Detail Info for: 1980 International Scout II, Nationals Award Winner!!!

Transaction Info
Sold On:
07/06/2010
Price:
$ 5000.00
Condition:
Used
Mileage:
161000
Location:
Chicago, Illinois, 60622
Seller Type:
Private seller
Vehicle Specification
Year Make Model:
1980 International Harvester Scout
Submodel Body Type:
SUV
Engine:
8 - Cyl.
Transmission:
Automatic
VIN:
K0062KGD10853
Vehicle Title:
Drive Train:
Fuel Type:
Gasoline
Standard Equipment:
Optional Equipment:
Vehicle Detail
1980 IHC Scout II. 304 V8. Automatic Transmission (727). D20 XFer Case. Runs great. 4WD shifts easily & works great. 12-15MPG. Ive had this truck since 2002. It was originally a completely rust-free AZ vehicle. The second I got it to Chicago I immediately had it Ziebarted (professionally undercoated) and had the undercoating professionally reapplied every spring until Ziebart went out of business. In its prime, this was probably the nicest example of an SII daily driver out there. Between 2002 and 2004, without so much as washing it, I literally pulled into the lot of the IHC Nationals in Springfield OH and placed 2nd, 2nd & 3rd respectively in the 1980 Street Modified category (1980 being the most desirable of all Scout II production years). In 2006 I got married and started having kids and lost interest in my toy. Its pretty much sat in my garage for the past 3-4 years without being driven much, although I do try to drive it on errands around town every so often just to keep the engine oil, fluids, etc running thru it. Once you get gas into the carb (more on that later) it still fires up on the first crank and you can drive it with one finger on the highway. It runs smooth, handles as nicely as any Scout could, and stops on a dime. Ive been running Mobile1 synthetics (K&N Filters) in it for the past 10 years and the last time a mechanics had a chance to look inside (admittedly that was a while ago when I had a leaking valve cover gasket replaced) he said it was "clean enough to eat out of." Its had just about every desirable upgrade imaginable for a non-wheeler (You could proabbly just sell the stuff listed below for more than my reserve, which is significantly less than the BIN price): Extremely rare 1980 (square headlights) SS2 Grill Custom Brush Guard w/Tow Hooks Original SS Roll Bar (purchased from D&C Extreme) Bushwacker Fender Flares Lockomatic Auto Locking Hubs Original Hardtop + Kayline Soft Top Custom upholstry including SSS carpet kits. Bright Lights Kit Multiple Block heaters - One for the oil, one which heats & circulates the anti-freeze Black Wheels w/brand new (purchased a few years back, but probably less than 1000 miles on them) Blackwall Bridgestone ATs Tow Package Sony XPlod removable face CD player w/aux port & Pioneer speakers Custom Fold-up & *Removable* Back seat There's lots more, but you get the idea. OK - So Ive talked about some of the good stuff, but lets talk about the bad now. As I mentioned, this truck has basically sat for the past 3-4 years and I run synthetics. That combination is bad for leaks. Many of the seals have dried up over time and she marks her territory quite extensively nowadays. The worst offender is the rear main and/or oil pan which drips a bit everytime its driven. There are other non-oil spots Im seeing as well ... something red (tranny, rear diff or power steering ... Not sure which). I never considered leaks to be too big of a deal, but when I let it sit for a while and then drive it, fluids are dripping onto the pipes up near the manifold and burning off causing some smoke for the first 5-10 minutes or so of driving until it all burns off. More embarassing than problematic. The engine still runs strong. The automatic tranny takes about 5 seconds to warm up if I havent driven it in a while. After that it shifts perfectly 100% oif the time. Still steers easy and shifts into and out of 4WD no problem. If I were keeping it Id have ALL of the seals checked out and replaced where necessary. My front driver side quarter got hit in a parking lot about 8 months ago and I never got it fixed because I knew I was probably going to sell it and thought the next owner might want to change the paint color. See the pics. Obviously this need to be popped out. I have the fender flare for this QP and its included in this auction (along with a bunch of other misc parts that Ive collected over the years). Rust is starting to come into play (See the pics). Its mostly surface rust at this point, but I used to keep up with it and I dont anymore. She's too nice of a truck to let become your standard midwest Scout. This is the real reason Im selling her now. There are 2 spots of immediate concern. The windsheild under the seal which I probably wouldnt do anything with at this point (very common trouble spot ... Not much you can do about it short of going to Fiberglass) and the driver side door panel which has just recently shown to have cracked thru in one spot. There's also less troublesome bubbles & surface rust showing up here and there. The bumpers could use some cleanup. The other usual IH suspects, the rockers, floorboards, etc all look great! If I were keeping it and wanted to get it back in show condition Id have the whole thing professionally sanded down & repainted. If I just wanted to keep it from getting any worse (as is its still one of the best looking trucks you will ever see), Id just clean it & treat it where necessary. One the same note, surface rust has likley gotten into some of the electrical connections. The blinkers stopped working recently and the rear lights appear dimmer than they used to be. This is a pretty common issue with Scouts and easily fixed with a little free-time. If I were keeping it Id get some emmory cloth and clean up all of the electrical connections. There is a carb issue. Its minor, but annoying. Someone with more mechanical skill than I could proabbly fix it in minutes. I just live with it because I know how to deal with it. After it sits for a few days I need to pump / crank it for 30 seconds or so to get gas into it (it doesnt do this if I just let it sit overnight). Once it has gas it fires right up ... Ive verified this by pouring a little gas right into the carb before doing anything and she fires up immeditely. Once its heated up, if you head into the store or something and mistakenly pump it again when you come back out (effectively flooding it I guess?) you need to hold open the fly valve on the carb to get it started again. Aside from these issues, it runs great. No hesitations, great acceleration (for a Scout) idles good, etc. Its always passed IL emmissions without a problem. If I were keeping it Id probably have someone look at either fixing or rebuilding the carb. There are other minor misc issues. I assume anyone who buys a 30 year old truck assumes this to be the case. The cruise doesnt work (never has since Ive owned it). 1-2 snaps on the softtop popped off. Thats pretty much everything I can think of although its likely Im forgetting things. Check out the pics and feel free to ask questions. Ill also take more pics if anyone wants to see anything specifically. One last thing. I drive it around town with my wife and kids without thinking twice about its safety & reliability, but I probably wouldnt take it on a long roadtrip right now just because its been so long since Ive "pushed" it. Ive been as detailed as possible about everything I know to be wrong with the truck, but Im not a mechanic, and even if I were, I havent paid too much attention to the mechanicals lately. I have no reason to beleive it wouldnt make it on a long trip, but I strongly recomend shipping it if you arent a local buyer. Its the safe thing to do. Thanks, and happy bidding. Good luck.