1965 Ford Mustang

coupe U/K

4.7L 4727CC 289Cu. In. V8 GAS OHV Naturally Aspira

Automatic

5MEX07c107670

Clear

GAS

CAR DOES NOT RUN!!!!! Local pick up only. buyer will need a flatbed or trailer to haul away. The car has a clear Texas title in my name. Up for auction is a 1965 Mustang coupe with a 289 V8 and automatic transmission. I'll start by stating the obvious..the car is in rough shape. It's not really as bad as it looks and someone with the time and knowledge could make this car awesome again. This car is not the typical Mustang you see all the time. What makes this car rare and interesting is that it is one the the rare "Mexican" built Mustangs that Ford produced at its assembly plant in Mexico City. Little is known about these cars. There have been several articles written over the years, but mostly the Mexican built cars remain a mystery. Actual production numbers are unknown, but the number is believed to be very low. The cars were mostly identical to the mustangs produced in the U.S., except for some minor details. The main thing was the engine blocks. The blocks could be bored out larger than normal ford blocks, so racers loved getting a hold of these. UNFORTUNATELY...this car does not have the original engine. The 289 blew up my senior year of high school and was replaced with a 289 from a different mustang. Another difference is the speedometer...it is in kilometers per hour instead of miles per hour. Instead of 120 on the speedo, this car has 200 on it. 120 mph is equal to 200 kph. The original Mexico plant data plate is still on the drivers side door (see picture) South of the border mustangs was a great source for info on the Mexican mustangs, but the site has been down recently. If you want more info, try doing a google search for Mexican mustangs or look on some of the mustang forums on the web. now for the gory details.... this car was my everyday driver in high school and the first part of college. The wiring started going bad around the same time i bought a new Mustang GT....so the 65 was pushed to the side and was neglected. The car ended up sitting in the back yard for about 10 years. Needless to say, time and critters werent kind to her. The car was sold to a good friend and he had plans for a total rebuild. After sitting in his garage for 7 years with minimal work done, she ended up back in my hands. Thats where she stands today. With a growing family, i just dont have the time or garage space to do much with her. I'm hoping someone out there does. ENGINE THIS IS NOT THE ORIGINAL ENGINE! the original was a 289 v8 2 barrel that blew up years ago. The current engine is a 289 v8 with 4 barrel carb that was taken out of another mustang and rebuilt years ago. the engine is probably the best thing on the car. the engine was taken out and gone through. it had a rebuilt holly 4 barrel and brand new Tri-Y Headers installed. The alternator is also new. the engine was redone and was started and running before being placed back in the car recently. the power steering pump appears in good condition, but i cant say for sure if it is working. It is not currently installed. the car needs a new radiator and hoses.I will send the original with the car, but its shot. Thermostat needs replacing. (I might have bought a new one, and if so, it will come in the box full of extra parts) TRANSMISSION the transmission is the original that car with the car. It is a C-4 and according to the VIN came with 2:73 gears. when putting the engine back in the car, we noticed the trans had a small crack on the case. The transmission was taken to a local Gene Brown Transmission shop here about 3 months ago and the cracked case was replaced and the transmission was totally rebuilt. So the trans is just like new and ready to be installed back in the car. The shifter is working, but not in the best shape. Th e original transmission cooler hoses are on the engine, but i would go ahead and buy new ones WIRING The car had most of its wiring destroyed while it was sitting all those years. The car has a brand new Mustang specific painless wiring harness installed. This cost $1000 and is well worth it. New fuse box and fuses. Most of the wires have been connected. Lights, electrical, inside wiring, etc have all been connected. I cant remember if wiper motor wires have been connected or not.Most of the wires that go to the engine components have not been connected, but have been run through firewall to the areas where they will go. The wiring harness is great. Every wire has on it what it is and where it connects to. All you have to do is look and it tells you where it goes to. I'd say 85% of wires are connected. After installing, all you will need to do is to bind wires together and secure them under the dash. BODY the body is in fairly rough shape with some rust damage. the hood is in ok shape, with a few small dents that bondo would take car of. Overall, the car has minor surface rust. Most of it is from a recent rain we had here and can be lightly sanded off with sandpaper or steel wool. The passenger side door and front fender are the worst spots on the outside of the car where rust ate most of the way through (see pictures for close up of damage). The floor pans are going to need to be replaced. The passenger side front floor pan has a large hole all the way through. Water coming in through the cowl box and sitting caused it to rust all the way through and most of it was cut out (see pictures). The driver side is almost as bad, but only had several pin holes rusted through to where you could see daylight coming through. The top of the car is solid, but has some pitting on the lower sides. Other cars I've seen with this were fixed with some bondo and sanding. The car originally came with a black vinyl top that was replaced in the late 80's, but has since come all the way off.The rear quarter panels and trunk are in pretty good shape. The underside of the car has some rust. The underside of the floor panels are rusted just like the top side. The car has been coated with a chemical rust stopper that stops the spread of rust and hardens the existing rust so it does not continue to spread or break off. The frame is in decent shape. The inside of the trunk could use some sanding and painting, but is in good condition. The gas tank and fuel sending unit are new. They are installed, but the gas tank is not bolted in yet. There are several cracked pieces around the headlight buckets and around the pony corral. These can be replace from any mustang parts dealer for fairly cheap. The cowl vents between the hood and windshield have been partially filled in with bondo. i think the plan was to fill them and sand them smooth before painting. Ive seen them filled like this or a thin piece of metal welded over them for a smooth look. you can go either route or replace them with an original cowl. GLASS THE CAR HAS NO FRONT WINDSHIELD! The car has no front windshield. It met with some clumsy fingers when being removed and was cracked. The side glass and back glass are all in good shape. The driver side window has a problem rolling up because it needs 2 new rollers and clips. The window roller attaches to the window regulator and allows the glass to glide on the roller. These can be bought from mustang parts dealers for $2 a pair. The door panels are off the inside door and are no good. This at least gives easy access to install new window rollers. The rubber/ gaskets around the windows probably need to be replaced. that arent bad, but could stand to look better. The gasket around the back window is dried out and cracked and will not keep water out just from the looks of it, so it will need to be replaced. BRAKES I have no idea about the brakes. One of the back brakes was locked up and was removed so the car would roll. It is still off, but i will send it with the car. The other brakes appear ok, but have some rust. I would replace them before driving on the street. ODDS AND ENDS All trim, badges and mirrors will come with the car The original Rally Pac with the clock and tach will come with the car. it was working last i checked. I have no idea of the actual mileage. the reading is 88000, but that is in kilometers I'm trying to list everything that I can think of, but theres a chance I forget something. The center console is broken and cracked and will need to be replace. The carpet is mostly gone. The dash pad is gone. There is a hole cut in the dash where a cd player use to be. All of the windshield trim comes with the car. It is in ok shape, with small rust spots in some areas. The lower side trim will come with the car. It has several small dents, but otherwise are ok. The previous owner did some custom painting on the inside of the car. A name is painted on the dash and some artwork is painted on the headliner and rear side area. the instrument panel has a checkerboard pattern painted around it. these can all be fixed with a little black spray paint. Wheels are rusty and tires are 20 years old and cracked. im surprised the hold what little air they do. The actuator arm was leaking and probably needs replacing To be safe, i would replace the brake and fuel lines as i cant tell what they look like on the inside. Master cylinder needs to be replaced. I'd but the dual bowl that fits a 67 mustang and use the instructions for fitting to a 65. Starter use to work, but i'd replace it for a good one. I will send the exhaust pipes with the car. they will need to be cut down and the ends flared out to fit int he new tri-y headers. they come with thrush turbo glass packs on them, but one sounds hollow and the other sounds like its compacted with something on the inside when you tap them, so i'd replace them with something else. EXTRAS The car will come with some extras. Included will be a new rubber trunk mat and new 14 inch tire cover. power steering lowering bracket. This piece is for use when you instal tri-y headers. It is a bolt on piece that bolts to the frame and lowers the actuator arm so it clears the headers. Google and youtube will show easy ways to do this. a lot of small parts and bolts that were bought to start the job, but never gotten around to installing. *************************************** I know it sounds like a lot, but i wanted to be up front and for you to not have any surprises. Here is my list of repairs that i was going to do to get her on the road again... new floor pans new windshield and windshield clips for trim install transmission new brake and fuel lines new master cylinder new starter new brakes new wheels and tires new radiator new mufflers bondo, sanding and paint That's about it. It is a lot, but its well worth it. You could put some money into this car and then resell it. Just look at what restored mustangs are going for these days. Much less one that is this rare. PAYMENT Winning bidder must contact us within 24 hours of auction end, and make arrangements for payment at that time. A nonrefundable $500.00 deposit is due within 3 days. The remainder is due within 7 days of auction end. If no contact is made within 24 hours we reserve the right to re-list the vehicle, sell it to the next high bidder, or sell it otherwise. I will accept a bank cashiers check or have the funds wired directly to my bank account. SHIPPING Local pick up only. Car does not run, so buyer will need a trailer or flatbed to haul car away. If you can find a car shipping company that will haul a non-working car on a flatbed, then that would work as well. i will be available for buyer or shipper to pick up. please have you shipping in order before you buy. car does not have a windshield, so it will be exposed to the elements during shipping. I will include a heavy duty tarp and car cover on the car to help. car will need to be picked up within 12 days of auction end. if this is a problem, let me know before you bid and we can work something out. AS THIS IS A PROJECT CAR, PLEASE ASK ANY QUESTIONS BEFORE BIDDING. I WILL BE GLAD TO ANSWER ANY QUESTION YOU HAVE TO THE BEST OF MY KNOWLEDGE.