1980 Honda Accord

Hatchback

4 - Cyl.

Manual

SME2079414

Gasoline

**VERY IMPORTANT - Due to my schedule, this transaction must be completed by 4pm on Wed. 22 Feb. 2012. No exceptions - thanks for understanding.** 1980 Honda Accord Hatchback; >$4k in recent service! Runs, but no AC and needs engine work This car is located in Tucson AZ. Buyer will need to come here to get the car. **Please feel free to call (480) 381-1495 if you would like to make an appointment to see the car. That phone has voicemail.** The car runs but will not pass Tucson (Pima County) emissions due to engine problems. This car did not come with factory air conditioning, as it was originally in Northern California. And I never bothered with an aftermarket kit, so it still has no AC. It is a one-family car. My aunt in California bought it new, and sold it to me in April 1997. It has been in Arizona since then. FOR MANY MORE DETAILED PHOTOS, SEE MY FLICKR PAGE: http://www.flickr.com/photos/76279295@N05/sets/72157629252532841/ I. BASIC DATA Transmission: 5-speed manual Engine: 1.8L Model: “3-door” Hatchback; It is a true 1980 model, based on the date on the sticker in the driver side door indicating a completion date of Feb. 1980 (so this month it turns 32!) Mileage: 144,959 Tires: It has three older tires that are still in fairly good shape, and one newer one that still has warranty. It has a full-size spare and the OEM jack that fits in the wheel well (forgot to get photo of the wheel well). Battery: Interstate MT-51, 75-month, installed 2009-08, at 349000 mi. ($103) Gas Mileage: Until the engine problems, this car consistently got 30+ mpg. Extras: I will include the original Honda service manual for this year and model; a good Haynes service manual; a Penncraft spark plug socket and an oil filter socket, as well as a number of extra parts that would now be very difficult if not impossible to find (listed below and shown in Flickr photos). Repairs and Service: I have receipts for all repairs and parts for my phase of ownership (roughly the most recent 88,000 miles). In the past 3 years alone (about 15,000 miles), I have put over $4,000 into non-routine maintenance for this car. That represents service and repairs for things that can be expected to go wrong with this many miles on a car. I need to sell this car now due to changes in my financial situation. I know I will lose money on this, obviously. I have enjoyed this car for nearly 15 years now. But I need money more than the car at this point, and so there is a low reserve price. HOWEVER, I tried to put it above what I could get to just scrap the car. I would really like to see the car go to someone who likes it and wants to keep it going. Many parts are already renewed. So many hours of service have been done – it just would seem a waste to crush it - which is what Blue Book basically says should be done. II. DETAILS (‘The Good, The Bad, and The Ugly’) A. Negatives (‘The Bad’ and/or ‘Ugly’) 1. Engine The registration is lapsed because the car fails emissions because it puts out too much hydrocarbon, some smoke comes out of the tailpipe. Inspection: A mechanic inspected the car recently and diagnosed that engine work is needed, but I did not bother incurring the cost of having tests (e.g., compression) done to determine the extent of work needed. The car is not a ‘lemon’ – but it was used mostly for short trips by both owners, and short trips are very hard on an engine. 2. Body and Exterior It has some body damage, as best shown in the Flilckr photos. This includes the left front fender, which I was told is not too much work to repair, but also dents in both left and right rear corners. The one in the left rear corner is not too bad; the right rear is somewhat worse. There is some surface rust where the dents are, as well as miscellaneous chips in the paint. The logo trim that says “Accord” is missing from the bottom of the hatch lid. This could be replaced with a logo from a newer Accord, which would be close to the original. All of this is shown in the Flickr photos. 3. Wheels There are only three of the four outer chrome rings that go on the rims. 4. Interior The plastic housing for the rear dome light is broken. This part was impossible to find when I was going to junk yards 7 or so years ago. I saved the pieces, but never went to the trouble of trying to glue them together. Seats: The upholstery is still really good, EXCEPT for the driver seat, which I generally kept covered to prevent worsening of the cracking. See Flickr photos. There is a crack in the housing of one of the lap seat belts in the back seat See Flickr photos. It does not affect functionality. The carpet is somewhat worn in the obvious areas. 5. Glass The glass is generally in great shape, except the windshield has some pitting, and one chip that was too large to repair (see Flickr). I had it sealed anyway so it should not spread. 6. AC Again, there is NO AC, and it never had it. B. Positives (‘The Good’) Whenever repairs were needed, I always went to reputable shops and insisted on OEM parts, and if unavailable, the highest quality aftermarket parts. Most notably in the past ten years, a valve job was done, and the following have been replaced: brake master cylinder and all slave cylinders; clutch master cylinder; alternator (LIFETIME WARRANTY) and voltage regulator; both front axles; front strut rod bushings; distributor; water pump; and fuel pump. Also, bearings were replaced and/or repacked, and the starter was rebuilt. These are listed in detail below. This car does not leak more than about one drop of fluid per month! That is a rarity for a user car this old. The car never leaked oil, at least as far back 1997, until 2009, when it started leaking slightly after the valve job; but replacing the oil cooler hoses and some seals seems to have done the trick. 1. Body and Exterior The body damage can be repaired, and anticipating having that done eventually, I acquired backup sets of light lens assemblies, parts I knew would become really difficult to find. The areas where the dents are most pronounced have some surface rust, but this car was originally in northern California, and has been in Arizona since 1997, and has been kept in covered carports its entire life; so there is no significant rust. Chrome: The has chrome trim and bumpers, and it is in good condition, with some minor denting in a couple spots. 2. Electrical Combo switch: The combination switch (unit with lever to left of steering wheel that has turn signal and headlight switches in it) went bad, and recognizing that it would be difficult to repair, I bought three of them, installing one, and saving two as backups. The current one has been trouble-free. 3. Interior The steering wheel has no cracking, and the dash has almost no cracking!! There is the beginning of tiny hairline cracks by the clock, but it is barely visible. There is a small crack in the plastic housing for the dash speaker grill inset in front of the clock. Interior plastic in this condition is quite rare in a Japanese car from this era. The driver side seat belt was replaced in 2000. I went to a Honda dealer in Phoenix, and it was fully covered by warranty. At more than twenty years old at that time, for certain that would be the last warranty repair on this car! They told me it was the last driver side one available in the whole country for this car. It is a Honda part, but it does not quite match the original belt on the passenger side. I have an extra rear-view mirror. I got one to replace the original, but kept the old one as a user. To sell the car, the better one is installed. Likewise, the aerial was broken and I replaced it; kept the old one as a user, but the newer one is installed currently. Amazingly, the hatch struts, which I believe are original, still work, though sometimes the hatch will not stay up if the car is jostled. 4. Audio System I have the original radio, and as far as I know it still works, along with its single dash-mounted speaker. But that radio is not connected now because in about 2000, I had a nice Kenwood cassette deck stereo installed. I did not want to cut up the door panels, so put the speakers (Kenwood 120 watts) in boxes that sit in the back and can be moved around. The system cost nearly $300 new, and still works great, though two of the six delicate station preset buttons are not working due to having been bumped by my “Club” security lock. That just means fewer presets, but has no impact on overall performance of the stereo, which still sounds great. I do not know how well it would play cassettes, as I have only used an adapter in the deck to play CDs from my portable CD player. III. SERVICE LOG (Selective) For more detail, the following is a selective list of service for this car, including most of the most recent/current parts and repairs. I have a more complete list, and of course, receipts for all work done in shops, and receipts for parts I installed myself (“DIY”). DATE MILEAGE SERVICE and/or PARTS COST PERFORMED BY or PURCHASED AT 2011-05 144915 Valves Adjusted and Spark Plugs replaced $0 warranty - Budget Automotive, Tucson 2011-05 [n/a] Radiator Rod Out and repair $103 Ariz. Radiator & Muffler, South Tucson 2010-10 142374 one Falken Sincera tire, 65,000 mi. warranty, bal. $71 Discount Tire, Oracle Rd., Tucson 2010-10 [n/a] Basic Tune Up (cap, rotor, plug wires) (plugs 2010-09) $135 Budget Automotive, Tucson 2010-10 [n/a] Exhaust system checked and pipe replaced $30 Exhaust Works, Tucson 2010-09 142117 Oil Cooler Lines & Camshaft Seals; Sp.Plugs repl. $111 Budget Automotive, Tucson 2010-09 141745 Diagnostics + Fuel Pump replaced (new) $439 Anderson General, Flagstaff 2010-09 141460 Front Strut Rod Bushings repl. & aligned + caster kit $326 Budget Automotive, Tucson 2010-07 [n/a] Diagnostics + Wiring Repair for electrical short $112 Budget Automotive, Tucson 2010-07 [n/a] Electrical system check; short repaired $118 Budget Automotive, Tucson 2010-06 140470 both AXLES replaced (rebuilds) $400 Budget Automotive, Tucson 2010-04 139249 Control Arm replaced (new) $175 Budget Automotive, Tucson 2010-03 138536 Bearings front & rear; replaced and/or repacked $653 Budget Automotive, Tucson 2009-10 136168 Valve Job $1,513 Budget Automotive, Tucson 2009-08 139019 Voltage Regulator replaced (new) $25 DIY / AutoZone, Phoenix 2008-06 133216 Emissions Repairs - incl. catalytic converter installed; etc... $150 Budget Autom.., 2770 N Oracle 2008-06 133216 Carburetor Float Kit installed $78 Budget Automotive, Tucson 2008-02 [n/a] REPLACE B-PIPE (old one was cracked) $67 Exhaust Works, 275 E Ft Lowell 2007-11 131188 REPLACE LOWER LEFT BALL JOINT $258 Precision, 3570 E Grant, Tuc 2007-06 128107 DISTRIBUTOR - replaced; gasket; o-ring; rotor $402 Precision, 3570 E Grant, Tuc 2007-05 127788 REMOVE TOP OF CARB AND REINSTALL MAIN JET $164 Precision, 3570 E Grant, Tuc 2006-08 [n/a] Alternator [LIFETIME WARRANTY!! - latest repl. in 2010] $33 DIY / Checker (O’Reilly) Auto Parts, Phx. 2006-03 120913 a. TIMING BELT - replaced $26 AZ Auto Doctor, 7144 S Priest 2006-03 120913 b. WATER PUMP - replaced $40 AZ Auto Doctor, 7144 S Priest 2006-03 120913 c. ALTERNATOR BELT - replaced $10 AZ Auto Doctor, 7144 S Priest 2006-03 120913 d. labor for a through c $160 AZ Auto Doctor, 7144 S Priest 2005-06 118388 HEATER HOSE ('Bypass Inlet) - replaced $105 Precision, 3570 E Grant, Tuc 2005-04 [n/a] ANTENNA (w/ hardware) $15 DIY / Honda Auto Salv. 4039 E Winslw 2005-04 [n/a] VISORS (w/ hardware) (2 at $15 each) $30 DIY / Honda Auto Salv. 4039 E Winslw 2004-10 116330 two TIRES 'Mohave R/S W' w/ 40,000 mi. warranty $60 Discount Tire Co., 3701 E Sp. 2004-06 115442 Clutch Master Cylinder and Slave Cylinder - replace $386 Precision, 3570 E Grant, Tuc 2004-06 115405 two tires, 40,000 mi. warranty, balance $44 Discount Tire, Speedway, Tucson 2004-03 113175 a. Brakes - replace rear shoes, adj. shoes & Parking Brake $45 Precision, 3570 E Grant, Tuc 2004-03 113175 b. WHEEL CYLINDER - replace rt rear; bleed system, etc. $81 Precision, 3570 E Grant, Tuc 2004-03 113175 c. labor for a and b $138 Precision, 3570 E Grant, Tuc 2004-02 113043 Brakes: replace MASTER CYLINDER; bleed system, etc. $280 Precision, 3570 E Grant, Tuc 2003-08 [n/a] COMBINATION SWITCH $15 DIY / AA Pull Your Part, 4570 E Irv… 2003-08 [n/a] COMBINATION SWITCHES (2) $30 DIY / AA Pull Your Part, 4570 E Irv… 2002-01 99651 a. Distributor Vacuum Advance - repl ('Control, Vacuum') $73 Precision, 3570 E Grant, Tuc 2002-01 99651 b. VALVE COVER GASKET - repl (also washer) $18 Precision, 3570 E Grant, Tuc 2002-01 99651 c. OIL FILLER CAP - replace $8 Precision, 3570 E Grant, Tuc 2002-01 99651 d. 'CONTACT SET' (Starter?) - replace $13 Precision, 3570 E Grant, Tuc 2002-01 99651 e. DISTRIBUTOR BUSHING - replace $15 Precision, 3570 E Grant, Tuc 2002-01 99651 f. 'PICK-UP MAGNET SET' - (starter?) - replace $25 Precision, 3570 E Grant, Tuc 2002-01 99651 g. labor for a through f $299 Precision, 3570 E Grant, Tuc 2000-05 90497 SAFETY BELT - repl driver Seat Belt Assembly (warranty) $0 Showcase Honda - Camelback 2000-04 90470 REPLACE BOTH LEFT CV BOOTS AND REPACK $112 Rick Hall's Auto Doctor, Tempe 2000-01 [n/a] SEALED BEAM (Headlight) $4 DIY / BAP Import Parts, 4501 N 7 St 1999-07 81674 a. CARBEURETOR REBUILD $441 Rick Hall's Auto Doctor, Tempe 1999-07 81674 b. DOOR LOCK SILENCERS: adjust lf ; replace rf $17 Rick Hall's Auto Doctor, Tempe 1999-03 [n/a] GRILL CHROME (trim on front grill) $21 DIY / Honda Auto Salv. 4039 E Winslw 1997-11 63968 a. CV BOOT - repl rf boot behind wheel $75 Econo Lube 'n' Tune, V.Bur/19Av 1997-08 61611 DOOR LOCK SILENCER - repl lf door lock silencer $25 Rick Hall's Auto Doctor, Tempe 1997-05 58690 THERMOSENSOR $34 Rick Hall's Auto Doctor, Tempe 1997-05 58690 WATER PUMP - repl $55 Rick Hall's Auto Doctor, Tempe 1997-05 [n/a] TAIL LIGHTS (entire assembly) - (2 at $25 each) $53 DIY / Honda Auto Salv. 4039 E Winslw 1996-01 57149 CLUTCH - repl pressure plate, disc, throw out $474 Walnut Creek Honda, W.C., CA