Detail Info for: Oldsmobile : Eighty-Eight Olds DIESEL - Professionally Rebuilt Engine w/8k Miles!

Transaction Info

Sold On:
06/27/2011
Price:
$ 7495.00
Condition:
Mileage:
57400
Location:
Lufkin, TX, 75904
Seller Type:
Private seller

Vehicle Specification

Year Make Model:
1981 Oldsmobile Eighty-Eight
Submodel Body Type:
Sedan
Engine:
8 - Cyl.
Transmission:
Automatic
VIN:
1G3AY69N3BM273217
Vehicle Title:
Drive Train:
Fuel Type:
Diesel
Standard Equipment:
Optional Equipment:

Vehicle Detail

Up for auction is my 1981 Oldsmobile Delta 88 Royale Brougham with the Oldsmobile 5.7L (350cid) Diesel engine. I bought the car in May 2008 with the odometer showing 42,000 miles. Based on some documents that came with the car, I believe that to have been 142,000 actual miles. The car was in good condition, with all paint, vinyl top and upholstery being original, as well as all mechanical components. There was a receipt for a valve job that had been done on the engine a few years prior, but otherwise I believe the engine to have been all original as well. The pictures tell the car’s story and show its condition. In addition to the pictures in this listing, many more detailed pictures, service records, and original options sticker can be seen in full resolution at: http://cid-aea40e5c2a27dc5b.photos.live.com/play.aspx/81%20Olds%20Diesel%20For%20Sale. Although everything on the car was operational when I got it, some components were showing signs of wear and deterioration due to age and miles. I began slowly replacing them over the next few months, all the while using the car as my daily driver, including several out-of-town highway trips. I learned to drive in my parents’ 1980 Delta 88 with the 350 Diesel, so I knew exactly what to expect from the car regarding performance. It did not let me down, as the engine was in superb running condition. 1981 was the year that Oldsmobile introduced the improved DX block for these engines and also incorporated roller lifters for increased reliability. Improved head bolts had been introduced mid-way through the 1980 model year. In December 2008, I put the car in the shop to have the engine completely rebuilt. The only issues with the engine were the usual oil leaks that were common with these engines, and the fact that it used quite a bit of oil (300 miles to the quart) due to, as it turned out, cylinder wall wear and valve guide wear. Wanting the car to be in top-notch condition, I opted for a complete rebuild and took it to a local repair shop specializing in Diesel engines. The shop’s engine rebuilder was very familiar with the Oldsmobile 350 Diesel, as he had been in the engine business since before these engines were introduced and had worked on them regularly for years. Most parts were relatively easy to find, with the exception of pistons and injectors. After some internet research, I tracked down a set of NOS pistons in Puerto Rico and NOS injectors in Arkansas, and the rebuild began. Once it was complete, I also had the transmission rebuilt, due to some leaks from the pump. Since all rebuilds were completed in January 2009, I have used the car on a regular basis, and it now is showing 57,400 miles (probably 157,400 actual), or about 8,000 miles since the engine and transmission rebuild were complete. While no longer my daily driver, I still drive it at least a couple of times per week, and typically continue to use it for out-of-town trips due to its comfort level and the fact that it gets much better mileage than my truck. It has been completely trouble-free, and typically has been averaging low- to mid-20’s in a combination of in-town and highway driving. With sustained highway driving at reasonable speeds of 60-65 mph, it will reach 28-29 mpg. A mostly-complete listing follows (in no particular order) of all components that have been repaired, rebuilt, added or replaced since May 2008: Tires, P215/75R15 (Goodyear WeatherHandler LS) Treadwear 680, Traction A, Temp B Mfg Date Stamped June 2008 Currently 14,000 Miles Auxiliary Transmission Cooler (Hayden) Radiator (Ready-Rad) Hoses (Gates) Belts (Gates) Water Pump (A1 Cardone) Alternator (Ultima) Batteries, 2 (Optima Red-Top) – July 2010 Air Conditioning Compressor (AC Delco) Air Conditioning Evaporator, Accumulator and Orifice Tube (Ready-Aire) Heater Core (Ready-Aire) Coil Springs (Moog) Shock Absorbers (Bilstein) Head Liner (local upholstery shop) Door Gaskets Clock (quartz analog, NOS from 1985) Trunk Lid Gas Support Struts Fuel Filter/Water Separator added (Stanadyne Fuel-Manager) Glow Plugs (AC Delco) Starter Hydro-boost Unit (for Power Brakes) Transmission (TH-200C) Rebuild Engine Rebuild, including the following new parts: Head Studs (ARP) Main Studs (ARP) Head Gaskets (Fel-Pro) Engine Gasket Set (Fel-Pro) Lower Gasket Set (Fel-Pro) Pistons, 0.030” Over – NOS, Date Stamped 3/84 (Sealed Power) Roller Lifters (Melling) Camshaft (Melling) Oil Pump (Melling) Main Bearings, 0.010” Over (Federal Mogul) Freeze Plugs (Federal Mogul) Rings, 0.030” Over (Sealed Power) Timing Set (Engine Pro) Cam Bearings, 0.010” Over (Sealed Power) Rod Bearings, 0.010” Over (Mahle) OEM Micro-Injectors, NOS Injector Pump – Rebuilt by Stanadyne’s Houston, TX Service Dept Lift Pump (AC Delco) Valve Guides What’s wrong with it and why am I selling it? Well, nothing really major – I got a new toy (’76 DeVille) and this one needs to go to make room in the garage for my daily driver. There are a few minor imperfections and a couple of things that don’t work. Since I won’t put anything up for sale without disclosing everything I know about it to potential buyers, here’s the list of negatives: Cruise Control suddenly quit working within the last year. Power Antenna is broken off. Fuel Gauge stays up past Full until the tank is just under half full, then it twitches for a few miles and drops down where it should be. I fill up every 300-350 miles or when it twitches, whichever comes first. Small Oil Leak. Nothing like it was when I got it, but it’s hard to get these engines to not leak. There will be a drop or two under it when you park. I keep a piece of drywall under it in the garage to absorb the drips (drywall doesn’t scatter like kitty litter). I change the oil every 1,500 – 2,000 miles and have not had to add between oil changes since the engine rebuild. Dent in upper left fender (see photo). Scratch in lower left fender (see photo). Looks like another car probably swiped it with its bumper when turning into a parking place next to it. The surface rust on this scratch is the only rust on the car. Little chips in paint. Rock chips, etc. And some minor door dings from 30 years of use. Overall, the paint is in good condition for 30-year-old metallic brown paint that has been in regular use most of its life. The pictures are a good representation of its condition. Be sure to click the link above for additional pictures and interesting information. I believe the car to be in good condition and very reliable, particularly with the high-quality upgraded components used in the engine rebuild. The ARP head studs and Fel-Pro gaskets should eliminate the issues these engines had with head gaskets. The additional fuel filter and water separator should eliminate the issues these fuel systems had with poor fuel quality. The injector pump has been rebuilt, and I use Stanadyne’s Lubricity Formula fuel additive as well as Stanadyne’s Performance Formula fuel additive with every fill-up to eliminate problems due to today’s ultra-low sulfur Diesel fuel. I will include my stock of these additives with the sale. After allowing 8,000 miles for break-in on the engine, I have recently switched to Amsoil full-synthetic motor oil and Amsoil’s Absolute Efficiency oil filter. I will include an extra oil filter and oil for your next oil change with the sale. To be prepared for emergencies, I always carry spare hoses and belts in the trunk. I will include these with the sale. A full set of shop manuals, sales brochures, and some other random parts that I have picked up as they appeared on eBay will also be included. These are shown in the photos accessible with the above link. What else can I tell you about the car? Please call me and let me know what you need to know. Call 936-404-7118 and ask for Robert. I will be glad to answer any question you have to the best of my ability, and can take any additional pictures of specific areas that you request. I will also be glad to give you contact information for the shop where the engine was rebuilt if you would like to call them with any questions. Bid early, bid often! This is a great deal on a comfortable dependable car that, with proper care and maintenance, will serve you well. You will also have the privilege of helping to preserve a unique piece of American automotive history! $500 deposit due via PayPal within 48 hours of auction end. Balance of funds due within 7 days of auction end via Cashier's Check, Cash, or Money Order before delivery of vehicle and title. I will assist with making shipping arrangements if needed. Note: At the request of an eBay member, I have added photos to the link above. These photos show views of the underside of the engine. It is difficult to tell exactly where the small oil leak is originating -- it is a small enough leak that it's hard to track down. But the photos show the condition of the bottom of the engine, as well as additional close-up views from the top side. I have also added a couple of pictures showing the piece of drywall that has been underneath the car in the garage for the last two years. Note that the drops shown on this drywall are all that it has dropped in my garage over a two year period. Almost not worth mentioning, but I won't list a vehicle for sale without disclosing everything I know about its condition. Photos should tell the story. Please let me know if there are any other questions.

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