1979 Porsche 928

928S Hatchback

4.7L 4671CC V8 GAS SOHC Naturally Aspirated

Manual

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Clear

Gasoline

NO RESERVE! 1984 Porsche 928 S – Euro I have had to list this car as a 1979 because it is a grey market import from Europe and Ebay will not recognize the European VIN. It is a 1984 model. 4.7 L Euro V8, 5 – spd Manual Transmission, LSD New shift linkage coupler installed, engine oil and filter change with full synthetic oil, transaxle fluid change with redline synthetic oil, new spark plugs, rebuilt clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder, new rubber clutch line, new battery. Service / Maintenance records from 1985 – 1994. Amazing car to drive! Powerful, sleek, turns heads. Cheap Historic Registration and Insurance! Drive and Restore! As stated above, this car is a 1984 Porsche 928 S. Being an “S,” this car has the 4.7L V8, with different spoilers and wider wheels compared to the earlier, regular 928. It has the 5-spd manual transmission, which is relatively rare. This car is also the coveted euro version, meaning that it has 306 hp, much more than the US market version that was watered down to pass emissions tests. According to the plate inside the door, this car was imported by Can-Lease, Inc. in September 1983. It currently has a clear Virginia title. I am selling this Porsche on behalf of my father, who does not use the internet. It is owned by his small car dealership, but since he bought it back in about September I have been playing around with it, doing some work on it and using it for transportation. I LOVE this car! I never see any others on the road. The 928 is sleek, and has an aggressive low and wide stance that no other car has. The car is refined but has that visceral V8 growl and power. This is the kind of car that makes you look forward to driving out on some mundane errand, or going to and from work. I initially listed this 928 on Ebay not long after we got it, but stopped the auction after a few days because after driving the car daily, I did not want to give it up (hence the pics all showing leaves still on the trees). Despite having 4 other cars in various states of repair / use, I just could not let this one go, and convinced myself that 5 cars was “do-able.” Well, after a few extra months, I still love the car just as much, but 5 cars is not “do-able” for someone that works 6 days a week and barely has time for 1 car. I am now looking to down-size, meaning that I have to let this one, and probably one other, go. It is time to pass this Porsche on to someone else that will appreciate it, care for it, and have garage space to keep it inside. I would say that this car is in average condition for the age, perhaps slightly less. It is not perfect, and needs work, but it is not a clunker either, and looks better than a lot of the “fixer-upper” 928s listed. I would class this as a drive-and-restore car, and I have driven it to work as my daily commuter fairly often. As you may know, the Porsche 928 was at one time Porsche's flagship model, and was developed to replace the 911. With the front-mounted V8 engine coupled to a transaxle, the car has a 50/50 weight distribution. That and the addtion of passive rear-wheel steering gave the car excellent handling characteristics, and it handles better than the tail-heavy 911 of the same era. However, the 911 remained the most popular model, and when Porsche needed the reduce their selection of models in the 90s, the 928 was axed. I can confirm that the car is lovely to drive, as I have been driving it around the local area and to work. The V8 engine provides a low-rumbling, aggressive soundtrack. The car accelerates well and corners flat. With its sleek, low and wide stance it looks great going down the road, or sitting parked. You never see these cars on the road, so this one definitely gets some attention. This car has its original owner's and service manuals. The service manual is completely filled, showing regular services performed between 1985 – 1994, including timing belt changes. All services performed by German Auto Werks in Gaithersburg, MD, except for 3 that were performed by Bavarian Foreign Car BMW, Mercedes Benz in Harrisburg, PA. The last entry in the filled booklet is March 10, 1994. We have no other records of maintenance. This is a great car, but it is nearly 30 years old, and needs some work. The engine is strong but is running a bit rough. I have replaced the sparkplugs, and put seafoam treatment in the intake and gas (not in the oil), but I have not replaced any other tune-up parts. The transaxle synchros seem OK, but I have had a recurring problem with the clutch hydraulics. When we first got the car the clutch was not working properly, and the car would not shift gears. The clutch itself was fine, but there was no pressure in the clutch hydraulics. I rebuilt the slave cylinder and master cylinder and replaced the rubber section of clutch line that had decayed. I also had the clutch pedal professionally welded and reinforced because it had developed a fatigue crack. After a lot of cursing, I was able to bleed the clutch hydraulics properly and get the clutch system working again. I have since had to bleed the clutch multiple times. After being bled, the clutch works well, but gradually looses pressure, making gear shifts more difficult. There is obviously a leak somewhere in the system. If you check the 928 forums, you'll find that this is a common problem, and the best way to fix it is just to go ahead and replace all the parts. I already have a remanufactured master cylinder for the car, so it just needs a new slave cylinder, and should also have the brake master cylinder replaced and hopefully that will solve the problem once and for all. I did also change the transaxle fluid in January, putting in a blend of Redline synthetic 75-90 and 75-90 non-slip that was recommended on the forums. It made the shifting a little bit better, especially when driving in cold weather, but the clutch hydraulics still need to be sorted out. This car, as with many 928s, also suffered from an extremely sloppy shifter, but I installed a brand new shift linkage coupler from Pelican Parts, and that has cured it. I also have a new shifter ball cup bushing that goes with the car, but that component does not need replacing at this time. An oil and filter change was done with Rotella 5W-40 full synthetic oil. From being underneath the car when bleeding the clutch, it looks like the front sway bar bushings may have been replaced, but I can't be sure. I installed a new battery in January as well. The body on this car is solid. I do not see any serious rust on it, and have only noticed a couple of small spots of surface rust. It appears to have the original blue / grey paint. The paint on the hood and side mirrors is a bit faded, there are 2 or 3 small places where the clearcoat has come off, and the typical dings, chips and scratches for a 29 year old car are present. The driver's mirror has been taped in place, and there is a trim piece missing that goes around the front driver's side fog lamps. The mid section of the exhaust has some rust holes in it, but the exhaust headers and “cat-back” portion look fine. The interior is OK considering the age, but needs a clean-up. It would really look good if detailed. It's amazing to see the stitched leather on the panels. There are some cracks in the leather of the front seats – mainly the driver's seat. The gauge cover has a few cracks in it, and there is a tear on the dash leather where it has shrunk. Some of the carpeting on the driver's door is also slightly loose and needs to be glued back into place. All of the lights, wipers and most of the electrics appear to work. The power windows work, but not the power locks. The UNGO alarm system is present, but has been disconnected. The power sunroof and mirrors are currently not working. The rear-view mirror has detached from the windshield. The radio, heater and heater fan DO work, and the A/C comes on but blows warm air. The ABS light is on, the oil gauge is dead, and the speedo was working fine initially, but has become tempermental over the past 2 months. *** I have often driven this car on my 20-mile round trip to work. I have also driven it on the highway, in suburban areas, in stop and go rush-hour traffic, etc., with no problems. I have never taken it on a long-distance journey. I think that this is a pretty good “drive-and-restore” project car, that is my subjective opinion, and if I didn't already have 4 other project cars, I would keep it. It is not perfect, it needs work. If you are looking for a perfect 928, this is not your car, so spend $10k – 20k for one of the perfect ones that is listed on Ebay. If you want a good 928 to restore, then this is your car. I have listed as many problems as I know about that will need attention, I'm sure there may be others. I am not a mechanic, I just know how to do some work on cars, so please, if you are serious about buying the car, read the description thoroughly, look at all the super-sized pics, and then come and have a look at it in person before the auction ends so that you know you are comfortable with what you are buying. I've had it with Ebayers that are too lazy to come look at a car before buying, then show up and start tire-kicking and whining about every little imperfection. If you are a serious bidder, arrange a time with me to come and see / drive the car. If you choose not to do that, then I don't want to hear about a scratch that you couldn't see in the picture, or a faded area of carpet, etc., you have forfeited your right to complain. PLEASE READ: Bidders with zero or negative feedback, and overseas bidders, must contact me prior to bidding – I will delete your bids otherwise. Do not send me angry emails when you bid without contacting me, and then find that I have deleted your bids and blocked you from further bidding on the auction. This car is sold AS IS, with NO WARRANTY. Please examine the supersized photos, and contact me if you have any questions. Serious bidders are welcome to come see the car, just give me notice ahead of time so I can adjust my schedule. Since this car is being sold by a dealership, if on arrival for pick-up the buyer has a valid driver's license and proof of insurance for this car, a 2-month temp. tag can be supplied at an additional cost of $35. Maryland Residents: This car is not MD-state inspected. It is over 20 years old, so if the buyer is a MD resident, the car will be sold as historic. This car is owned by Chesaco Car Company, a MD car dealership, so if the buyer is a MD resident, then the State of MD requires that my dad collect a tax of 6% of the sale price. Also, for MD residents the MVA requires that the title be processed through the MVA, at a cost of $100, which will be added to the auction price. These costs are imposed on MD residents by the government - not my dad! They do not apply if the winning bidder is not a Maryland resident. Payment is to be made in CASH at pick-up. Winning bidder must contact me within 24 hours of the end of the auction. The car must be picked up within 1 week of the end of the auction.