1965 MG Midget

MKII U/K

1.1L 1098CC 67Cu. In. l4 GAS OHV Naturally Aspirat

4 speed manual

GAN3L/29368

Clear

GAS

Previous listing number is 231151797390, guy I bought it from. Engine is stuck - previous listing said so too. A Mark II is supposed to be a 1098cc. I can't tell because the engine data plate is missing. I bet it is a 948cc! If bids go over 300 I'll remove the head and check the bore. That will tell if it is a 948 or 1098. I could be talked into pulling the engine with tranny once the bidding ends and the bids get high enough. I'd put the engine on a short stand so my hand cart can move it. I carried a 1275 from Mini by hand with a buddy and they are surprisingly heavy! There is no carpeting. The seats are disassembled (rails separate from seat base and seat back is off). There is some rust in the usual places (check MOSS MOTORS website to see where), and a hole in drivers floor where seat rail bolts in, left front bolt. Battery box floor is rusted out. Wheel knockoffs work well, but tabs are banged up. Wheel splines and hub splines are good. Tires hold air but are cracked. I actually used the brass hammer I used on my TR3 knockoffs. Back in the day I had a TR3, a 1965 Midget, a 1275 Sprite, an MGB, and Sunbeam Tiger MkII. The spring boxes are in good shape. This is a good indicator of overall chassis condition IMO. Before I took it home (paid $830.00 for it as is) I jacked up one corner and the doors stayed true. The electric fuel pump looks relatively new, but probably a toad garage installed it because the wires are not dressed nice (all sloppy and dangly). The electric fuel pump also means the car is a late build Mark II. There is no fluid in the hydraulics reservoir, and the seller told me it had been sitting in a barn for 6 years. Shows 80,000 miles. No soft top, but has the frame. I've replaced 3 tops and it is not difficult to end up with no wrinkles, especially if installed when it is hot out. Front disc brakes have surface rust but don't show any wear, rear drums have minimal surface rust outside and the pads look fresh (visible through the adjuster hole). Brakes were probably fresh before the engine stopped. Emergency brake works. Front knuckles seem tight when checked by hand, and show signs of having been greased. Slight play in wheel bearings, more on left side then right. They are "adjustable" by design of course. I have too many projects (small airplane fuselage framed up, working on a 670 cubic inch radial, my VW Thing chassis needs work, PT Cruzer needs work, need to finish house and sell it, etc). I thought about total breakdown, sand blast, weld in patches, and build her back up. But I'm older and slower by the minute. Apologies to the guy I sniped on previous listing - I let emotion get hold of me. OTOH, getting "stuck" with it would be soooo terrible :-) I'd "have" to rebuild it - Oh boo. I'll deliver for 50 cents a loaded mile ~300 miles max one way, but everything will have to be paid up first if I deliver. So be sure you know what you are doing. I'm in Rochester NY (Honeoye Falls to be exact). The guy I bought it from trucks for a living and he Iives near Scranton Pa and he would give the buyer a transport price.On Feb-17-14 at 04:53:29 PST, seller added the following information: Ebayer told me how to tell 948 vs 1098 w/o pulling head. To him it looks like a 1098 (yea) but I'll confirm tonight as the head and block are different colors so I wonder if 1098 head was installed on a 948 block, or if even possible. Also noticed that the vacuum tube from distributor can terminates in space behind head. So somebody was trying to do some patch work. Also rear tail light lenses cracked, left front turn signal lens missing, rear bumper tweaked and straightened just inside the right over-rider, front bumper ok, turn signal stalk is limp. On Feb-17-14 at 17:04:05 PST, seller added the following information: It is NOT a 948 block. No where are the numbers 950 cast into the block, which a fellow ebayer indicated is a telltale. Checked both left and right sides. And the crankcase breather is 1098 style. The right side vent on the door, the upper hinge is broken. The rear most stud that secures the exhaust manifold is missing.On Feb-19-14 at 18:13:08 PST, seller added the following information: Pulled the head. Front 2 cylinders full of auto tranny fluid. That would hydraulically lock it. Put a power pak on the battery terminals. Key switch clicks the solenoid but that's it. Put pak on starter cable, it loaded the pak but nothing. Seems to me that starter is jammed engaged with flywheel. Going to pull starter. Added pix of cylinders and head. Oil sump way overfilled, new oil.On Feb-20-14 at 18:02:39 PST, seller added the following information: Pulled the starter, works like it should. Flywheel looks good. Engine is stuck. Whatever cylinder wall I can see looks good, zero corrosion. No carbon on the head, so someone probably cleaned it before it was installed last time but never got it running. Since 1976 there are 3 owners, including me, though only the first guy is actually titled. The guy I bought from got it from the guy who titled it in New Jersey in 1976. An ebayer asked about the title so good question, answered here. The bill of sale I have shows both prices and names, the old price and latest sellers name taped over!On Feb-20-14 at 18:08:33 PST, seller added the following information: There was solid green antifreeze in the heater hose I disconnected!On Feb-21-14 at 04:24:33 PST, seller added the following information: When it was titled in 1976 the title shows 76000 miles. Now the odo shows 80000. So if there have been no games then since 1976 the car had done 4000 miles.On Feb-24-14 at 17:59:16 PST, seller added the following information: Delivery - I'll go further than ~300 miles, maybe 400, but the rate jumps to 75 cents a loaded mile after 300 - except the guy out on Long Island, he's locked in if he wins. I included a pix of left side floor and right side behind seat. Last words - don't let emotion, or the idea of loosing the sale, drive you. You'll regret it later. Pick your good number and stick with it, win or loose. I'd rather see a happy bidder with a lower bid with good feedback than a crank for a higher bid and rocky feedback. On Feb-25-14 at 16:02:02 PST, seller added the following information: Several new pix. Cranked up door windows with difficulty, up to half way. I'd say the slider needs lube. The crank gears felt ok, no skips. Didn't want to force it. I'd remove door panel and get some silicone on the slider and track. Right door window vent broken and damaged as seen in new pix, plan on replacing. It would include the track which reaches down into door cavity. The chrome on the left vent window much better. Hole in drivers floor visible in photo with the rocker shaft. There is a spare wire wheel and tire but there is a small ding in the edge. It is repairable IMO.