1970 Plymouth Barracuda

Coupe

8 - Cyl.

Manual

BH23G0B216589

Gasoline

Up for auction is my 1970 Plymouth Barracuda hardtop. This is originally a yellow, 318, 4-speed car. VIN: BH23G0... According to the 7th ed. Chrysler Production Code Book, it looks like there were 705 of these made. It seems like it had a vinyl top from the trim holes on the roof - however, I'm not sure. If it were an A93 code, there were 7 made. However, I do not have the original drive train. The cowl, door, and dash pad numbers all match. The radiator support has been replaced, but I have a piece of the original with the numbers stamped. I do not have the build sheet, and the previous owner is still searching for the fender tag. However, I do have a clean and clear title in hand. That being said, if you MUST have the matching numbers drivetrain, I can help you with that. I know where you can get an original 70’ 318 block (9-10-1969 stamp) and transmission (auto or 4 –speed). I just recently purchased this car with the intent of a full restoration. However, since then, I have found ANOTHER project that I’d rather work on. Isn’t that how it always goes?! Anyhow, I only have enough time, money, and energy for one. So unfortunately, the 70’ Barracuda has to go. History: The car was purchased from a guy who owned a body shop that was building the car for a customer. The entire floor was replaced with factory steel and it looks like they did a great job. The new OE panels still have the stickers on them. Talking with the previous owner, it sounds like the customer demanded the replacement – even though it probably could have just been patched. Anyway, when they removed the floor, the 4-speed tunnel was removed as well. 4-speed replacement tunnels are easy to come by, and I’ve got an automatic tunnel, including the auto console/shifter parts that go with the car. From the sounds of it, the guy was changing it over to an automatic, so he wasn’t worried about the 4-speed stuff. Overall, the car is pretty solid, but of course, it does have some rust here and there. The car does have some filler on the quarters, fenders, and doors. I’ve also seen some at the roof seam and Dutchman’s panel. Depending on your level of experience, some damage is repairable - while other parts may need replacement. Obviously, I'm giving you worst case scenario - I've seen much much worse. For an e-body, I'm pretty happy with how solid the car is. Anyway, the guy started media blasting the car; mostly from the front, back to about the front doors. There are some places that he media blasted other than that as well. There are some holes here and there – probably aggravated from the media blasting, but nothing too scary. The bare metal was temporarily primed for transport and storage. It's nothing fancy – just enough to try and protect the raw steel. A light scuff will reveal raw steel. So please don't think that car is ready for the paint booth. The good news is that at least you know what you are getting. The frame rails look great! The trunk is thin in a few spots and has a few holes – but isn’t too bad. The quarters need metalwork, patches, or replacement (depending on your expertise). In further detail, the front of the left quarter (drivers) has some filler and could probably use a patch. The rear of the driver’s quarter still has the original paint under the primer... and it looks pretty good from the underside. The passenger side quarter could use a patch on the rear portion of the quarter - it currently has filler on it. The passenger fender could use some metal work on the leading edge and the lower rear side (plan for a patch). The doors have some rust (and some of it looks to have been bead blasted, but they aren’t too bad. The seams look good as well. The inner and outers of the doors are solid. The trunk sills and rear window area also has some corrosion, but again, nothing beyond minor metal work. Mostly just a couple small holes here and there. The front left pillar has a hole (1-2 inches), and the lower right pillar (basically the cowl) has a hole from corrosion as well. Additionally, the right passenger pillar looks to have some holes possibly - masked with small amounts of filler. The grill is included and is in pretty good shape. There is one crack on the middle portion - very repairable. I was told it had a few cracks when I bought it...but I haven't found them yet. Please note - when I purchased the car, I was told the grill was complete. But when it showed up, it has two bezels for the left side; instead of one for each side. The front and rear bumpers are straight. The rear bumper looks pretty good overall, but could use re-chroming depending on the future of the car. Not bad overall. The front bumper, will also need rechroming (unless you intend to paint it body color). The previous owner sanded on it, and put filler on it – apparently in an attempt to blend the bumper with the front fascia. I have all the interior/exterior stainless, moldings, and window mechanisms for the car as well. The stainless is all there and in great condition. I do have the front and rear side glass – however, I do not have the windshield and rear glass. As far as the interior goes, I have everything for the interior except the cloth headliner (I do still have the hardware/bows/etc) the carpet, and door panels. The windows are manual. I have the bucket seats and console for the car, as well as the complete dash, dash pad, and instrument cluster/etc. The harness, all the knobs, brackets, and interior parts are all boxed up. It has an old-school 3-spoke style steering wheel in the pictures, but I have an original steering wheel that goes with it as well (and extra column/parts). The seats are vinyl and have not been recovered. The rear seat is in great shape, but the buckets have holes/tears. Stuff like the gauges, wiring harness, brackets, battery tray, heater, console brackets, radiator, fuel tank...all that kind of stuff is included as well. I've got a couple valences and rear pans that go with the car as well. Please ask your questions early and PRIOR to the auctions end. Give me an opportunity to give/get you the answers you deserve to make an informed decision. Also, keep in mind - I will tell you the worst case on everything; I'd rather have you walk away feeling like it's better than expected than the other way around. And I will not hide ANYTHING. So please, ASK! A lot of flaws could be hidden with some filler and a quickie paint job...but that's not my style. You can see the car as it REALLY is. Besides, most people are going to do a full restoration any way. I’m not looking to make a fortune; I’m just looking to get some money to use on another project. I’m not hurting for cash, and I don’t have time for tire kickers. The BUY IT NOW is the bottom dollar. I get a lot of questions about that. I am relisting the car with the lowest price I will take. Any less, and the car doesn't leave my garage. I certainly don't mean to be rude, but I want to be clear about that. It will save us both time. You are welcome to schedule a visit to look at the car in person. I will paint you an honest picture right from the get-go; so please keep that in mind. I know what it is…and I know what it isn’t. The car is sold as-is, where is. I don't deliver. I would be happy to help you load the car - but I won't do the legwork on shipping. The car and title WILL NOT leave my home until full payment has been received and has cleared. No exceptions. Non-refundable $500 Deposit is due within 72 hours. Full payment due prior to vehicle pickup. I can store/hold the car for 2 weeks (if paid for) - unless we've agreed otherwise. The car is for sale locally for the BUY IT NOW price, so I reserve the right to end the auction early at any time, should someone decide to buy the car. Bidders with feedback less than 10 must contact me prior to bidding, or risk having your bid cancelled. Non-paying buyers, or buyers unable to produce the funds will receive negative feedback. Thanks for looking, good luck, and happy bidding.