2003 Mini Cooper S

Coupe

1.6L 16V Supercharged I4

Manual

WMWRE334X3TD66771

Clear

Gasoline

Up for sale is my 2003 MINI Cooper S 03/03 build date More pictures can be found HERE: http://s1249.photobucket.com/user/drvagry/library/?view=recent I have owned this car for about 6 years now and have put a lot of time and money into building it into what it is now. I have a stack of receipts for most of the parts I installed on this car as well as some of the work performed on it when I took it to repair shops for things like alignments or the brake lines. Overall the car is in decent condition with some rust issues on the body as pictured. Major areas are underneath the driver side tail light, drive door, and the rear hatch. There are some dings and scratches on the body with the worst parts being the front and rear bumpers, but I do have a spare blue front bumper that is in better condition included in the sale. Oil changes have been performed at most every 5,000 miles, but usually before 3,000 miles with Lqui-Moly Leichtlauf 5w-40 or Motul 8100 x-cess 5w-40 and Mann filter, the transmission has Redline MTL and the coolant is factory BMW/MINI blue mixed 50/50. Modifications:WMW 16% supercharger pulleyWMW ATI Superdamper 0% (stock size)Crower NS1 camshaftAlta red intakeAlta red silicone intercooler bootsCustom catback using rear muffler and tips from R56 SARP headstudsARP rod boltsFK AK coiloversSPC front camber/caster platesFront Cabrio bracesCravenspeed STDsPowerflex Black bushing: lower-control arm, small lower engine mount, transmission mountPowerflex Street bushing: top engine pitch mount, large lower engine mountTSW polyurethane motor mountTSW MDM big brake kit 12.19" x 0.81" 2-piece rotors with Wilwood Dynalite 4-piston calipers less than 500 miles on calipersStainless front brake linesJCW carbon/alcantara shiftknobScangauge IIHelix smoked corner markersFacelift halogen headlights (came with pre-facelift xenon, wiring and level sensor still on car)A/C delete (condenser, pump, lines removed from firewall)Power Steering delete (block-off plate on steering rack)Turner Motorsports 90mm bullet-nose lug studs and 17mm nutsRear wiper delete Maintenance (all within the last 10,000 miles, most within 5,000):Oil/filter change (500 miles)Sparklpugs (JCW NGK platinums)Coil (Beru oem)Spark plug wires (Beru)Fuel FilterLuk stock replacement clutchAll engine gaskets incl. supercharger gasketsTiming chain, guides, tensionerSupercharger beltBalljointsTie-rod endsRear shock mountsCabin air filterBrake fluid flushWaterpumpThermostatRadiatorOil coolerClean air-filterAll brake hardlines replaced (rear used factory steel coated line, front is nickel-copper)Right rear brake caliper Front right wheel bearingDunlop Direzza DZ102 in 215/45/17JCW supercharger with teflon rotors removed from a car with 70,000 miles (oil changed with AC Delco before install) Installed new bearing on snout and new coupler. Cylinder head rebuilt ie 5 angle valve job, valve guides, valve seals, clean, deckOEM head gasket I will include several boxes of spare parts which includes tons of new fasteners and clips, all of the parts to re-install power steering and A/C (A/C lines are NOT included, lost) as well as a spare damaged crankshaft, a cylinder head, supercharger core and many miscellaneous pieces. I also have the headlight washer pump and lines that were removed when I installed the facelift headlights and all of the rear interior except the rear seatbelts because they fully retarcted when I removed them. I also will include two spare 16in. wheels that have Dunlop Graspic snow tires with decent tread mounted if you want them. The only issues I can currently know of are CEL codes for camshaft position sensor low voltage, and three codes for the rear oxygen sensor. The high-speed cooling fan currently runs all the time when the car is on because the power steering cooling fan is removed which is part of the wiring circuit for the main cooling fan on early cars, the main fan can be unplugged and coolant temps remain below 190F unless in heavy traffic. Also I accidentally broke the clockspring while the steering wheel was off so ABS, DSC, brake pad sensor lights are on and steering wheel buttons do not work. Driver door does not lock/unlock with key fob buttons, must put key in lock and turn. Could use an alignment too. Buyer is responsible for inspecting the vehicle before sale The reason I'm selling is I am moving to a place where parking is at a premium and I need to get rid of some of my toys in favor of more practical ones. This car is extremely fun to drive spiritedly.