1996 Chevrolet Corvette

Coupe

8 Cylinder 5.7 Liter

Manual

1G1YY225XT5108500

Gasoline

Air Conditioning

Selling this to buy a bass boat so I can take my kids fishing. Would consider taking one in trade or doing a straight across trade. I won't even consider any offer for less than the minimum bid so please don't send me any. Vehcile is for sale locally and I reserve the right to pull this listing at anytime so don't wait until the last minute to bid. If the auction has a bid on it I will let the listing run it's course. Vette was bone stock when I purchased it in 2000. Motor work was done in 2002 and the rest of the car parts were added between 2002 & 2006. I haven't driven it much in the last 4 years. We had kids and that somewhat killed the two seater car market for me. I start her every few weeks to get the fluids going and occasionally drive it around for a few miles but in the last 4 years it hasn’t seen 1000 miles. Motor has about 6000 miles on it. The vehicle itself has 64,800. It’s a very nice car but it’s not perfect, if you look hard enough you’ll find a rock chip here and maybe a light scratch in the paint somewhere else. The paint is original, not a repaint. The interior and exterior are in excellent condition. Both seats are power and the leather on them is in very good condition. No cracks in the dash or other plastic. Interior is very clean. Everything inside works as it should, radio, windows, locks etc....Roof is fiberglass, not lexan and it only comes with one top. This car has spent it's life since 2000 parked inside, never stored outside so all of the plastic, door trim, dash trim and so on have not been subjected to either the constant sun or freezing winter. Has Llyod front floor mats and the rear cargo mat. Interior is black and grey. Seats were originally grey but I liked the black better so I swapped them out for black 96 seats. I'm also including a $300 custom fit fleece indoor cover. The car is priced this low to sell it, not because anything is wrong with it. The economy is still poor and nobody is getting what they want or need from what they are selling, I'm no exception and I'd rather have a boat to take my kids fishing rather than this car sitting in the garage. I have an 08 Z06 also and just don't need two vettes. Title is clean and clear...Average trade in for a bone stock car is over $12,000, that's average trade in, not retail. I found a boat I want to buy but I need to sell this first. Other than sitting in the garage and collecting dust it's not doing me any good so I'm just going to take the hit on the car to get a boat. 1996 LT4 Corvette with a 6 speed ZF trans. Motor makes right at 395 rear wheel horsepower, I have the dyno sheet showing the 379 mark but cannot find the one showing 395, I lost it somewhere, motor will take 7K shifts all day long, it spins up faster than my 08 Z06. Motor makes max power right at 6500 rpms as can be seen by the included dyno sheet. Sounds like a dragster when running, has a cam lope from hell. Makes a little over 375 rear wheel torque. The entire interior was taken out (minus the dash) and I installed heat barrier material throughout the inside. It has a Doug Rippie 4 point cage installed too and the transverse leaf spring system was replaced with Carrera coil overs. I’ve listed all of the motor internals and other parts below. Other than the actual block and head machine work I’ve done everything to this car myself, nobody has touched her since 2000. I spent a ton of money on the motor, every part I used is top of the line, no junk and no short cuts….Block was bored .30 over and is now a 355. I kept the stock crank and stock rods but had both gone over with a fine tooth comb. Car has never been raced on any track so it has not been abused in any way. All LT4 Corvette intakes were originally red, I had this one painted black when the port/polish work was done. GTP stage II head work with cnc ported chambers. Heads are the original LT4 heads 2.02/1.58 stainless steel swirled Ferrea valves 3/8” screw in studs were used instead of the factory press ins. Also uses Comp cams guide plates for the pushrods which are now standard length Comp Cams chrome moly 5/16” rods Comp Cams triple valve springs with Comp keepers, locks and retainers Comp Cams hydraulic roller lifters Comp Cams Pro Magnum SS full floating needle bearing 1:6 ratio rockers Cam is a Comp Cams roller with .544/.577 lift on a 114 lobe center. Total lift is right at .595.. Original LT4 intake was ported and polished to match the cylinder heads, gaskets were also port matched. Intake was originally red as were all Lt4 intakes, I painted it black and polished the top GM Performance heavy duty timing chain and gears TPIS 58mm billet throttle body TPIS 1 ¾” full length ceramic coated headers TPIS/FlowMaster 3" “RACE” exhaust system TPIS 8mm wires Accell adjustable fuel pressure regulator ARP “WaveLock” bolts used throughout the motor TRW forged pistons, motor is 11:1 compression and must use premium fuel B&M short throw shifter GM Grand Sport calipers with Baer Eradispeed 14”crossdrilled/slotted rotors up front & 12.9” in the rear Factory GM Grand Sport black A mold wheels (not clones or knockoffs) 17x11 on the rear and 17x9.5 on the front. She has 315/35/17 Michelin Pilot sports on the rear and 275/40/17 on the front. Tires have maybe 2000 miles on them (maybe). Went with the GS wheels because of thier offset, they do not stock out of the fenders like ZR1 wheels would on the later model cars.... Carrera fully adjustable coil over suspension. She sticks to the ground better than my Z06. The transverse leaf spring system was removed. A/O Engineering Ram air plate Ported MAF housing Callaway shift knob 11 quart Canton road race oil pan Autometer air/fuel meter, boost/vacuum meter and shift light Cats have been removed. Has 02 sims in place of the 02 sensors. No wiring was cut and it can easliy be returned to factory but if you live in an area with tough emission laws you will have to install some high flow cats on her. All other emission parts such as the air pump and air hoses are there like they were from the factory. Headers have provisions for the factory emission hoses. Tune was flashed by GTP racing in Texas. It's been 8 years since they did it so I do not have thier contact info. Depending on who or where this car ends up it would not kill it to have it dyno tuned. There is more power left in the car with a better tune. It runs great with no check engine lights so I never had it dyno tuned. Rear end gears are the factory 3:45s and like all manual transmission cars it has the Dana 44 rear end. Clutch, tranny, injectors and ignition are all stock. Everything on the car works including all the power accessories. If you run the A/C in stop and go traffic she will heat up on you, you can beat her to death with the A/C off in 110 degree weather and she won’t break the 200 mark but if you turn on the A/C she will get warm. Probably could use a bigger radiator. BCool makes a larger radiator for this car that is a direct drop in. The absolute only time she gets warm is in stop and go traffic when you run the A/C, it's not a thermostat problem, a fan problem or a car problem, she needs a bigger radiator to keep up with the heat coming off the condensor when the A/C is on. Without the A/C running she won't barely reach 200 no matter how hard you drive her or how hot it is. If you're driving down the highway with the A/C on it's not an issue, she will only warm up in stop and go traffic when the A/C is on. Front seal on the oil pan gasket leaks a few drops after driving her. Window rubber around the back glass front corner is starting to get a little worn. Keyless does work but FOB needs a new battery. Can't think of any other issues this car has. It is a very nice car but it's not a brand new car so please don't expect it to be. If you stay out of it she'll still get 20 mpgs on the highway. I spent at least $10K on the motor alone and I'm offering the car for less than what I spent on the motor. No accidents or damage to the car otherwise... I did manage to find the original owners manual for the car and it will be included... Here’s a youtube link so you can hear her run… http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kRSSwxS1Ols Payment will need to be received no later than 7 days after auctions end. Cash or cashiers checks will be the only forms of payment accepted. Cash will get you the title immedietly, cashiers checks will need to clear before I hand over the title. I can store the car as long as you need me to provided it's been paid for within the required timeframe. I will not ship or deliver but will work with any shipper of your choosing. I've had good luck using www.uship.com for shipping vehicles....