1966 Plymouth Other

2.8L 170cid L6

Automatic 904

VL41A61617821

Clear

Gasoline

For sale is a partially restored 1966 Plymouth Valiant, 4-Door, Base Model V100, with an automatic transmission (tree, not push button) and 170 cid "Slant-6" Engine. Interior is 80% restored - new carpet and seat covers; most external engine parts have been replaced - new fuel, brake, cooling, exhaust, and ignition systems; exterior is 20% restored - new welded-in floor pans. Starts up immediately and runs excellent - no oil leaks. Purchased from original owner (grandson selling deceased grandmother's vehicle) who claimed engine mileage was original and that the speedometer had not turned over. I have no reason not to believe this - condition of vehicle (e.g., wear on brake pedal and seats) supports this claim. I have been driving the car daily for the last few weeks with no problems. This car is an excellent value at $3,000, even better if you can win this auction at a lower price. For someone wanting to get into a great hobby, own a piece of automotive history, and attend those Friday night antique car drive-ins as more than just a spectator, this is a great way to start! I purchased the vehicle for $1,000 in 2004 and have put over $3,000 in parts into it since. More specifically: Things I Have ReplacedCarburetor (Holley)Master CylinderWheel Brake CylindersBatteryBrake Pedal Linkage to Master Cylinder and SealsBrake PadsBrake Springs and AccessoriesBrake FluidExhaust Pipe, Muffler, and Tail PipeMetal and Rubber Brake LinesBrake Adjuster CablesMolded Carpet and BackingFront and Rear Seat CoversTiresWheel BearingsShock Absorbers/StrutsDriver and Passenger Side Floor PansWindshield Washer ReservoirWindshield WipersHeater/Dash Vents and HosesArm Rest (One)Transmission Shift Shaft SealTransmission Pan GasketFuel TankFuel PickupFuel PumpFuel FilterAir FilterValve Cover GasketRadiatorRadiator HosesRadiator FanFan BeltRadiator CapWater PumpThermostatIgnition WiresIgnition CoilSpark PlugsDistributor CapRotorPoints (With Electronic Ignition)AntennaDoor Weather Stripping/SealsWindow Weather Stripping and Cat WhiskersThings I Have Had DoneTransmission Fluid Flushed and ReplacedRadiator Fluid Flushed and ReplacedCarburetor Adjusted (after I installed the new carburetor)Exhaust System ReplacedTiming SetThings I Have Done MyselfCleaned/Detailed the InteriorCleaned/Detailed the exterior (Including Around the Door Openings)Cleaned/Degreased the Engine CompartmentPor 15 (Awesome Rust Preventive)/Painted the Valve CoverPor 15/Painted and repaired the Battery TrayPainted the Top of the DashRepaired and Painted the Sun VisorsRepaired and Painted the Dash PadPainted the Arm RestsCreated a New Rear Window Panel and PaintedRepaired and Painted the Steering WheelWelded in the Floor PansPor 15/Painted the Floor PansRe-Caulked Seams in the Floor Body (Where Needed)Installed Seat Covers (Hog Tied)Installed New CarpetConstructed New Kick Panels - Painted and InstalledAll Mechanical Work on the Car (Except as Noted Above)Greased All FittingsThat is all I can remember right now. I am sure there are things I am forgetting. I have some of the original purchase documents from Tag Galyear Motor Co., S. Charleston, W. Va.). Original Keys. What Needs To Be Done/Re-Done - There are several small water leaks into the car from under the dashboard. I believe one is being caused by a dried out windshield wiper pivot seal (which I have purchased but not installed). Not sure where the other two are coming from. - One of the seams in the headliner has come apart. The threads in the the other seams, though delicate I am sure, are holding up. Overall, the headliner doesn't look bad, and if the seam can be repaired it should last for a while. - After I painted the top of the dash, I laid a towel across it to protect it from the sun - fuzz stuck to the paint. The fuzz has been cleaned off but it left the paint marred where it stuck. It doesn't look too bad, but needs to be redone. - I did my best to repair the dash pad and it is way better than was when I started, however, the two main cracks I repaired are not perfect (I used silicone) and an additional crack has appeared. - I cracked the plastic around the steering wheel hub when installing it and although I repaired it using Por 15 Epoxy Putty (excellent product), it did not come out perfect (slightly out of round). It looks fine for now and the integrity of the wheel is not affected. - There are rust spots on the body that need to be repaired (wheel wells primarily). The body needs to be painted. The car could use a good sand blasting first. Also, the bumpers, door handles, and exterior trim definitely need re-chroming. - The car hesitates (bogs down) when going up hills. I am not sure why. The carburetor may need adjustment (set too lean) or the the timing reset. - The driver's side leaf spring is weaker than the passenger side and both springs needs replacing. - The gas gauge is not working. It was last spring and it may be a loose sensor connection. I have not investigated it, but will. Overall, the car runs great, the interior is excellent, and the exterior is in very good shape for a 48 year old car. I just compounded and waxed the exterior and it looks very good, in my opinion. With some work on the exterior, a new headliner, and some minor repairs to the interior, the car is going to be a great daily driver or local show car that will get a lot of attention (it is very popular because so many people owned one). My first car as a teenager was a 1967 4-door Valiant with a Slant-6 engine. I bought it used for a few hundred dollars and my brothers and I put over 200,000 miles on it. One of the most reliable cars and best engines ever made! Good times and good memories!! I have more photos and can take any specific photos requested. I work from home so am almost always available to show the car.