Detail Info for: 2003 Dodge Dakota Sport- Crew Cab 2003 Dodge Dakota Quad Cab, 4.7L 8Cyl 4WD, works great- not very pretty

Transaction Info

Sold On:
12/15/2017
Price:
$ 1352.00
Condition:
Mileage:
137085
Location:
Port Washington, New York, 11050
Seller Type:
Private Seller

Vehicle Specification

Year Make Model:
2003 Dodge Dakota
Submodel Body Type:
Extended Crew Cab Pickup
Engine:
4.7L 8 Cylinder
Transmission:
Automatic
VIN:
1D7HG38N93S298272
Vehicle Title:
Clear
Drive Train:
Fuel Type:
Gasoline
Standard Equipment:
Optional Equipment:

Vehicle Detail

She ain't much to look at, but she will get you around just fine and is very useful for dirty jobs. I have always brought it to a mechanic for repairs, and kept up on the important stuff. The engine, transmission, steering, suspension, brakes, tires, coolant system, etc. are all in good working condition. The tires and brakes are also currently is very good condition. Here are the flaws that I know of, just so there are no surprises (tried to take pics of them all). I am going to be 100% honest and hold nothing back: 1) Headliner is saggy a lot2) Big dent on driver side door3) Rust spots through out4) Front bumper paint is faded a lot5) To start the truck you need to sometimes jiggle and tap in on the key to turn the ignition. I've never ever NOT been able to turn the ignition, you just need to learn the trick. I'm just being totally honest- it's not a big deal really. You could probably replace the ignition if it bothers you, but whats the point- it's pretty old.6) A/C does not work. So, I had a mechanic replace A/C compressor, and it worked for a few days then started steaming when I turned on the A/C. I brought it back and mechanic said he needed to add another part, it was not important enough for me to pay for that repair. You might want to do it yourself, I'm just telling you that the A/C compression is new.7) It leaks a little oil, but what car over 130,000 miles doesn't? It is not a bad leak, I don't have to replenish oil between oil changes.8) There is a "check engine" light always on, but it is just a bad sensor that I never wanted to pay to have fixed. It will pass inspection if the sensor is cleared first. Your mechanic can do this, or you can do this by disconnecting the battery for a few seconds and reconnecting it. It will clear, then you can pass inspection. Or you can pay to have the sensor fixed, just never cared to do that. I am happy to get a list of all the repairs from my mechanic (assuming he has them). I am also happy to introduce you to him, they are very honest as far as mechanics go.

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