1970 Ford Mustang

Coupe

8 - Cyl.

Automatic

0f*********

Gasoline

For sale is a 7-year family project that we are not going to finish. I have spent over $8,500 on this between hiring body work done and new parts. This does not include my time or the time of my friend who is a 20-year body man. I traded him a $3,500 Jeep for his work on the car. I will give as much detail as I can and you can go to Photobucket by way of the link below to see all 69 pictures I took of the car and it’s parts. http://s337.photobucket.com/albums/n387/Hoyt_Family/70%20Grande/ I bought this project almost 8 years ago in California for a father-son project. It started life as a 70 Grande Coupe, so it came with the Deluxe Interior and a rim-blow steering wheel. It is a 351 Cleveland 2 barrel, FMX transmission car with a 9” rear end using a 3.00 to 1(open) rear axle ratio. I do not have the data sticker information as the sticker was worn badly and difficult to read. Starting in 1970, Ford used stickers instead of metal data plates, darn. The left side of the car had been sideswiped, so I was going to need to replace the front portion of the left quarter panel, the left door and fender. Upon tearing the car down, I spotted rust in the back floor and right driver’s side pan, so I purchased a rust-free body and left door from Arizona. This was much easier than doing the surgery necessary to get the old body into shape. I have a friend that restored a 70 Boss 429, so I bought the original front fenders from him that have the factory rolled fender lip. On the right one, you can still see the outline of the Boss 429 stickers. The left fender needs a small repair panel down low behind the wheel, but it is an easy fix since it was just the outer skin and the structure behind it is just fine. The rest of the body has been stripped down to mostly metal and has had finishing putty applied and sanded almost completely. The body is extremely straight and 95% of the hard work has been done. It has been in a climate controlled shop, so there is not one bit of surface rust anywhere. The right floor pan was replaced due to a leaking heater core. The driver’s side pan has a small spot about the size of a silver dollar or a little larger that could be repaired. I was going to leave it alone as it has been treated. The original left door goes with the car and is repairable. We rotisseried the entire unibody and sandblasted the undercarriage. The body was not sandblasted, it has been “D A” sanded. The underside is detailed nicely and has red oxide primer where the factory had it and black paint/tar undercoating where the factory had it originally. It is very nicely detailed. The entire engine bay was taken to bare metal and painted, including under the cowl. The trunk drop-offs are great and nicely detailed as well. The trunk area is terrific. It is excellent structurally and needs a minor dusting or cleaning prior to re-assembly. The passenger side front apron was replaced and a new battery tray has been purchased. The core support is pretty much perfect. The hood and decklid are great and will need sanded and primed before painting. We installed a new taillight panel as the other had a gouge in it. The engine has had the cylinder heads rebuilt and been modified for unleaded gas. It ran great when we tore everything down; I drove the car a few miles to check the condition of the running gear. The transmission was rebuilt by Art Carr and has the sticker for it on the bellhousing. It shifted perfectly when removed. The engine and trans. have been sitting in my shop the entire time it has been out of the car. It is dusty and I had planned to change valve cover gaskets and detail it up nice before re-installing it. It has long-tube headers. I bought all new stainless header bolts for them. I have purchased hundreds of dollars of new parts for the car. The console has a piece missing out of it underneath the armrest pad, so I bought a good used console that will need repainted. You get both. I bought a good used radio bezel to replace the one that someone had cut up. I bought all new stainless brake lines; they are still in the box. If it hits the reserve, I will include a complete front end rebuild kit consisting of new upper and lower control arms. Otherwise, I will sell them to a friend that needs them for his project. It has already had them replaced at one point in the past, but I was going to do it again. I re-drilled the mounting holes for the upper control arms to 1 inch lower, similar to what Shelby used to do to improve handling. I bought a master body bolt kit (expensive!) and I have a 1970 body assembly manual somewhere here at the house. I had the seats re-upholstered in era-correct vinyl and cloth. The carpet is original and in pretty good shape. The rear bumper is great, the front bumper should be replaced. The hood has a few bumps on the leading edge that need straightened, nothing major. I have a brand new hood lip molding for it. The front and rear valances are good and I have a chin spoiler for the front. I also have a new 1 1/4" front sway bar kit in addition to the factory smaller one. I also purchased new 5-leaf rear springs and have completely detailed the rear end including new axle seals, gasket, paint, detailed drums and fresh fluid. Front and rear brakes are all good. The interior parts were disassembled and most of the small parts put into a plastic storage bag. Again, everything has been inside at all times. The door panels have a few cracks around the typical spots on the armrest portion. I removed the air conditioning as it wasn’t working and needed a lot of parts to repair it. The compressor was mounted in a place that made working on the engine difficult. The replacement unibody was a non-air car, so the firewall is fine now for non-air. You could add a Classic Auto Air system for less money than repairing the old system. The plenum was cracked and broken, so it was discarded. The dash pad was shot and disposed of. It will need a windshield; all of the other glass is intact and in good shape. I removed the bulky pain-in-the-butt California emissions stuff (not required in California any more due to the age), so it will need a new gas tank. I have the filler neck and cap. I’m sure this will generate lots of questions. You are welcome to call me with any questions as it is easier than answering them through emails I believe. My phone # is (406)539-4500. I would encourage anyone interested to look at the car first hand if possible or send someone to look at it for you. The car is very solid and an easy finish for someone with the skills and time to complete it. Due to family health issues and the need to help support our son who is an disabled Army veteran, I have lost motivation and the funds necessary to continue. I want it to go to someone who will make something great out of it. Dynacorn sells a kit to convert coupes into fastbacks or convertibles, so the possibilities are numerous if you don’t want to keep it a coupe. If you want to make an offer, let me know. Otherwise, I prefer to keep the reserve private; thank you for understanding. Check out my feedback; you will find I deal honestly with people. I will be out of town from May 4th until May 14th, so pickup would have to be arranged prior to or after those dates. I require a $500.00 PayPal deposit within 48 hours of auction end and full payment within 7 days of auction end by way of certified funds, bank wire transfer, or cash. Pickup is sole responsibility of buyer. Please bring a pickup and trailer to make sure you can get all the parts. I will provide a way to load the engine and transmission. Thanks for looking and God Bless.