Detail Info for: Chevrolet : S-10 Pickup Truck Converted to Electric Vehicle, Reserve $3250

Transaction Info

Sold On:
10/24/2011
Price:
$ 5400.00
Condition:
Mileage:
2686
Location:
Bethesda, MD, 20814
Seller Type:
Private seller

Vehicle Specification

Year Make Model:
1999 Chevrolet S-10
Submodel Body Type:
Pickup truck
Engine:
2.2L 4 Cylinder Gasoline Fuel
Transmission:
Manual
VIN:
1GCCS1440X8122797
Vehicle Title:
Drive Train:
Rear Wheel Drive
Fuel Type:
Electric
Standard Equipment:
Optional Equipment:

Vehicle Detail

Here is an opportunity to buy a pure electric vehicle for half price. The reserved price is half price of the Buy it Now price. Chevy S10 1999 has a conversion to EV (Electric Vehicle) done in 2009 by Alexander Wayne. See his website here. with all new el. parts which include a NetGain Warp 9 Series motor, Curtis controller, 144V system voltage, 24x6V CarQuest G-110-12 Batteries, Programmable Charger from Quick Charge Corp., Oklahoma City. Wired belt driven alternator from the motor tail shaft powers DC controller, wipers, lights, dash board indicators, power breaks, voltmeter and ammeter. It has an emergency power disconnect pull switch for 144V circuit inside the vehicle for safety, and a tilt bed for service of 20 batteries. 4 batteries are in the front. 5-speed manual transmission is without a clutch. Cost of just the electric conversion is $12,500, not including the donor vehicle. Maximum speed is more than 60mph. Range 25-35 miles depends on the type, speed, and quality of driving. Less miles driven on highway means more miles in city speed. The original odometer (with over 100k miles, not sure about exact number) was replaced during conversion with digital one and now it has 2686 miles. Mr. Alexander addressed any post-sale questions which I had. This car has no A/C, no Power Steering and an AM/FM radio is not functional. The car can be charged from a standard 110 outlet, 20A breaker. Charging current starts around 9A and it ends after 14 hours at 3A. Car can be tested and picked up in Bethesda, MD. Buyer is responsible for shipping. Please note that Buy It Now price is less than individual components installed: Item Price Shipping 1. Netgain Warp 9" Double Shaft $1,700 $247 2. Controller (144 vdc / 400 amp) $1,695 $25 3. Adapter Plate or Generic Adaptor Plate $235 $10 4. Shaft Coupler (requires flywheel, pressure plate, & clutch) $255 $10 5. 0-5k Throttle Box $95 $7 6. Contactor $120 $5 7. 50-180 VDC Volt Meter $85 $5 8. 0-500 Amp Meter $85 $5 9. Gauge Holder Bracket $10 $3 10. 50mv - 500 Amp Shunt $39 $5 11. 40 ft of #2/0 ga. Wire Cable - $240 at $6 / ft $240 $25 12. 12 - High Current Ring Terminals - $48 at $4/ea $48 $7 13. 48-Battery Cable Terminals-$120 at $2.50/ea. Wing nut bolt. $120 $10 14. Fuse - 400 amp slow blow $40 $3 15. Smart Charger from Quick Charge Corp. $795 $20 16. Paktrakr Battery Monitor for 24 batteries w/ Current Sensor $470 $0 $0 $6,031 $387 $6,418 18. 24 6V, 75A, 115min, CarQuest G-110-12 Batteries $3,000 $0 19. Other local non-electric material (shocks, battery frame, etc.) $500 19. Labor (removing, engine, tank, exhaust, radiator) 19. Labor (installing el. parts, know-how) $3,000 $0 20. Donor Vehicle $2,000 $0 $14,531 $387 $14,918 So you are getting for free: 2 years old 24x6V batteries, labor and other non-el. parts plus donor car. Reserved price is even lower. The car recently passed VA annual inspection. The pickup is a certified electric vehicle in VA and does not need to go for VA emission inspection and would also qualify for VA HOV. Batteries have around 90 cycles and currently I am reconditioning all of the batteries. If you want to see recorded data by Paktrakr during charging and driving, then write me an email at pjancik@gmail and I will send you excel sheets. Here is a video from driving the electric pickup truck: MVI 3514. There are also other videos under user pjancik1 from one drive in the last winter. You can start at video IMG 0543 and on the right side you see videos up to IMG 0558 from the same drive. For more pictures click here. What is a comfortable continues range in miles? Currently it is 25 miles and you can comfortably drive 20 miles on the highway from those 25 miles. If you can charge the batteries at work place you can increase the range by 80%. Why not 100%? Eventhough most of charge is received in the first hours, you will still be missing 5 hours unless you work in 14 hours shifts. Of course if you drive in city speed driving errands with pauses, you can make 30-35 miles. At the first year of battery life I could make 45 miles on errands and 35 miles continuously with 30 miles on highway. I never used this car for commuting (that’s why a low mileage of 2686), because my one-way commute distance was 27 miles and when I was buying the advertised mileage was 55 miles so I thought with my cautious driving I can make it. Big mistake!!! Do not get caught on higher mileage with new battery, because after two years you will start to notice a lower range. Also in cold winter you will notice a shorter mileage. Taking a good care of batteries is a crucial point for good mileage. The advertised car is very well prepared to support such care with PakTrakr. The Paktrakr ($470) is included. Who is an ideal buyer of this car? Anybody can be an ideal buyer if he writes me a check. But truly an ideal buyer for me is someone who has a short commuting distance or needs a car for delivering around city or at farm and lives in warm state (but not in hilly downtown of San Francisco). Why? Because the lead batteries get weaker in cold or very hot weather. And why not in San Francisco? Because 6V golf cart batteries work efficiently up to 75 amps. Above 75A the batteries are inefficient and energy is lost by heating the battery. And for steep hills you need twice than that or more than 150 amps so you are exhausting batteries faster and you get shorter mileage and by breaking downhill you burn the energy by breaking pads. Also a commuting one-way distance of an ideal buyer should be up to 12 miles or up to 18 miles if you he can charge at work. What is estimated shipping? Two years ago, a shipment from Exeter, NH to Bethesda, MD did cost $500 which was 496 miles. Does the truck still use octane? This Chevy S10 is a pure electric car with removed gasoline engine. Problem with every car and especially with electric one is a weight. You cannot afford to keep heavy old gas engine and heavy batteries and drive on highway on electric motor. But I saw people to install smaller power generator running on propane, biodiesel or directly on fried oil either to charge batteries during parking or during driving something similar like Chevy Volt, but the charging while you drive would not be sufficient to drive continuously like Chevy Volt does. BTW power generators are not that efficient and it could be several times more expensive than charging by electricity from Power Station unless you have access to free fried oil. I live in the area and would like to bring a meter to see the truck prior to bidding. No problem, you are more than welcome just let me know when in advance. Ideally after 6PM on working day or anytime during weekend. Can you still haul stuff in the bed of the pickup? Yes, you can still haul mulch from dump or furniture for example since the whole bed is available and 20 batteries are under the truck bed. What did you buy or install after the truck was converted. First of all I am the second owner after the conversion. The first owner used it couple of times and sold with around 250 miles. I bought two additional batteries to verify if two weaker batteries could improve range. Of course it did not improve it, because those two batteries had only a little bit smaller capacity. Those two replaced batteries are fully charged to avoid absorning of sulfur by lead plates and they will be included in reserved price. They can be useful if anything will happen to one of the batteries like a short cut. I bought the fifth reserve wheel. I replaced the alternator and left rear lights which was cracked. I installed the Paktrakr kit to monitor each battery independently in one second interval. All information can be recorded electronically in file and analyzed in excel sheet. In order to record every second, you need just a laptop and free HyperTerminal program. The Paktrakr kit consists of PakTrakr 800 + 2x PakTrakr 8-battery Remote, PakTrakr ES1, PakTrakr Current Sensor, USB Serial Converter. The Paktrakr monitoring package is included. The conversion costs $12,500 plus $2,000 for the donor vehicle. Since I am the second owner I paid for the truck $8,500 and I paid additional $900 for Paktrakr, New Alternator, 2x6V Batteries, 5-th wheel) and if you want to buy it now, you can get it for $3,000 less, that's $8,000 less compared to original price. I haven't used e-bay before so I have a new ID. No problem as long as you pay $500 deposit after the auction and I will receive check or wire before shipping, I am fine with it. How much does it cost to charge the batteries? It depends on your rate from power company, but in my case it is around 2 dollars and my rate is $0.146/kW. So you need around 14kWh and you can drive 25 miles which is roughly $0.08 per mile. National average rate is $0.117/kWh, so you could pay by average rate around $0.065 per mile and to calculate it to a gasoline mileage consumption it would be 54MPG if the gasoline costs $3.55/gallon. Is there anything broken or needs to be repaired? Car drives very well however there are small things which need to be fixed. One of the shocks (struts) which helps to tilt the truck bed needs to be replaced ($30). Currently I just use more hand power to lift it up, but I will change it before shipping. Factory GM radio does not work and I do not have enough experience to repair. The installed heating element to heat up interior in winter does not work, but it can be a small issue in wiring. Lately the reverse light stopped to work. Sometimes it works sometimes not, so it is not a bulb, but a switch in the transmission or a wire problem. What would you improve on the car? I would get rid of heavy truck bed and use something similar like the following cars: http://evalbum.com/3215, http://evalbum.com/3184, http://evalbum.com/2672, http://evalbum.com/2191, http://evalbum.com/1428, http://evalbum.com/500. If I have free time I would experiment with homemade solar panels and install 1kW Solar Array something similar like University of Maine did: http://evalbum.com/838. Once the lead batteries will reach the end of their live, I would suggest to consider the Lithium batteries for example this one. They are almost 3 times lighter (555lbs vs. 1512lbs for 144V system) and they have a higher capacity, but what is most important they can delivery 160A for one hour without losing capacity. With lead batteries the capacity gets drastically reduced if discharged by more than 75A. With 75A, you can drive 30-35mph, but with 160A you can drive 50-55mph. The best thing is that you can easily discharge twice the much (360A) and loose less than 5% of the capacity. So from the acceleration and efficiency stand point the lithium batteries win. Now let’s look at the financial aspect. Yes the investment is higher, but as time goes they will get cheaper and the number of lifecycles can be tripled from 1000 to 3000 cycles if the battery is charged only to 90% of its capacity while having 80A consumption. Lithium batteries can last longer than 10 years. If charged only to 80% it can serve 5000 cycles. This is a trick which all current hybrids with Lithium batteries are using. I think this trick could be used in computer batteries if we do not need to change computer in 4 years anyway. So if charged only to 80-90% of capacity it can make a financial sense to go for Lithium batteries especially if 3.2v 160AH will be under $200. So beside lower weight by 956lbs, excellent acceleration, double mileage, fast charging, there is one more advantage for Lithium battery and it is handling a very hot temperature 131F (55C), where it will even increase the mileage and at cold weather 32F (0C) where it will decrease the mileage only by 5% and at freezing -13F (-25C) will decrease the mileage by 10%. Here are links which I used for Lead CarQuest battery G110-12 and Lithium Yttrium High Power Cell LiFePO4/LiFeYPO4 (3.2V/160Ah) - Original Winston Battery product WB-LYP160AHA(formerly ThunderSky TS-LFP160AHA, Thunder-Sky TS-LYP160AHA) and here is link to truck from which I took the idea: http://www.evalbum.com/1752. Q: Is it possible to have a look at the truck? I'm local as in right up the beltway in College Park. Oct-10-11 A: Please call me at 202-413-1797 to arrange time. The best for me is after 7PM or early morning. Driving test can be arranged also in a different time. On Sunday 10/14/2011 11AM-4PM I will be on National Mall in DC http://www.pluginamerica.org/pluginday. Q: What would the running cost be now with lithium batteries? 1,000lbs less weight should help some. (I have been under the impression that equivalent mileage is over 100mpg so I am curious as to why this vehicle gets 54mpg in your given scenario. Also what is the seating like? A bench seat seating three or bucket seats? Do you know the approximate cost of a set of lithium batteries? Oct-10-11 A: I could use 35 mile for 14kW and I would get 76MPG and be still politically correct for city speeds. I could also decrease price per kWh from 11.7cents/kWh to 10 cents/kWh and I would get 89MPG and I would be still correct, because some people pay less than 10 cents/kWh. I could use $4/Gallon price which people pay in certain areas and I would get 100MPG. But I do not want to inflate numbers, but rather to use a real life numbers. If I would use EPA's 33.7kWh/Gallon I would get 60MPG for 25 miles range and for 35 miles range I would get 84MPG. But let’s not to compare apple and pear where converted CHEVY S10 offered for $6k would be compared with NISSAN LEAF for $30k (incl. current Federal Credit) which can get combined EPA's 99MPG and with range of 70miles at speed 55mph. The official 105 miles range is at 24mph (information taken from www.nissanusa.com and based on experience of others this is not so far from reality). I assume that the LiFePO4 160Ah batteries could double the range easily. I support my assumption based on the specs from here http://www.hipowergroup.com/uploadfile/2011/0115/20110115123901167.pdf. LiFePO4 160Ah battery could deliver 160A per one hour, which in advertised Chevy S10 would allow driving 55mph, so 55 miles range would be achievable on highway. The range would be of course longer in city speeds like with LEAF. I assume that charging of Chevy S10 would require 28kWh (calculated with 20% inefficiency) then you would get to EPA's 66MPG (where I used EPA’s 33.7kWh/Gallon). The seating is for three. Approximate cost of a set of lithium battery LiFeYPo4 160Ah 3.2V can costs $200 (incl. shipping) so for 45 batteries you pay $9,000. (http://currentevtech.com/Lithium-Batteries/Thundersky/Thundersky-160ah-cell-p26.html). The difference between previously mentioned LiFePo4 and now LiFeYPo4 http://en.winston-battery.com/index.php/products/power-battery/item/wb-lyp160aha?category_id=176 is that Yttrium improves driving in cold weather. Q: How much life is left in the batteries? There is no clutch & you don't need to change gears? Does it have an airbag? Does it have power brakes? Oct-06-11 A: Batteries may last for another 2-3 years, if they will be taken care of. Important is to keep them always charged, do not over charge, do not discharge completely and recondition them regularly. Regarding the clutch, I have to admit that I rarely change gears. Actually you do not need to, because you can start on the second gear and reach 55mph without changing. When you need to reverse you have to stop anyway and change of gears is not a problem when you do not move. Nevertheless I learnt to change gears up to 3rd and down to 1st. 4th gear does not make sense since the el. motor RPM band is very wide. Changing up from 1st to 2nd and from 2nd to 3rd is very easy, you just press and wait and it clicks by itself. Changing down is also possible, once you develop a sense for rpm of el. motor. The truck has a driver’s airbag, I verified with Alexander Wayne that the airbag was untouched during conversion. It has power brakes, but there is a slight difference from gasoline engine which is always idling, because pump is working only when the electric motor is turning. You will ask now that why should I need breaks if an electric motor is not turning and the car is stopped? If you park at hilly street, you might use neutral to turn the electric motor first, pump the air and use breaks afterwards or just press breaks harder. Q: How well does the truck drive without PS? Especially in cold weather with potentially slippery roads. Oct-04-11 A: 20 years back I used to drive cars without power steering so I do not have a problem to drive it now. On slippery surface it will be easier to turn and therefore have a faster reaction while still keeping feedback from the road and tires. On dry surfaces you even have a better feeling what tires are doing, but you have to use more hand power and therefore it will take longer to turn, so there is a tradeoff. Faster you drive the easier is a turn. Of course at the parked position it is hardest to turn, but the most of the weight (20 batteries 1,260 lbs) is on the rear axle so it is not a big deal at all to do u-turns. You can see a u-turn at 4:10 of the video IMG 0547 http://www.youtube.com/user/pjancik1#p/u/13/v7QTeEqDXIE. Let me know what you are concern more about how easy is to turn wheels or how fast or how precise. But please do not forget that with any electric car powered by lead batteries you will be not able to race since sluggish acceleration. A different story would be if the car would be powered with suggested Lithium batteries (>160Ah) mentioned in my improvement answer. On Oct-16-11 at 19:39:02 PDT, seller added the following information: Today my range was 43 miles. But it was not continues drive. I went to DC national mall for Plugin Day event organized by http://www.evadc.org/ which was 12.5 mile drive downhill 11AM and then 12.5 miles uphill at 4PM. I tried do not to draw more 75A and since it was stop and go traffic through crossing lights the average was low. Way bay uphill I tried to be efficient as well (not withdrawing more than 90A) in low city speed gliding on red lights. When I came home I had enough power to continue so I went to Rockville and Home Depot with total of 40 miles. Then at 9PM I did a 3 miles test drive and I had power perhaps for 2 miles of slow driving, but I did not want to discharge the battery completely. Tomorrow I have a request for highway drive so I will report the actual data again.

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