Detail Info for: Fiat : Other Spider 1978 FIAT 124 SPIDER 72K LOW MILES! BWA RIMS GORGEOUS GARAGED RUNS GREAT ALFA

Transaction Info

Sold On:
06/14/2012
Price:
$ 2676.26
Condition:
Mileage:
72634
Location:
Charlotte, NC, 28205
Seller Type:

Vehicle Specification

Year Make Model:
1978 Fiat Other
Submodel Body Type:
Engine:
1800cc
Transmission:
VIN:
124CS10129196
Vehicle Title:
Drive Train:
Fuel Type:
Standard Equipment:
Optional Equipment:

Vehicle Detail

You are bidding on one 1978 FIAT 124 Spider 1800cc 5 Speed in very good condition. 72K original miles. No wrecks ever. VERY SOLID EXAMPLE. Father and son family pleasure car for a very long time. Gorgeous 14 INCH BWA rims in excellent condition, Weber Carburetor, Aftermarket header. A high quality paint job was done around 15 years ago and has held up very well as this has been garaged it's entire life. Runs great, drives great. It only needs a few minor things attended to to get it up to tip-top condition. New Parts Installed: Battery, Gas Tank, Radiator, Timing Belt, Header, Plug Wires. Here are the details: I HAVE THIS PRICED TO SELL TO FUND ANOTHER PROJECT. THANKS. PICTURES OF CONVERTIBLE TOP ARE IN PHOTOBUCKET. CLICK THE LINK FOLKS TO SEE PICTURES OF CONVERTIBLE TOP. I TOOK NEW PHOTOS OF IT TONIGHT AND PUT THEM AT THE BEGINNING OF PHOTOS. TOP IS IN FAIR TO GOOD CONDITION, FUNCTIONS FINE, NO RIPS, NO TEARS, BUT WINDOW IS CLOUDED SOME. TONS OF PHOTOS AND VIDEO HERE: http://s200.photobucket.com/albums/aa267/velocejoe/FIAT%20124%201978/ P.S. I have a complete 2 liter project engine available for purchase to the winning bidder, or anyone else, if interested, an extra transmission in good order and 2 extra parts transmissions as well as some other cool performance stuff, sway bars, springs, etc. The pictures of all extra parts are at the end of the photobucket page. ENGINE: COMPRESSION IS 140-135-135-135 front to back COLD. No leaks. Runs extremely well. Holds temperature, etc. Electric auxiliary fan functioning properly. SEE VIDEO!! The EGR stuff is still hooked up, but is easy to remove, never got around to it. Exhaust is functioning but is old. Still has the original catalytic converter and still runs great! NEW: RADIATOR, HEADER, PLUG WIRES, BATTERY, GAS TANK AND TIMING BELT. TRANSMISSION: No 2nd gear grinding. Syncros all in perfect order. Shifts perfect. BODY: Panel gaps are perfect. Hood pins were installed at some point which look cool, but I would have left it alone. Paint has held up very well over the years. Only superficial spots of surface rust have popped up and are shown in photos. Paint is in great condition. I HAVE NOT EVEN WAXED IT! A good wax job and this thing will gleam. To get the paint in perfect condition I would have someone just touch up the surface rust areas and you will have something very special. Top is in decent condition. Rear window is clouding, but top is free of rips or tears and functions great. I never drive it in the rain. The passenger side convertible top boot hold down is missing. Driver side mirror is missing. I have the driver side vent window latch. Just needs to be glued back on. Spare tire is missing. CHASSIS: I have seen plenty of these on here lately and NO ONE SHOWS YOU THE UNDERSIDE. If you know these cars, you know they are very susceptible to rust at the drive shaft supports and the floors. Drive shaft support area is solid as a rock, as the rest of the car. There are only 2 isolated areas of rust. The radiator had a slow leak at some point and caused the very center of the lower radiator support to rust. It is still solid, looks worse in pictures than it is. It would be very easy to cut out and weld in a new piece. The rest of the support is in great condition. I would say only 8" would need to be cut out, and that's being very liberal with my estimate. The front valance was cut at the bottom and could be either replaced entirely $192.00 part from Vick Auto, or a piece fabricated. The other area is a small spot under the outermost driver seat rail. It is still very solid, as I can stand on the rail and it doesn't move. I would simply patch this area with fiberglass or metal, very small area, very small. You can barely see it in the photo from up top. It is just to the outside of the outermost seat rail about 3/4 of the way back. Fix these two spots and you have a 100% solid chassis. Rockers solid. Sub-frame support solid. Floors solid. Trunk solid. All jack points and suspension mounts solid. Tires are old and should be replaced before any long distance highway driving. Current tires are 205/60-14. Brakes work well, but master cylinder could stand to be replaced. It feels like it should grab a little sooner than it does, but like I said, brakes work well like they are. I bled them down just to make sure there were no other issues. INTERIOR: Exactly as one would expect from a garaged 72K mile car. Very nice patina. Overall the interior presents very well. Most panels and plastic in good condition. Dash has three cracks above defrost outlets as most of these do. Door panels have been cut for speakers at some point and could be saved with a little care and attention. Dash wood in great condition. Console in good condition with a few small cracks at edge where heater controls are and one spot that you cannot see which is between driver seat and console. A thin carpet kit was installed at some point. Seats are in great shape except for a few spots on the driver seat. Rear plastic trim panels have a small place of separation near the top in the same area on each. See photos. Glove box is missing the latch. Radio is not original and powers up. No speakers hooked up, so not sure if it works. It's not a great radio anyway. ELECTRICAL: In very good order. All interior and exterior lights in working order. Clock does not work, big surprise. Only things not working are fuel level indicator(works sometimes) (low fuel light DOES work), heater fan, blinkers work here and there, when headlights are on. Blinkers work great with headlights off. I'm sure this is a ground issue, as I cleaned some of the grounds up a little and they worked better, but still not perfect yet. Electrical is not my forte, but with everything else working, I'm sure this is an easy fix. Heater controls are not hooked up for some reason. Heater core is hooked up to engine and it does not leak, so not sure why the heater controls are unhooked, but cables are there, just need to be hooked up. WHAT WOULD I DO: Replace tires and drive it!! Enjoy as you get it perfect, or just enjoy it as is. It is a blast to drive and cruises very well. OK HERE IS THE STUFF I HAVE TO STATE TO PROTECT MYSELF: CAR MUST BE PAID FOR IN FULL WITHIN 7 DAYS OF AUCTION END. PICKED UP WITHIN 14 DAYS OF AUCTION END, A $25 PER DAY STORAGE FEE WILL BE ASSESSED FOR EVERYDAY THEREAFTER. BUYER IS RESPONSIBLE FOR ALL SHIPPING ARRANGEMENTS. I CAN ASSIST WITH DELIVERY WITHIN A FEW HUNDRED(NOT THOUSANDS) OF MILES FOR A FEE. IF YOU HAVE ZERO OR NEGATIVE FEEDBACK, YOU MUST CONTACT ME BEFORE BIDDING, IF NOT YOUR BID WILL BE CANCELED, NO EXCEPTIONS!!!! Thanks and good luck. P.S. I have a complete 2 liter project engine available to the winning bidder if interested, an extra transmission in good order and 2 extra parts transmissions as well as some other cool performance stuff, sway bars, springs, etc.

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