1971 Triumph

GT6 Coupe

6 - Cyl.

Manual

KF2505L

Gasoline

I'm selling my Triumph GT6 daily driver. I purchased the car on eBay with 59k miles and now it's about 77k miles. I've done a lot of mechanical work to ensure the car is reliable. However, the car is beginning to rust and will need floor pans asap. My intention was to prepare the car for autocrossing while keeping it as a daily driver. Below are the items and list of work done within the past 2 years: Front Suspension: 1) Control Arms: Completely rebuilt with new lower control arms (the old control arms had oblonged mounting holes). Replaced all bushings with new polyurethane bushings from the Roadster Factory and replaced all of the hardware. The upper control arms were in good shape so I just painted them and replaced the bushings and upper ball joints. 2) Shocks: Adjustable SPAX shocks 3) Springs: New TriumphTune Springs rated at 400lbs. 400lbs is a great balance between comfort and performance. 4) Front Sway Bar: Replaced all bushings, hardware, and end links but kept the stock sway bar (just cleaned and repainted the bar) 5) Alloy front hubs: replaced the old heavy hubs with new alloy hubs from Canley Classics of England (canleyclassics) Also used Timken bearings. Rear Suspension: 1) Alloy lower control arms and alloy vertical links from Canley Classics. 2) CV joint axles replaced the old, heavier rotoflex units (this was a big improvement in the GT6's historically weak rear-end) 3) SPAX shocks in the rear are used and relocated for better suspension travel. 4) Rear transverse leaf spring is new with a half-inch alloy lowering block to bring down the center-of-gravity Brakes: 1) Front Brakes: Rebuilt the front calipers with stainless pistons and using EBC Green pads. 2) Rear Brakes: stock GT6 drums are used with new shoes and all new hardware. Also painted the drums and backing plates black. Brake & Clutch master cylinders have been replaced and bled with Castrol DOT 4 fluid. Wheels & Tires: 13" mini-lights with Firestone tires purchased in May 2010. Engine: Motor is the original Triumph 2 Liter and runs strong. After warmup, the car idles at 40lbs and is in the 50-60lb range at highway speeds. All ignition items are new with new AC Delco points and cap. NGK spark plugs work well in this car. Valves have been adjusted and make the noise you would expect from a solid-lifter car with 77k miles. However, there isn't a need for a valve job at this time. The valve cover is nicely chromed and the car still has the stock Strombergs with K&N air filters. An Ultima red top battery ensures the car starts in the cold, however the choke is always required to start the car year around. Transmission & Differential: No overdrive on this car. I use Redline MTL oil in the 4 speed manual and Redline 90w in the differential. The differential had all new seals replaced recently and was repainted black. The car shifts nicely in all gears including reverse. If I kept the car, I would replace the stock 3.89 rear end with a 3.27 to help with highway cruising. The motor revs at 4k rpm to keep up with traffic on my local interstate. Cooling system: Griffen aluminum radiator is used with the stock Triumph water pump and 160 degree thermostat. All hoses and belts are in good shape and have been renewed within the past 2 years. Interior: The dash, seats, and carpet are all stock Triumph and in good shape. The gauges work except for the speedometer. The odometer actually works but not the speedometer. The fuel gauge works but is not very accurate. The fuel gauge stops reading when the level is below a quarter tank- so I'm always quick to keep the tank topped off. I use the wipers, defroster, and heater regularly lately. The passenger window knob has fallen off but I have a replacement handle and knob for the car. The dome light and dash lights all work fine. There is a cleanly installed Sony CD stereo player that's not pictured with a hidden speaker under the dash. Steering: New 15" Moto Lita steering wheel replaced the old Triumph unit. I also purchased and installed a new quick-ratio steering rack (2.5 turns lock-to-lock) and this really helped make the car responsive. Also replaced the universal joint where the rack mates up with the column with a more-modern version that won't wear out anytime soon. Of course the tie-rod ends were replaced with units from the Roadster Factory. Body: This is the bad part of the car and the reason I no longer want to daily drive the car. It's very rainy in Tennessee and it's starting to take it's toll. There are rust spots starting to develop on several parts of the body (please see pictures). The drivers-side floor pan has rusted through but it's in a spot where your feet won't go through the floor. Floor pans and the other body panels are all available from several parts houses, but I'm not able to do that kind of work. I'm a Triumph fan and wish to be completely forthright with all bidders. Please feel free to email or call with any questions. The car is a lot of fun to drive and is easy to keep maintained. Thanks for looking! Dave (615) 306-5887 http://youtu.be/rK36a8z8lLE http://youtu.be/15MX7UuaOLc On Dec-19-11 at 06:26:45 PST, seller added the following information: The rear-end ratio is actually a 3.27. With the speedometer broken, I must be doing closer to 80mph (4k-4.2k rpm) to keep up with the loosley regulated speed limits on TN's interstates. Even school buses and moving trucks are doing 75-80mph on I-65. Sorry for the confusion, George Ross of Ross Restorations replaced the seals when he put in the new Canley CV joints this past month. Thanks for the email everyone. Rust- water was getting on the driver-side floor from the wiper base, I've since sealed it up but the water did create a rusty hole on a spot where fortunately the weight of your feet is away from it. I'll get a better picture of this and will attach. On Dec-23-11 at 12:39:28 PST, seller added the following information: I've received a few additional questions: 1) Have the front stub axles been replaced? Yes, I had new stub axles pressed into the vertical links when the front was rebuilt. 2) Do both drivers and passenger side floor pans need replaced? No, only the driver's side floor pan will need replaced or patched. 3) Headliner. The headliner condition is good and the dome light works. I've reached the eBay limit of 24 pictures, however please send ask a question through ebay (or ask a question), and I can send additional pictures to your email account. Thanks, Dave