1973 BMW 2002

tii Coupe

4 - Cyl.

Manual

2763604

Gasoline

You are bidding on a 1973 BMW 2002 tii. The vehicle is in good condition mechanically. The engine, trans, brakes, steering, etc. all work great. The interior is pretty good. The carpet is nice and clean. The only flaw is where a fire extinguisher was once mounted on the passenger side of the transmission tunnel. The front seats are from a 92 Acura Integra. They are a bit worn but are presentable. They function just great and hold you in much better than the stock seats. I still do have the stock seats and the vinyl is still in good shape. However they need to be re-stuffed. The horsehair padding is just crumbling as is the same for the rear seat. The headliner is all there but is stained around the sunroof. The dash has one small crack where the gauge cluster pops out. Other than that it is crack free. However the dash was altered a bit on the passenger side. One of the three bumps on the shelf has been shaved by a previous owner to fit in a gauge cluster. The tii option clock is there but not functioning. All the gauges work just fine except he odometer stopped working about two years ago. On cold days, the odometer will start working again for a few miles. The gauge cluster itself does not illuminate anymore. All of the bulbs have been replaced but it still doesn't work. It'll start working sometimes for no reason. The original steering wheel is long gone. The hi-beam switch and the turn signal/wiper/washer switch have been replaced with OE parts. Since then, the center cluster gauges no longer illuminate. Must be some kind of ground issue. The washers stopped working at this time too. The turn signals typically won't reset themselves and will only flash once on the cluster even though they are working properly on the outside. The horn switch is not connected. I replaced the center cluster with a Parker Performance unit with new VDO gauges for Oil Pressure, Water Temp & Voltage. The stereo is an Alpine CD deck with an iPod hookup. Cable is included. The previous owner put some Alpine speakers into the once perfectly good door panels. There are also some speakers mounted at the passenger's feet in the rear. Some type of amplifier is hooked up underneath the rear seat. The windows & handles all work properly. The sunroof works but I never use it. It needs seals because it does leak from time to time. The exterior is probably the biggest issue with the car. It looks good but it's a 20 footer. Both rocker panels are rotting out where the sunroof drains into them. The driver side rocker has issues from the door to the rear tire. The passenger side rocker is only bad where the drain is, but the damage is more severe than the other side. I am not a body expert but I do know that this car is full of mud. I can see it at the bottom of the doors and can feel it in the rear fender lips. The front fenders seem to be OK and the upper half of the car seem to be solid. The rear shock towers seem to be solid as far as I can tell. There are misc. rust bubbles sprouting up on the doors and fenders. The trunk lid is starting to get some rust near the window. The previous owner also drilled a hole in the trunk lid to install an 80s style spiral antenna. It looks like something wants to poke through the bodywork near the sunroof crank. Looks like a shopping cart made a little dent on the passenger side rear fender. The floors and all of the underside of the car look great. No signs of any rotting out at all. Just the rockers. The spare tire well seems solid. But there is a crack developing where the tow hook is mounted. The chrome looks good and shines up well. No rust. The front bumper has always looked like it's not quite level with the car. The driver side grill has a couple slats that were bent. Some big 4x4 with a trailer hitch backed into it but I straightened it the best I could. The suspension has been upgraded at some point and sits a bit lower and rides stiffer than stock. I can tell that it does have Bilsteins in it. I replaced the front end bushings with urethanes last year. I also had a rear sway bar installed. Front brakes are fairly new and have steel braided hoses. I use Ate Super Blue fluid. All the lights work except for the reverse lights. The headlight lenses are cracked but it is hard to notice and moisture has not been getting in. The rear defrost does not work because a fuel pump cutoff switch has been put in it's place. Exhaust is solid. The wheels are 14" bottlecaps and are all near perfect. The tires on them are Bridgestone Potenzas. The tires are at least 6 years old and are starting to dry up. There is still a decent amount of tread left on them despite 5 years worth of track days on them. The fuel injected motor has been replaced by the previous owner with a 2.4L 170+HP Metric Mechanic motor. From my understanding and a little investigating, the motor was purchased from Metric Mechanic in the late 90s. However the previous owner rarely drove the car for the next 5-9 years. Probably less than 1000 miles were put on the vehicle before I purchased it in 2006. Shortly after I experienced running issues. Eventually the running issues got so bad that a compression test was done and it was discovered that the piston rings never seated properly in the new motor. So I had my technician Rob Schvid from the Auto Clinic in Neenah, Wisconsin tear down the motor and re-ring it back in the winter of 2007-2008. The motor was very impressive when we opened it up. The crankshaft is an E30 M3 crank and the pistons look enormous. We replaced the rings and head gasket with parts supplied by Metric Mechanic. The starter was also replaced with a lighter/more powerful Bosch unit for an E30 M3. The alternator was replaced with a Bosch unit for an E21. Water pump, thermostat, cooling hoses, belts, senders, etc. all were replaced at this time. The Weber carburetor was rebuilt and jetted down for better street drivability. And the motor has been great ever since. The car is a daily driver except for the winter months. I also use the car for a handful of track days and drivers education events at Road America every year. The transmission is an E21 5-Speed unit. The clutch feels great and the transmission shifts great too. I have never been able to identify the rear diff. My guess is it's a 3:90. The radiator was replaced in 2010 with an all-aluminum high performance Korman radiator. Water pump and thermostat were replaced this year. I think I am the third owner of the car. The original owner lived in Massachusetts. I believe this was a European delivery vehicle because the first stamp in the owners manual is from BMW Germany, the second at around 700 miles or so is from a BMW dealer in Venice, Italy. I purchased the car from a gentleman in Lexington, Kentucky. He told me that he's owned the car since the 70s. He turned it into a 2002 turbo at some point. But he must have done the Metric Mechanic motor in the late 90s. The 1987 Kentucky title I was given listed the mileage around 80K. I bought the car with about 81K in 2006. Odometer stopped at 85K in 2009. I do have the email address of the previous owner who I am sure knows more of the history of the car than I do. The folks at Metric Mechanic may also be of help. Also included with the car is a bunch of spare parts I've accumulated: original front seats, used front air dam, misc chrome bumpers and hardware, floor mats, new brake pads and rotors, cap & rotor, spark plugs, bmw tools, new never installed Ireland Engineering 4" aluminum crank pulley, wheel bearings & seals, cv boots, literature, etc. This 2002 is a really great car and I know I will regret selling it. It can be driven for a long long time without having to address any of the issues it has. I've driven it to Nashville, Indianapolis & Montreal without any problems. It will go around Road America hard all day long for days. It is a 40 year old car and I can't promise that it will be incident free after purchase. But I want to be up front as possible about the car because the previous owner wasn't upfront about its faults with me. I'm more of a perfectionist and definitely a crummy salesman. I will try to answer any questions the best I can and provide more pictures, etc. Just let me know. The buyer & I must converse via telephone to discuss the delivery of the car. I will want a $500 deposit within a week to hold the car until delivery. I will only accept a certified bank check or cash. If paying buy certified bank check, I request a scan/picture and info of the check so my bank can check for fraud. Edit 7/7/11: I've put 100+ photos of the car to view. http://s1198.photobucket.com/albums/aa455/teatoe993/I can take more and better photos of anything on the car if requested.