1991 Eagle Talon TSI Eclipse GSX Turbo AWD 5-spd

Hatchback

2.0L DOHC Turbo

Manual

4e3ct64u2me107816

Clear

Gasoline

LOW RESERVE AUCTION!! 1991 Eagle Talon TSI, turbo AWD 5-spd! Good Condition, Quick, Aftermarket Parts. Brand New Set of Tein Super Street Coilovers installed! Cross-drilled rotors on front brakes. New brake lines, new clutch slave cylinder, rebuilt clutch master cylinder. If you have been looking for a good 1st gen DSM to drive, restore or race, this is your car. These cars are very hard to find in this condition. Many have blown diffs or transmissions, bad synchros, snapped timing belts, or have just been chopped up and stripped out for racing. This car has made it through relatively unscathed, though it does have a few aftermarket upgrades, and some things that need attention. This car is owned by my father's car dealership, so I am selling it on behalf of the dealership, but it has been one of my personal projects. I really like these old DSMs and was surprised to find one in this condition. I really wanted to keep it and fix it up, but I have 5 other project cars, and now that I work 6 days a week, I just don't have the time for this extra one. This is a 1991 Talon TSI, with the 2.0L turbo 4G63 engine, 5-spd manual transmission, and all-wheel drive. Being a 1991 model, it has the stronger, 6-bolt version of the 4G63 that everyone wants. Its 2-tone black and silver paint looks good, and some Mitsubish 17” wheels have been put on that, despite being stock items, really look good on the car. This car has power windows, power locks, and cruise control. It currently has 177,752 miles showing on the odometer. This car also has the pop-up headlights. Personally, I love driving cars with pop-up headlights, and it's a shame that they have become a thing of the past. Being over 20 years old, this car qualifies for historic status in Maryland, which means cheap registration and cheap insurance! The engine runs well, with no taps or knocks. Some standard DSM mods are present under the hood. The stock airbox has been cut out, and a K&N air filter installed, which I recently cleaned and re-oiled. There is a CX Racing aluminum radiator, an All Star Performance oil breather tank, and a manual boost controller. The car has a stock BOV, but there is also a spare stock BOV that is crushed. Aftermarket exhaust from the manifold back – no cat. It looks like the exhaust manifold and turbo have been off at some point (possibly for porting?). There is a braided steel oil line to the turbo. There was previously a front-mount oil cooler on the car that has been removed, and a loop of hose put between the ports, so installing another would be an easy task. The A/C compressor and condenser have been removed, as well as the power-steering. Inside the car are aftermarket oil pressure and boost gauges. There are cross-drilled rotors on the front brakes as well. When I got this car, the KYB GR2 strut / stiff spring combo it had on was worn out and was killing my back, so I bought a brand new set of Tein Super Street coilovers with adjustable mounts on the front and installed them. Now, the car has that nice lowered look, and better handling, but doesn't shake every bolt loose and damage your spine when you go over a few bumps in the road. These coilovers should last a long time and being Teins, they are rebuildable. I installed new brake hoses, and bled the braking system. I also rebuilt the clutch master cylinder, installed a new clutch slave cylinder, and bled the clutch system. The interior of the car does show its age, and while it is by no means trashed or ratty, it could use some attention. The dash and door panels are OK, but need a clean-up, the carpet has some stains, the seats need to be oiled and cleaned, there are some scratches on the side panels in the back, the headliner has been removed, and the driver's seat does have some deep cracks and a few small tears in it. Also, the previous owner removed the radio. I think with a new headliner and a proper detailing, the interior would be pretty nice. The driver's seat could be replaced or just covered, it is not uncomfortable to sit in as it is. Problems: It is inevitable that a car of this age is going to have a few problems, and this car is no different, but given the type of car it is, and the problems that most of these DSMs out there for sale have, the problems on this car are relatively minor. The main problem with this car is the clutch. This car has had a heavy duty clutch (probably a 2600 lb single plate) installed by a previous owner, and now has the typical DSM problem where the clutch engages when the clutch pedal is lifted only about 1 inch off the floor. If you check the forums, you'll see many posts about DSMs with this problem. You can get quick fixes for it like an extended slave cylinder piston, but the best thing to do is to find the underlying problem. Possibilities include: a worn out master or slave cylinder, air in the clutch line, clutch master cylinder piston adjusted too far in or out, a bent clutch pedal, a bent or cracked clutch pedal mounting braket, a bent clutch fork or a bent / worn pivot ball. Following the "proper fix" route, I have rebuilt the clutch master cylinder and replaced the slave cylinder, and had the clutch line bled. This made a mild improvement, but did not fix the problem. I sent the car in to a local shop to have them replace the clutch fork and pivot ball, but they said that they thought the problem was a bent clutch pedal or mounting bracket and that I should try fixing those before opening up the transmission. That was about the point where I started running out of free time, and had to re-evaluate the number of car projects I could handle. There are specially reinforced clutch pedal mounting brackets available online for these cars, there are also plenty of threads on how to put shims under the pivot ball without dropping the transmission, so a capable person with a bit of time should be able to fix this over the course of a weekend and have a great running car, I just don't have the time anymore. In addition to the clutch, the shifter linkage needs adjustment, or maybe needs new bushings. I haven't done this before but I don't think it's a tough job. The shifter feels very tight, it is hard to move side to side when in neutral, and you have to take care that you are going into the correct gear when shifting. This car is still drivable and I have taken it around the neighborhood and surrounding areas, and driven it to work a few times, but the combination of the clutch engagement problem and the shifter linkage problem makes it a little challenging to drive. You really have to press the clutch pedal to the floor to avoid grinding a gear. Once these two problems are fixed, it will be a great driver's car. Most importantly, the synchros are good. I have owned a DSM with bad synchros in the past, so I can tell the difference. The remaining problems with the car are pretty minor: the interior needs a clean-up, the radio is missing, the trim piece on the outside of the passenger's door is loose, and sometimes the driver's side pop-up headlight sticks halfway up or down. The paint looks decent, but has little chips and scratches that are to be expected for a car of this age. **This is a really neat car, and finding one of these old DSMs in this condition is difficult nowadays. It's unfortunate that I don't have the time for it, but I would rather pass it on to someone that does, than have it sit under a cover in the driveway and deteriorate. I am putting a low reserve on the car, it is very reasonable, especially considering that this car has a brand new set of Tein coilovers. If this low reserve does not get met, then I will rethink selling it, and I will not re-list on here. PLEASE READ: Bidders with zero or negative feedback, and overseas bidders, must contact me prior to bidding – I will delete your bids otherwise. Don't bid without contacting me and then send me an angry email when you find that your bid is gone and you've been blocked from the auction!! This car is sold AS IS, with NO WARRANTY. Please examine the supersized photos, and contact me if you have any questions. Serious bidders are welcome to come see the car, just give me notice a day ahead of time so I can adjust my schedule. I will be off work on Thursday and available to show people the car all that day. I will be working all of Friday, so if you wait until Friday, and want to see the car before the auction ends, I probably will not be able to accommodate you. Since this car is being sold by a dealership, if the buyer has a valid driver's license and proof of insurance, a 2-month temp. tag can be supplied at an additional cost of $35. Maryland Residents: This car is not MD-state inspected. It is over 20 years old, so if the buyer is a MD resident, the car will be sold as historic. This car is owned by Chesaco Car Company, a MD car dealership, so if the buyer is a MD resident, then the State of MD requires that my dad collect a tax of 6% of the sale price. Also, for MD residents the MVA requires that the title be processed through the MVA, at a cost of $100, which will be added to the auction price. These costs are imposed on MD residents by the government - not my dad! They do not apply if the winning bidder is not a Maryland resident. Payment is to be made in CASH at pick-up. Winning bidder must contact me within 24 hours of the end of the auction. The car must be picked up within 1 week of the end of the auction.