1992 Dodge Other Pickups

D350 Pickup truck

6 - Cyl.

Manual

1B6ME36CXNS598460

Diesel

Normal 0 false false false EN-US X-NONE X-NONE MicrosoftInternetExplorer4 1992 Dodge D350, 5.9 Cummins, 5 Speed, DRW, ONE OWNER THIS ITEM IS BEING RELISTED DUE TO A NON PAYING BIDDER...WITH ZERO FEEDBACK. IF YOU HAVE ZERO OR NEGATIVE FEEDBACK, YOU MUST CONTACT ME BEFORE BIDDING OR I WILL REMOVE YOUR BID! This truck has been family owned since new. Truck was bought new as a 165” Cab and Chassis in 1992 with a 12’ rack body. Truck was used as a delivery vehicle for a family business driving between CT and Drummondville, PQ, Canada and a few other routes between CT, Albany, NY and Cape Cod. Use was exclusively highway. Within 6 months of purchase, the front springs were upgraded to heavier spec units, hence the higher than typical front ride height for a RWD Dodge CTD. I do not know the rate on these springs. Eight months after purchase, a Banks Power Pack was installed by Marren Motorsports. The Banks kit, still on truck, includes 12cm wastegated turbo, Banks intercooler, Banks intercooler hoses/boots, Banks exhaust, K&N filter and Banks gauge kit made up of a tachometer, EGT and boost pressure. This upgrade resulted in a significant increase in power and fuel mileage. The family business went on to buy a few Ford rackbodies when the Powerstroke was introduced and a Ford 9000 Class 5 truck, so the Dodge saw less regular use after 1995. The business was closed in 1997 after my father’s passing and I kept the truck for both sentimental and utility purposes. The truck title change from the family business to me on 12/09/1997 shows 263,521 miles on it. The truck today has 276,787. In 13 years it’s been driven 13,266 miles. It has not been driven on the road since September of 2009. In 2001, I had the transmission rebuilt because of a noisy 5th gear. It was rebuilt by Camerota’s in Enfield, CT. I had the rear end inspected at that point as well and the ring and pinion (3.54) had to be replaced because one or more of the shims had been compromised and the contact between the ring and pinion had caused uneven wear. New ring and pinion were professionally installed and backlash properly set. I replaced the center driveshaft carrier bearing assembly at that point as well. In 2005 I made the decision to switch the truck from a cab and chassis to a pickup. This original intent was to save over $1000 a year on insurance by not having to carry commercial insurance and get a more usable vehicle in the process. Because the truck started life as a cab and chassis with a 165” wheel base, the frame needed to be shortened. Approximately 22” were removed from the frame between the cab and rear wheels. The frame was first butt welded using a double sided bevel weld. A 1/2” thick plate measuring 16” long and fitting exactly in the web of the frame rail was then perimeter welded on the inside of the frame. All frame work was performed by a professional welder. This combination of double v butt weld and fillet welds on a backing plate means this section of the frame is far stronger than the rest of the frame. Yes, it’s overkill, but I wasn’t about to screw around with my life or the life of my wife and son. The driveshaft was shortened and balanced by CT Driveshaft. The rear frame was sandblasted, primed and repainted with epoxy paint before the bed was mounted. The bed was purchased from Rust Free Truck Parts in Fairfax Iowa and shipped to CT. When they say rust free, they mean it. The bed was flawless with the exception of four holes drilled for a 5th wheel hitch. Before mounting, the bed was undercoated to deal with any New England road treatments that tends to be unkind to pickup beds. Additionally, because the cab and chassis uses a slightly narrower axle, I purchased a set of adapters from Fred Goeske at wheeladapter.com to ensure the rear track matched the Dodge DRW specification. A Reese Class V hitch was also installed along with a stock Dodge rear bumper. After the bed was mounted, I sent the truck out to be painted. Both rocker panels under the front doors were replaced. The entire truck was then prepped and reshot in the same gray as the OEM shade, but I had a little extra metallic flake added. The interior was completely stripped while in the body shop to ensure there was no rust in the floor. There was some surface rust on the passenger side which was blasted, primed and repainted. The entire interior was cleaned and the heater core/condenser was cleaned. I also added some punched aluminum sheet metal to each fresh air intake to ensure no critters can get access to the interior. The bench seat was remounted with a 1.5” powder coated square tube spacer to move the seat up a little bit as I always felt low in the truck even though I am 5’11”. Of course, it was done with Grade 8 bolts. In 2007, I was experiencing an uneven idle and the problem was diagnosed as a faulty injector. I purchased a set of matched Lucas POD injectors instead of buying stock injectors. While installing the injectors I noticed I had a slight fuel leak coming out of the throttle shaft of the Bosch VE injector pump. I had the top end of the pump rebuilt with all new seals and had a 3200rpm governor spring installed. The only thing I can say is WOW! Before backing out the fuel screw, this thing could throw enough black smoke to block out the sun…all while propelling you forward at rates that don’t equate with “diesel” or “truck”. Simply mind boggling, especially with the aforementioned Banks kit. The fuel screw is correctly adjusted now and you will get a slight haze at full throttle, but it’s clean everywhere else. Boost is above 30psi at wide open throttle. Oh...and no more 82mph governed top speed. In Nov 2007, I had all six tires replaced. They are virtually brand new. Battery was replaced in 2008, but that was not the cause of my voltage problem. ECM was therefore rebuilt in 2008. THE GOOD: Everything you read above, lots of good parts, a good body, strong drivetrain and a single caring owner. THE BAD: Brakes - it has none! The use of salt brine on roads here in the Northeast destroyed the metal brake lines on the truck. While replacing the power steering input seal a year ago, I bumped into one of the brake lines coming off of the master cylinder and it literally disintigrated. When I say I bumped into it, I mean I barely bumped into it. I can’t tell you how thankful I am that this happened in my driveway and not while I was out on the road. Who knows how long until it broke under pressure, or what the consequences might have been. However, I have purchased and will include in the sale a complete set of stainless steel, coil wound, pre-bent hard brake lines from Inline Tubing. This is a COMPLETE set, with the correct weird Dodge nipples in each end. Pictures of the complete set below. To complete the brakes, you will need to purchase a new master cylinder, rubber brake lines and front calipers (bleed nipples are frozen). Power Steering Box. It has a slight weep in the input shaft. The new seal I put in did help, but I believe the shaft itself is worn. You can drive it as is, but I’d replace it eventually unless you are fond of spots in your driveway. Engine rear main seal. Truck runs fine but it does weep occasionally. I’ve driven with it like this for quite some time, it has no consequences except for a few spots in your driveway, but I want everything fully disclosed. Radio. It doesn’t work. No clue why, I haven’t searched for a cause. It could even be a fuse, but I don’t listen to the radio so I really never cared. EGT and Tachometer. I think the ground needs to be fixed because neither work reliably. Sometimes they work, sometimes they don’t Headliner. It’s falling down on both the driver and passenger side. Nothing some spray adhesive and an hour of time can’t fix. THE UGLY: I will not let you drive this vehicle because it has no brakes. You will need to have a flatbed or some other means of transporting this truck home or to your garage of choice. Beyond the personal liability associated with letting you drive off in a vehicle I know has no brakes, I can’t do it in good conscience. If you are looking to figure out transport costs, my zip code is 06483. THE SAD: I will shed a tear when someone picks this truck up. My dad and I sat behind the wheel of this truck for many, many miles and it’s a piece of shared history that will be going to a new home. I will probably regret this in 10 or 20 years when I’m looking for a hobby, but I don’t currently have the time or space needed to take care of this truck. Beyond that, the truck needs to be driven and I simply don’t have the time to exercise it. I genuinely hope this truck goes to a good home (preferably a TDR member), to someone who recognizes what this truck really is and will treat it with the love and care it deserves. If you have ANY questions, please do not hesitate to email me at mike@mikeouellette.com. Thanks, Mike On Nov-28-10 at 06:18:05 PST, seller added the following information: On Nov-28-10 at 08:27:07 PST, seller added the following information: Frame pics