2001 Volkswagen Cabrio

GLS Convertible

2.0L 1984CC 121Cu. In. l4 GAS SOHC Naturally Aspir

Manual (5 sp.)

3VWCC21V51M801285

Clear

Gasoline

The VW Cabrio--a brief introduction to what you're thinking of getting into... 1. This is a *very* old design. It is basically a Golf Mk3 (date of introduction: 1991) which has body parts borrowed from the Mk4. The good news is that this car shares a lot of parts with the regular Golf Mk3, and VW made more than a million of those. The bad news is, it doesn't share *all* of the parts, of course. 2. The motor's design is even older than that of the rest of the car.3. This was not a reliable car when it was new. For example, it was always on Consumer Reports' list of "Used Cars to Avoid."4. It was built in VW's Puebla plant, which, for many years, had a reputation for toxic labor-management relations. For more, simply search Wikipedia for Golf Mk3. Are you the right person for this car? 1. Do you need reliable, comfortable daily transportation for use in all weather? If yes, then this is not your car.2. Do you want a modern car, with a smooth, powerful and efficient motor, a sophisticated suspension, good HVAC and other conveniences? If yes, then, again, this is not your car. On the other hand. . . 1. If you are a VW mechanic, or2. A mechanic with some willingness to figure out how VWs work and a willingness to pay dealership prices for parts, or 3. If you live near a good independent VW shop (VW only, or VW/Audi; "We specialize in foreign cars" won't do it--trust me), and you would be willing to spend $2,500 to put this back in reasonable shape (clutch up to $750; timing belt with other stuff, same; a/c could be $100 (recharge) could be $1,200+ (more serious issues with compressor, etc.)), more if you want it great (see condition description: windshield, cruise control, top, etc.), then this could be the car for you, if you crave a *convertible*. Here are the good points of the car: 1. *Very* low miles for a car of this age. It has been the "second car" for me and the previous owner (whom I know), and, I surmise, for the first owner as well. Time and original build quality are the issues, not miles. 2. New-er Michelin tires (<15,000 miles on them)3. When the weather is nice, and you put the top down, it's a lot of fun: nimble and quick enough, because it's not heavy. Further warnings: 1. The car suffered a fender-bender three years ago. This necessitated the replacement of the left-rear quarterpanel. The work was done by the VW dealer to a high standard (though that panel has since suffered a parking-lot ding). The car was still drivable after the accident. 2. See the condition description elsewhere for the bigger items. I ran out of space, so I would be happy to elaborate on any of these--just send an e-mail. 3. Here are problems that could be allowed to fester, depending on your taste and tolerance: Windshield crack (It's on the passenger side, and it has turned back towards that side of the car.) Driver’s seat heat: on or off--no adjustment (I just turn it on and off as my bum burns/freezes. Seat heat is the key to winter use.) HVAC airdoor foam is disintegrating, so it's not possible to have *all* the air come through one set of vents. No matter the setting, some air comes through all vents all the time. Oil leaks through valve-cover gasket when motor is run hard/is hot: smells bad, but the amounts are so small that there is no visible smoke. The quote I got from the dealer for replacing the gasket was so outrageous that I decided simply to ignore this. Cruise control doesn't work--at all. On the other hand, this is not a good highway car. It's better than a Jeep CJ, but, as you know, that's not saying much. So, cruise control isn't strictly necessary. 4. Here are problems you should know about but may not want to fix: The interior power-lock buttons are broken. (I replaced both of these, but both broke again.) The overhead interior light doesn't work. The trunk can't be opened manually. You must use the key fob, or the button on the center console. The key fobs aren't in good condition. One works, but looks bad. The other doesn't work & looks bad. The CD changer (in trunk) works, but skips tracks sometimes. The passenger seatback doesn't lock in place always. About a third of the rear-window defogger wires don't work. (The rear window is glass, which is a huge advantage in a convertible: you can see through it!) The roof leaks around the window seals unless you lower all the windows slightly, then raise them. (Doing this puts the rubber on the door surrounds *outside* the window glass. If it's inside, then rain gets in.) 5. Here is a further advisory regarding condition: The interior is worn. I replaced the lower seat cushions on the front seats, but the seat fabric shows wear and a few stains. The carpet is looking a bit threadbare (I will include my floor mats, both rubber and carpet). The rear-seat cupholder is broken. The exterior has hail damage. I would call this "moderate." It's not bad enough that I wanted to make an insurance claim. There are also various dings and scratches, some of which are depicted here. Remember: the car is 15 years old. There may be other smaller problems that I have not noted here; I've kept a note pad in the car since I decided to sell, but everything may not have come to my attention yet. 6. Random facts. I am the third owner. The second owner is (still) a friend. She bought it from an eBay seller. Each of us owned the car for roughly five years. I am selling the car because we have three kids who are on the verge of driving. This is not a good car for a new driver. One medium-sized mistake, made by you or the other guy, and you're dead. You're low, you weigh less than 3,000#, and you have limited structural integrity, thanks to the lack of a steel roof.