2001 Honda S2000

Convertible

2.0L

Manual

JHMAP11401T004930

Clear

Gasoline

Well, I never thought this day would come, but I am putting my precious up for sale. I have owned this car for over 7 years and never planned on getting rid of it. However, my wife and I just had our first child and apparently children are expensive and people judge you for shoving a carseat into your two seat convertible sports car (no I did not actually do this). The Good: · The car is 90% stock and unmolested. It's not a show car by any means, but it is mechanically sound and well maintained. · Very strong running engine and smooth shifting transmission. The car has never left me stranded and I would trust it in a heartbeat to take me across the country or wherever. · Well maintained. I’m anal about my vehicles and have ran Amsoil everything. Oil, transmission fluid, and differential fluid. Oil done every 3 – 5k, tranny and diff done approximately every 12k. I have the owner’s manual for the car which has the first 75k miles of oil changes documented within it, citing use of mobil1 full synthetic. The previous two owners were friends and I know they also ran mobil 1 synthetic. I have alternated between Honda OEM oil filters and Amsoil’s Absolute Efficiency 15k mile filters (still changed with every oil change). · Wheels: I bought them from a guy who bought an S2000 in 2000 to turn it into a race car. He was on a waiting list for the car and bought parts and new wheels while waiting for the car. When he got it he drove it home and immediately pulled the wheels off of it and put them in storage. They are immaculate and have less than 5k miles on them. · Valve train: If you research AP1 (first generation with 9k redline engine) S2000’s, a prevalent occurrence is for the valve spring retainers to crack. This eventually results in dropping a valve into your engine cylinder and destroying it. I have replaced the stock retainers with the safe AP2 OEM retainers / keepers. While I was performing this upgrade I also installed a set of Brian Crower Stage 2 NA cams. They really livened up the low end torque and help the car pull all the way to 9k. I have put 30k miles on the car since installation with no issues, and also verify / adjust valve clearance every other oil change to ensure everything is good. They are very mild cams and do not require upgraded valve springs / retainers or a tune, although I have heard you can pull noticeably more HP out of them with a real tune and 70mm exhaust. ·Another common issue with the S2000’s is for the timing chain tensioners to wear out and allow slack in the timing chain. I just rebuilt this one within the last 2000 miles and the car shows no sign of the tell-tale engine chatter. Ignition coils were replaced with Honda OEM AP2 coils at 117k miles. · Clutch, flywheel, pressure plate, throwout bearing, master cylinder, and slave cylinder were replaced at 98k miles. The clutch is an Exedy OEM replacement, and the flywheel is a Fidanza 8lb aluminum work of art. The flywheel allows the engine to rev like a sports bike and makes it super easy to rev match on downshifts. · All four brake calipers were replaced at 114k miles with OEM equipment from a wrecked S2000 with 55k on the odometer. ·Clutch and brake fluid has been flushed and replaced every 12 to 20k miles with Honda brake fluid. ·Suspension is OEM Honda off of a 2005 S2000. It had 25k miles on it when I purchased and is in the neighborhood of 35k now. · K&N Intake with Amsoil air filter and pre-filter· New tires on rear, only 8k or so on front tires. Car was just aligned within last 500 miles. S2000 Oil Consumption: It is wells known in the S2000 community that these cars burn oil. This car is for the most part an exception to that. It's not perfect, but when changing the oil at 3000 miles I do not have to add any within that time frame. If I take the oil to 5000 miles, I usually end up having to add half a quart between the 3000 and 5000 mark. My theory on these engines burning oil is people not breaking them in correctly and laying into the 9k redline before the engine was ready for it. · Comes with extras at Buy it Now Price: Second set of AP1 wheels, pair of front AP2V1 wheels with old Dunlop star specs, a test pipe, extra set of ignition coils, extra clutch fork / OEM throwout bearing (25k miles on it), fitted car cover, Honda service manuals, second set of Honda OEM struts / springs from a 2002 with 37k miles, and other stuff I can’t think of off the top of my head. Will also come with a set of Buddy Club N+ coilovers that need to be rebuilt / revalved. I contacted Buddy Club in California a year or so back and they quoted the rebuild price, which was significantly less than buying new. If there are some specific things you really want, we can probably work something out at the auction price. The Bad: · Exterior cosmetic issues: clear coat has started to peel on front passenger fender and on the driver’s side door below the window. There is a scratch on the front bumper, a scuff on the rear bumper behind the driver’s side rear wheel, and small rust spots next to the trunk lid on each side. The rust has been there since I bought the car 7 years ago and has not appeared to grow. It is easily accessible for repair. · The soft top is on its way out and will need to be replaced in the near future for all weather driving. It stays in the garage whenever it rains so I haven't had any trouble with it. The pictures show an Alpine head unit which will not come with the car as the stock equipment will be reinstalled. Disclaimer: I'm just a guy who is reluctantly selling his car. Where I do have complete faith in its mechanical soundness, there is no warranty provided or implied. This car is also listed locally. I reserve the right to end the auction at any time.