1967 Chevrolet El Camino

malibu custom pick-up

396 big block

Manual

Clear

I'll do my best to include as many details as I can- First, this car has always been in good condition. It was not something dragged in from a cow pasture and restored. I have a very reasonable reserve judging from what similar cars are selling for.The car has a non original motor , but it is a desirable year motor, all new- stock proper built--- not a smog motor. Also This is an original big block- 4 speed-- 12 bolt car. All of the original tell tale signs are there. 136 vin, for malibu custom V8--- proper 3/8 fuel line---rear differential control arm brace's---Proper big block only motor frame brackets---unique right side front brake routing--- original floor manual trans hump. See the pictures. Basic rundown of factory options are--396 big block with 4 speed muncie m20 and hd 12 bolt positraction 3.31 diff ---power steering--- power disc brakes----Malibu package with factory gauges---dash trim---deluxe door panels----stainless 2 way rear view mirror---bucket seats-no console---( 1966 seat upholstery, but very well done) -- corvette sport sim wood steering wheel--perfect condition, not a reproduction. . The previous owner spent quite a bit on the motor- which is basically perfect and runs strong and proper. He also did a lot of suspension-steering and brake work. Very tight steering- drives straight and true. Fresh suspention bushings- no wear on ball joints ect. Fresh brakes all around. I've gone through and verified everything he did and believe his work was done properly. This was about 5 years and 35 hundred miles ago.This is my hobby car and I usually only concentrate on one car at a time. I did this for the fun of it, not to turn over for a quick buck. I've been in the car and vintage motorcycle hobby for over 40 years. I've had this one for about 3 years now. This car is completely reliable and is a great every day driver, although I have not been driving it since the new paint this summer (expired plates). The motor is not original to the car, however it is a 1969 chevelle 325 hp big block. Not built as a radical race motor but to be a reliable long lived high performance driver---complete rebuild -new .30 over hyperutectic pistons, cam- bearings-valves, springs ect ect. new aluminum radiator, hoses, belts ect.---The transmission is a muncie M20 4 speed with a hurst competition plus shifter with muncie reverse lockout shift handle conversion-- cleaned and adjusted properly. I replaced the bell housing-11" clutch-pressure plate and flywheel with new a few hundred miles ago. I completely rebuilt the 12 bolt differential at the same time- New Yukon gear posi carrier-eaton type. Bearings-- 3.31 gears--wheel bearings and seals control arm bushings and new axles. Probably overkill on my part but it is a Very nice rear differential. The motor is a JA code 1969 chevelle-manual transmission, as per code description. Block number-3955272. Long water pump, complete 1969 long accessory pulley's ps pump, alt, brackets ect. Stock round port heads. has hardened valve seats--new valve train-- like most everything else new and good quality. Runs well on middle grade gas with no detonation. This motor is basically a stock rebuild with a solid lifter cam. It has excellent torque, even at low rpm. It has approximately 35 hundred miles on it as of this date. Much less on the clutch. ( 60 miles). Again, no issues at all. I have a very large stack of receipts to show most things. The undercarriage ( floors- frame- brackets -exhaust- ect ) is not an over restored trailer queen- It is in honest, impressively clean survivor condition the way it came from the factory. The car spent most of its time in eastern Oregon- the desert region--very dry. The wiring all looks very good,not cobbled or modified. Every thing works as it should with the recent exception of the radio which I have reason to believe is a bad speaker. Has a new windshield wiper motor. I disassembled, stripped and painted the car this spring and summer over the course of about 6 months plus 3 months as a start last year. Iv'e been over every part of this car and it is as solid and rust free as I've seen-- including the hidden recesses most people never see. The doors-- fenders---hood--- tailgate and shell and jambs were all painted separately. I used 2k epoxy primer over bare steel and a 2k high build primer over that-- then block sanded. The body was pretty straight to begin with with no signs of any prior accident, just 5 minor side scrapes that I straightened very well before using filler. The filler is less than 1/8 at the most and only on about 5 relatively small (5-8 " and skim coat elsewhere. I'm very careful with proper substrate prep as I don't like doing it twice. The glass-- front and rear is resealed. The window channels were solid and I used urithane sealer. All of the weatherstripping is new and good quality. The door hinges are rebuilt--bushings and pins.--- also replaced the carpet with sound deadner insulation similar to dyna mat. Also new firewall insulation pad. --- The floors are perfectly solid and sealed. The smugglers box in bed is perfect inside-- meaning no rust as is the entire bed area.----New headliner---New door panels---The hood--fenders door and tailgate have no filler other than a light skim coat for a few very shallow parking lot dings. The quarters in front of and behind the wheel house had the scrapes and very small rust holes (4 ) that I properly cleaned straightened acid etched and repaired with metal patch and light filler and well sealed inside and out. I'm confident the repair will last. The majority of the trim-moldings ect are new and everything is either new or very nice driver condition. I'm not at all into car shows, but I believe this one would do pretty well. To sum it all up--the car drives strong and solid, the way it should. I basically replaced everything that I thought was worn or marginal. I'm not going to try to get a crazy price as I've seen with some, but I want a fair, reasonable amount. I 'm very proud of the car and there really are not many negatives. Sorry about the long winded rambling -- but hopefully I've given enough info to help with your decision If you have any question that I have not covered here, please send me a contact number and a time to call. I'll do my best to answer you. Please only bid on this if you intend to buy it. Low numbers please contact me first before bidding. I try very hard to be reasonable and will work with the buyer within reason, but shipping is the buyers responsibility- again I will be here for any arrangements you make. The car is not being driven , just run and will be in the same condition as I've represented here. Thanks, Mike. On Sep-22-15 at 11:12:23 PDT, seller added the following information: A little additional info. As I did say in the add, , please leave a contact number and convenient time for me to call you. I will not give out my vin. number or phone over email for safety reasons. A good idea to do this before bidding if you are not sure you want the car. I want anyone looking at the car to have as much info as I can give, just as I would want if I were buying. Please do not bid unless you are sure you want it and will buy it. I will be glad to fully answer your questions over the phone or in person if you are local, but not over email. I'm retired now and have some free time. I hope this is ok with everyone. I speak person to person, not texts or email. Thanks, Mike.