1962 Renault

Sedan

4 - Cyl.

Manual

2906692

Gasoline

If you ever wanted to build a Gordini clone, here's your car. If you ever wanted to build a nice R8, here's your car. I bought this from Michigan in 2003. It was parked covered in 1965, and hasn't been touched since. Engine is stuck, brakes are flat, fuel and cooling systems will need resurrection; in short, everything you would need to do a full restoration can be expected. This car does not run, and will require more than a gas can and a battery charger to get going. There is also some rust, the kind that happens from just sitting around in Michigan. It's non-fatal, and all items needing attention will be fully described. The bright side is that it's a no accidents, absolutely complete, never badwrenched, original paint 35K car. First pictures are taken in the corner of the warehouse I have yet to pull it out of; given the amount of description and photography required to accurately represent this car, I will need to get it out and up on jackstands over this coming weekend. For now, I'm just establishing an end time 10 days away - Please click Watch this Item, and everything you want to know will be added. Winning bidder can store inside the warehouse 30 days free of charge, if you need more time, we'll talk. Interstate car carriers appreciate the easy pickup zone (and the size and weight of these cars), right next to I-25 in Denver. Thanks for Looking! Dan LarsonOn Aug-05-11 at 16:43:06 PDT, seller added the following information: 8/5/11 Thank You for waiting. If you could see how this came to the front of the building, you might even forgive the delay. It's not up on jackstands yet, but at least now you can get a better idea of overall condition, with specific pictures of the rust I warned about. I'm definitely spoiled by the dry Colorado climate, and the healing effects of the burning sun (5000 feet closer than most) on sheetmetal here in the Rocky Mountains. People from other climates might consider this car a beauty, but I'm accustomed to no rust repair at all. I'm also used to seeing every last bit of fabric and rubber burnt to a crisp out here, so the condition of the interior on this car is the other side of the coin; covered up in a more humid climate, everything has survived nicely. I will do the jackstand part tomorrow, and include engine and interior shots too. For now, there are four specific shots of rust areas, and I'm sure more to follow. Anyone bidding up to this point is encouraged to retract their bid if the new pictures show the car to be something you don't want. I'm not trying to sell the car - it's already gone from the moment the first bidder hit at $9.99. Now my efforts are aimed at showing everything about the car, good or bad, to ensure that you are bidding on something more than hope and imagination. I appreciate your time! DanOn Aug-06-11 at 18:24:18 PDT, seller added the following information: 8/6/2011 Here are the worst shots I could find for underbody rust. I will add detailed description after this evenings hockey game. A guy's got to have priorities, after all.On Aug-07-11 at 00:16:34 PDT, seller added the following information: Okay, it's my opinion that the car is saveable, not a parts car. The area under the heater is perfect, original paint intact. The rust is mainly confined to the light sheetmetal which caps the side channels. The channels, which provide the foundation for the unibody, are still sound, and have sufficient thickness to accept a weld when repairing the caps.The formed "C" shape of the channels is intact, meaning that only the flats which cover the open channel are in need of repair. While not a pleasant or rewarding job, I believe it can be handled with a light mig welder, a Beverly shear, a flanger, and some 18 gauge cold rolled steel. If any of these terms or processes are unfamiliar to you, this is not the car for you. If you have an aversion to making multiple patch panels, this car is not for you. The nature of the rust on this car is different because it occurred from humidity while sitting, not from salt and road spray. Thus, the areas you would expect to be rusted are clean, and instead has it in areas where entrapped humidity met unprotected steel, like inside channels and upper fender seams. The pans are undercoated, and are solid enough to stand on; no rust at all. Door and fender lower edges are clean, and wear original shiny paint. The true extent of the repairs is shown in the wheelwell shots; note that the inner fenderwell sheetmetal drapes down over the channel, and welds to the flat flanges to enclose the channel - except where it's rusted away. In those areas, you will note that the flanges and channel are intact. The rust summary is this: Not pleasant, but not fatal. I had considered adding another R8 to the auction, if it became necessary to provide donor parts, but the repairs don't require any complex shapes. If you are capable of grafting sheetmetal parts from one car to another, you already have the skills to make these repairs with ordinary strips of flat light gauge metal. Now to the plus side - The same conditions that caused the sheetmetal damage were very kind to the rest of the car. The seats, dash and headliner are very nice, not needing any restoration at all. The bumpers and trim are clean and solid. In fact, this car is original down to the last nut and bolt, with nothing missing, altered, or damaged, except by inactivity and climate. All controls, switches, handles, knobs, weatherstripping, floormats, glass, lenses, and trim are in 35K original shape. The original protective plastic still covers the drivers door panel. If you already have an R8 and are thinking of this for parts, well, you would have every single part in good condition. period. This is a great looking little car, I'm just making sure you're aware of the problems that are not so visible. A few specific issues as follow: RF fender trim is pulled away at the leading edge, but not kinked. The plastic Renault diamond front emblem is missing its lower half. The drivers door trim has the customary small crink from opening the door too hard. The original muffler has lost its shell entirely; if you are restoring, I will include a good replacement. Wheels and tires are unattractive rollers only, but the car rolls freely and I've not had to add air in eight years. There are a few small dents on the hood and decklid, which I could pop out with my hand, but I'll leave the bodywork to you. The rear axle retaining straps have disintegrated over time; I can provide fresh parts made from bandsawn conveyor belt material if you're not concerned with authenticity. They work fine on my other Renaults. The steering wheel is discolored, and has gaps from shrinkage, but can be restored - it's still solid. Steering, shifter, and controls are smooth and precise. Though I had considerable difficulty in removing the stuck brake calipers, the bearings, hubs, seals, and boots are all in clean working order. Discs will likely need replacement, as they are pitted and non-turnable. In summary, this one's a keeper. My snobbery about the rust is just that - you could likely bring this car back to life as-is, and it's not going to cave in on you. Your feet won't go through the floor, and there are no places with daylight shining through. The mileage is true, and it shows. It is a rolling parts department if that's all you need, but I believe it can be made into a very nice car, even by an amateur restorer. Though I won't be allowed to add any info or pics after Sunday morning, I can still answer questions and send pics if you include your email. Your bids may now be retracted or increased on an informed basis. Thanks for your patience - I couldn't provide answers until I looked it over as if I were buying it for myself. Good Luck Bidding! Dan