1970 Chevrolet Chevelle

Super Sport Coupe

396

Manual

1363370A10462

Clear

Gasoline

Hello Chevellophiles! This auction (I will not give out the reserve!) is for a 1970 Chevelle with the L78 engine (396 CI w/375HP). I have owned the car since September of 2003. It was delivered with 29413 miles on the odometer; it now has 32568 which represent about 300 miles per year. I will not use adjectives like “awesome” (the Grand Canyon & Great wall are more deserving of the moniker), “born” (it was "produced" on Oct, 21st 1969 in Atlanta GA), since it is, a car, but in this case, a rare investment. There are a few hundred LS6 cars out there for sale on any given day. I suspect a few more then actually were manufactured, aka: 67 Tri Carb Vettes and 69 1/2 Z-28’s. Even the $100K cars have flaws, for example the radio ground (Page 878 of the ASM) is never on any of them. My 1394 EBAY positives selling rusty Chevelle and Corvette parts to other lunatic/correctophile nut jobs like myself has proven to be a highly education task. There is no pleasing this crowd. (Note the questions I am going to get regarding the always life altering car show fist fights of how Kansas City made Chevelles with subtle production nuances versus Atlanta Chevelles. I was in college on the 21st of October 1969 and driving a 1965 Plymouth.***Please note that if you challenge some of my assertions please include the page of the assembly manual, a picture of you standing in front of your L78 or LS6 and a recent copy of USA today showing proof of life and ownership of your car while holding the build sheet. Knowing somebody with one does not give you street cred. Sniping, via email lacks courage. Just have fun reading this ad and put this process in it's proper historical context, for Gods sake it's a car, not life or death. Take notes kids: I have original build sheet (see picture) it is old and yellow but I took the picture. The block is replacement CE/CKO and the heads set for unleaded gas. In every way I tried my damndest to adhere to my very dog eared assembly manual. I have about 25 lbs of other books, journals and receipts that will be in the trunk of your investment. I trudged the junk yards in five states to get OEM parts whenever possible, and sold the duplicates on Ebay. So, the fan, coil, alternator, oil cap, radiator cap, clips etc. are OEM. The block is a CE/CKO (402 4 speed)factory warranty replacement and the heads set up for unleaded gas. I am too stooped to rig stuff regardless, and commons sense dictates that “rigging” while lending individuality, always decreases the value. While it's fun to buy $500 in chrome at WalMart, you will need to find people to admire your egocentric handiwork. It's a hell of a lot harder to go OEM, ***junkyards are lousy with woodticks, wasps and lack proper restroom facilities. I consistently rebuild the damn Holley carb every spring. Have the OEM alternator, fuel pump, (changed out all the fuel lines), replaced the fuel tank, correct exhaust system (with resonators) added an NOS AM Radio. Annually change all fluids, drained the tank, and blew out the fuel lines. Use Teflon gaskets on the bowls of the ridiculously expensive 4557 correct Holley. Car has console, buckets added by the previous owners. ***I can tell you of a few junk yards in Minnesota and North Dakota where you can get a snazzy bench seat. The paint is over 15 years old, as is the bright work. There is NO-END to what a person can spend on paint. If you plan to drive it, keep this in mind. ***It will go down the road just swell with its current paint. It will save you the consternation when the dope who leans over the driver side fender with his large Harley Belt-buckle and puts the first, deep, belly induced scratch on your treasure. Or Little Bobby hits it with the handlebar of his bike at the local street car show. ***Fender protectors with “Chevelle” on them included with the sale). The car is a high end driver, you cannot eat off the chassis as it is dealer rustproofed. My aforementioned lack of a life did not include this painstaking removal process for a driver. I have never been to a car show where the couple with the lawn chairs (that match the paint on the car) were dining off the rotisserie floor (light, dull red ) pan. These 900mg lithium control types always have that “Look but Don’t Touch” sign on their life defining Chevelle. ***Caution! If you point out the wrong color on the brake booster bracket (it is gold cad) they will rise up and strike you or show up later at your house and try and kill your dog. Note: My dog is an unneutered German Shepard, who answers to commands only in German. So he treats the Chevelle like a German Shepard. Visually offensive & Non-correct, ***(because you love to keep score): The Brake booster is a repop with Delco Moraine on it, but it should be upside down on the passenger side. The radiator is a four row but not OEM. The water pump has a 1970 code date. The radiator cap in the picture (opps) is the stainless RC15 replacement. I have the correct galvanized cap (OEM). There is a reason they went to stainless steel since the galvanized caps warp and rust and the antifreeze spills on mother earth. The fenders and quarters were replaced at some point. They are not laser straight but passable for the local show and shine. I replaced the hinges. ***Fun Fact The 1970 Impala hinge is the same, soak them in acid, repaint and serve cold with a dash of gray or flat semi gloss black...Yes, the height of the SS emblems appears to be 2.1334 inches too high. There is a small dent (3/4" long/ 1/4")on the driver side leading edge of the hood. The alternator bolt is wrong, it has been corrected. I woke up screaming after I had time to reflect on this gross and obvious photographic transgression. The battery is modern with a Delco cover, but with the correct spring battery cables. The power steering was also added a some point. ***Unplug the dash clock, it will slowly kill the battery, strand you and or embarrass you to get a jump from say, a Road Runner without a clock. I also had the Hemi disease in the mid 90's. *** Try to never sit in front of your computer late into the lonely night (with the tin foil hat) and carefully scan the pictures of my or other Ebay Chevelles for flaws. I for one, do not email the owners/dealers with specious insults and technical email critiques. Lynn & Bernie raised me to be polite. I wish everyone selling their cars only the best of success. Since the 2003 purchase, all the wiring harnesses have been replaced, tires, brakes, gas tank, exhaust system, carpet, headliner, brake lines, fuel lines, alternator, fan, fuel pump, horn relay, voltage regulator, dash, radio, speakers and anything else that could catch fire or contribute to one. I am a bleeder and a coward. I have a large pile of receipts which will also be yours to fondle, review and profit from my many purchase mistakes, ***which means you do not have to repeat them in your quest for the 1000 point car to trailer to Pebble Beach. *** Flags for "Tributes" detection on 1970 Chevelles...On “L78 & LS6 cars: The oil cap should be chrome with a small SE stamp on it. The dip stick should have a small yellow tip and natural steel. The radiator cap needs to be galvanized not stainless with a strong script on the cap. The radiator top cover should have a reinforcement tap on the driver side ( the repops miss this little test as do restorers). The 4 speed knob is chrome, (there is a nice diagram on the console if you get confused). The distributor cap should have Patent Pending and a small R to note resistor plugs, but no Patent Number. The 4557 Holley has a little round rubber air cover on the front bowl. The L78 & LS6 engine have solid, not hydraulic lifters. They are externally exactly the same except for 52 cubic inches. (You can buy a set of 454 emblems in you have size issues) ***The distributor patent was issued in 1957 and ran for 17 years. Trust me, I have a Patent and this crap costs lost of money. You can buy these caps for a few hundred. See? There is no end to it. Most of your "correct" touch point comments at a car show to the great unwashed will get you an “OH/ HUH?,” or a punch in the moosh if you point it out. Price out things that have L78 or LS6 exclusive on Ebay,*** it is heartstopping to see what a "correct" radiator cap or holley will cost you, (once again reap profits from my stoopidity/and OCD 1970 Chevelle syndrome). I do not need a trade nor will I entertain the concept of trading me your 1970 Duster with a blower motor that cost $20K or whatever POS your wife wants you to get rid of... or she will apply the “Female Fun Limitation Factor” and you know what that means. In the long standing tradition of Barrett Jackson, personal integrity, honor and duty. I WILL NOT GIVE OUT THE RESERVE! I WILL NOT GIVE OUT THE RESERVE! I WILL NOT GIVE OUT THE RESERVE! Nor will I inkle, allude or even return an email. Just do your homework and bid. Otherwise leave me alone, there are lots of Chevelles for sale with buy it now which never get a bid. Buy one. If your boss got you sleeping at the dealership do not email me for a price; offer marketing/canny adjective & script placement advice or your world renowned consignment services, selling cars in Qatar. Besides, your overseas types seem to favor the Toyota pickup for the daily ambush and as a machine gun mount. Please, have at least successful 10 EBay bids and the spotless record I enjoy before you low ball me. Check KBB for a price range on this model/ power train combination (but KBB does not have a L78 box to click). That will give you an unbiased baseline to ferret out the reserve. Not a bad idea regardless to put some objectivity into this subjective process. The KBB price range by the way is low $22072 and average retail at $60555 (no L78box to check since the damn things are so rare). Haggerty has it an average of $51,882. hit the (CKO 402 L78 4SP) ( The block is CKO/CE). As I wrote, the paint is over 15 years old, I have no clue when various body parts were replaced. It is a Haggerty NUMBER 4 on the body meter and a NUMBER 3 on the objective & techno chart. A restoration will result in a $90K car. Keep that in mind when you bid for this one or any car for that matter, note the interesting pictures offered as a precursor to a full restoration of any of legitimate collector/low production volume car like this one, with a build sheet. Your banker or your wife will be impressed at your financial prowess. Car is resting in Vadnais Heights, Minnesota, in a heated garage, all by its lonesome, surrounded by all kinds of extra little annoying parts, clips etc. The price of these items in the trunk will exceed and save you about $2000 when you restore it to a Number 1 car. I wish I had the time to do it, but I am starting a company based on a patent and need the money and the space. Specific, rational questions will be answered and posted. But this ad is not intended to be 1970 Chevelle version of “JEOPARDY”, a forum, blog for the curious or argumenitive. If you have any general questions please contact the several websites where you can amass and then spreadsheet the variances regarding eccentricities of this bucket of bolts. Chevrolet made 442,406 Chevelles for 1970, of those 2144 were L78's. When you show up do not expect to redo the bid you made with a lower certified check and a wad of cash, I have some experience in this form of after the fact format. Let your wife know you are bidding and bid with your head not your heart. It is a rare car with excellent ROI potential. Good luck. Uncle Johnny (jjj315) On Aug-08-15 at 16:16:48 PDT, seller added the following information: Good day! A canny e-bayer noted my vin had an extra "3". Note my "stooped" self depreciating reference regarding "rigging". The CORRECTv in is 13637OA104662. Back to junior college...another 3 years and I will receive the basket-weaving degree. Sorry for my faux pas, Uncle JohnnyOn Aug-14-15 at 17:54:38 PDT, seller added the following information: Okay Kids, I took off the reserve for the final two days, the next bid is the high & winning bid. So the chum is now in the water. Uncle Johnny