2004 Volvo V70

Wagon

2.5L 2521CC l5 GAS DOHC Turbocharged

Automatic

YV1SJ52Y042395937

Clear

Normal 0 false false false EN-US X-NONE X-NONE 2004 Volvo V70 R Offered at NO RESERVE is my extremely nice Volvo V70 R with 135,997 miles. This is an all-wheel-drive automatic car that has been well cared for and has had just about all the possible V70 R issues addressed. This car has heated seats and is pretty well loaded. The Vin# is YV1SJ52Y042395937. Trade? I'm a car guy, and have certainly bought A LOT more than I've sold over the years, so I'm going to try to give you all the information I would want to know if I were looking. While most of the cars I've purchased over the years have been fine, a couple of people have ripped me off by basically misrepresenting their cars. You can rest assured that I am not going to do that. I will be hypercritical and tell you EVERY little thing I can about the car so you can bid with confidence that you'll be getting what you expect if you win. A few extra bucks isn't worth the hassle of having an angry buyer. Here we go: About Me: I'm a car nut and have owned over 200 through the years. I used to keep 10-15 cars at a time when I had the space, but these days 4-5 is the norm. I don't buy and sell cars for profit (in fact, if I really did the math over the years and realized how much I've lost, I'd probably cry). I buy things that are interesting to me and that I want to own. I am an individual, not a dealer. Location: We, and the car, are in the southeast part of Houston, Texas, near NASA. The Back Story (Where did we get the car?): My wife and I bought this car from a large dealership in Springfield, Illinois, last summer. They had taken it in on trade from the previous owner. I was looking all over the country at V70 Rs and decided on this one. We flew in and made a road trip of driving it back home over about 4 or 5 days, which is something we do about once a year. We are the 3rd owners. Why this car?: We sold my wife's daily driver - a Chevy Tahoe LTZ - and she couldn't decide for sure what she wanted to replace it with. I talked her into driving either a V70 R or an Audi Allroad until she made up her mind (primarily because I had always wanted one and I love Euro Sport Wagons in general). I think the color of this car made it appealing to her so we bought it. Why are we selling it?: My wife finally decided she was missing her Tahoe and wanted another big SUV so we bought a new Toyota Sequoia. We have more cars than garage space so she's stuck outside until we sell some things. We just don't drive the Volvo much so it's time to go. Why you want THIS car: I bought this car for my wife to drive, so you know I addressed every possible issue and spared no expense in setting the car up. NEVER smoked in!! This should be about the first piece of information in a car ad because if you aren't a smoker you will never be happy with a car that has been driven by one. NO RUST! This car is 100% rust free. It was originally a North Carolina car and shows no signs of corrosion of any kind. The timing belt was replaced @ 119,851 miles. If you buy one that hasn't had this done, you WILL be doing it between 100K and 150K and it will cost you a lot! All 4 tires were replaced right before I bought the car so they only have a couple thousand miles on them. The front struts and shocks were replaced by the dealership right before I bought the car. These typically go out at around 125K and the parts alone are about $1000. I replaced all three wiper blades with the best brand I could buy. ($50) I replaced the rear wiper motor with a new factory replacement unit ($290). The wiper worked when I bought the car but it made a loud noise so I figured the gears were stripping and just replaced the whole unit. I replaced the rear sway bar links. When we got home with the car I took it to my mechanic to get it inspected and he informed me that there was some play in the rear sway bar links, so we replaced everything. ($300) Replaced the brakes - pads and rotors! The brakes worked fine, but they squealed sometimes on the road trip home. My mechanic informed me that aftermarket brakes were on the car and recommended going back to the original set up. They aren't cheap, but they're new now so great for the next owner. ($1200) Had all the windows tinted at "Tint My Ride". ($175) Purchased a custom fit sunshade for the front windshield. ($35) The only piece of trim that was missing from the car was the rear wiper cover so I got a new one from Volvo and put it on. Had the ABS ECU rebuilt ($750). The gauges on the car stopped working one day and this was diagnosed as the culprit. It comes with a lifetime warranty for the rebuilt part. Bought new Volvo factory load bars. ($355) Purchased a new Thule wind fairing. In the fall of 2011, this car hit a deer at low speed. Why is this a GOOD thing? (not for the deer obviously, but for the car) - As the story was relayed to me, it was a light collision with no air bag deployment and no structural damage of any kind (the deer even ran off from the accident), but the owner worked his insurance company and got both front headlights replaced as well as the front air dam and grill and all other cosmetic nose pieces. As a result, the cosmetic nose of this car is like new! Additionally, if you know these cars you know that the xenon headlight units are VERY expensive ($960 EACH!) and usually require replacement at around 10 years of age. These are brand new! The car didn't have a cargo cover when I bought it so I found one and picked it up. ($120) I replaced the center console with a newer unit from a 2006 model. ($350) 2004 Had the older style console with an inferior storage hold and drink holder. They changed it in 2005, but the newer units will bolt right in so I did it. I think it looks 100% better and the drink holders work great. The original console is included if you want it. I had both front interior windshield pillars recovered in black at "Auto Facelifts". ($95) They were originally gray, but it made no sense (Swedes?). No matter what the color combo is on V70 interiors, they always make the headliner gray. Gray and tan just don't go together. You don't notice so much except the pillars because they're in your line of sight. I had them done in black and it looks great! I have a clear Texas title in hand and the car is registered and inspected. Condition: I will attempt to answer any possible questions, but feel free to contact me with any more you may have. You're welcome to inspect the car if possible, but I try to give as much of a description as I can so that you have a good idea of what you are bidding on. Body: The body and paint on the car are very nice. The paint is bright and clean with no fading or issues at all. There are a few minor nicks or scuffs here and there as you would expect on any used car, but it really does show VERY well. The nose of the car is immaculate! Mechanical: I believe every mechanical aspect of this car is outstanding. Every known issue has been addressed and all the V70 R expensive stuff has been done so it should be good to go for another 10 years or more. Wheels and Tires: The tires were all replaced just prior to me purchasing the car and have only a few thousand miles on them. The wheels are nice and solid but do have a few curb scuffs that could be machined out if you wanted them to be perfect. Stereo: The car has the original unit that works and sounds great. It has a 4-disc in-dash CD changer. Electrics: All electrical components function perfectly. AC & Heat System: The AC and heat system works GREAT! It was 105 degrees about the entire trip home last summer and it kept us ice cold the whole way, and that was before we tinted the windows. Interior: The interior is in very good condition. The drivers' seat shows some wear as does the carpet in the drivers' area. Everything else is about perfect. The dash is perfect, as is the headliner and rear cargo area and rear seats. It's a fantastic looking car for nearly 10 years old. Misc: Comes with all the books and manuals and two key fobs and two sets of keys. The spring on one of the key fobs doesn't work. This car has the "switchblade" type keys that pop out when you press a button. One of the fobs doesn't pop out so you have to pull the key out manually. The other one is fine. Because people will ask: This car does not have the 3rd row seat option. You can bolt a unit right in if you want to, but this car doesn't have it - it has the storage compartment instead. Buy It Now?: You always get a bunch of people wanting to know "how much" to buy the car. I don't have a Buy It Now price. If you want to throw a number at me feel free, but I'm probably just going to let the auction run its course unless you knock my socks off. I always prefer no reserve auctions because if you have a reserve you're not "auctioning" the car, simply advertising it. A few thousand one way or the other isn't going to make or break me so bid away and we'll see how it shakes out. After the half-way point, I won't end the auction for ANY offer - it just isn't fair to other bidders who may have taken the time to ask questions or even come see the car to pull the auction right before the end. Trade?: I'd love to say no, but I have a real weakness for cars (and other vehicles for that matter), sooooo - what do you have? In all seriousness, I would only be interested in a trade if it's something interesting / unique, or if it's a value trade in my favor (ie - you're car is worth more in my opinion than my car). I'm happy to hear all offers, but it would need to happen sooner as opposed to later. PS: I'm selling this car at NO RESERVE because that's what an auction is supposed to be. I can’t stand car dealers “auctioning” off their vehicles with reserves. If it has a reserve it’s not an auction, it’s just an advertisement. I have reached the point that I won’t even bid on vehicles that have reserves because 9 times out of 10 it’s just a waste of time and an exercise in frustration. If you are in South East Houston, I encourage you to come inspect the vehicle before bidding. Final Thoughts: I have no delusions about getting my money back on this car. I've spent way too much on it. I don't need the car, so whatever it brings, it brings. I don't see any issues with anyone wanting to drive this car across the country - that's what we did when we bought it and it's much better now. I can pick you up at the airport if you fly in and I'll be happy to meet your shipper if you have it shipped. As I mentioned before, I am an individual and a car guy. I'm not a dealer, I don't sell cars for money (if I did, I'd have the worst record everJ). I used to collect cars, but my wife and I only have a 3 car garage in our current home and we currently have 4 cars. With summer coming up, making my wife park outside seems a little cruel. The car is in Southeast Houston (Clear Lake Area near NASA - 77059). If you want to ship it or whatever, there is no huge rush to get it out. It can stay in our garage as long as needed (within reason). If you want to come see the car that's great. If you have any questions, feel free to e-mail me or send me your phone number and I'll give you a call. I'm happy to answer any questions or chat about the car anytime. My e-mail address is scottrodriguez@att.net I'll work with the buyer to make everything convenient and easy. I'll take it to a shipper, etc. As far as payment goes, just about anything is fine but I'll make sure the funds clear before I release the car. I would prefer a deposit via PayPal if it's going to be more than a few days for full payment. I'll eat the PayPal fee for the deposit (let's say $500 non-refundable deposit), but if you want to pay the full amount via PayPal I'd like the fee added to the amount. I don't mind using PayPal, but on large sums they hit you for a significant amount. Good Luck!!