1965 Ford Mustang

Fastback -

8 - Cyl.

Manual

5R09AXXXXXX

Clear

Gasoline

1965 Ford Mustang FastbackCalifornia Native born April 3rd 1965 in San Jose 5R09AXXXXXX Data Plate reads as follows: Body - 63B Color - R Trim - 66 Date - 03R DSO - 72 Axle - A Trans - 5Paint: PPG Ivy Green base coat clear coat from original code for this car, topped with factory correct white LeMans stripes on original sheet metal. Fiberglass Shelby hood w/billet hinges, hood latch delete, R-Model fiberglass front apron with front bumper delete and “exhaust through” rear valance. I left the gas shocks out of the billet hood hinges because they cause the fiberglass hood to buckle. Only a steel reinforced hood would cure this. I instead made some hood props out of 1/4" extensions, universal joints and 11mm deep sockets. Unique and attention grabbing.Drivetrain:Original matching numbers 289CID V8 “A Code” .030” over w/ 302 crank and pistons, painstakingly polished Cobra deep sump aluminum oil pan, oversized valves, Isky cam and roller valvetrain topped with polished aluminum valve covers, a polished Performer RPM Air Gap intake, Street Demon carburetor and K&N X-Stream hi-flow air filter. Mallory breakerless distributor with advance curve set to 289 Hi-Po specs. Aluminum Griffin radiator & Hi-Po cooling fan. Engine runs cool in traffic in 100º+ temperatures.Factory original Borg Warner T-10 4 speed transmission (rebuilt - bearings and seals), Hurst linkage, Centerforce clutch, 9” Currie rear end running a 3.55 Auburn locker and Dutchman 32 spline axles. When I purchased the car it had the wrong rear end housing in it. Was too wide. I replaced it with the Currie 9" housing and built a 9" gearset for it. The original z-bar clutch linkage was upgraded with bearings and heim joints and is much smoother and requires less force than originally from the factory. Every once in a while I will miss 3rd gear and/or it will pop out under extended deceleration. T-10's have always been a little cranky. I will include the adapter plate and crossmember for a T-5 which I was planning on doing but never got around to. The rear end is already geared for the 5-speed. Engine Compartment: I have never been a big fan of the Mustang engine compartment so I did what I could to make it more appealing to the eye and also more functional. In addition to the listed modifications to the motor I added a billet battery box for the Red Top battery and fabricated mounting brackets out of aluminum. The heater hoses are wrapped in DEI reflective heat wrap and are tucked into the intake manifold to keep a clean look. Instead of having the fuel line routed up the front of the motor I relocated it and ran it back out the fender apron, to the rear of the shock tower and back into the engine compartment under the brake master cyl. The fuel inlet is to the rear of the carburetor. This eliminated any vapor lock in hot weather and made for a cleaner look. Aside from the rep top battery and the red mallory distributor cap everything under the hood is either painted black or polished aluminum. I even stripped and polished the export bracing and monte carlo bar bracing from Total Control. Even Chevy guys do a double take when they look under my hood. I tried to make the look unique while not being too distracting with multiple color schemes and/or accessories that look like they don't belong. I think I have achieved this look.Tires and wheels:Kumho Ecsta 225/50VR16 tires on Old School Vintage Wheel Works 45 series 16x8 wheels, Scott Drake running horse billet center caps and interesting bullet shaped lug nuts.Exhaust:Jet Hot coated Tri-Y headers and custom dual exhaust w Flowmaster mufflers exiting through the rear valance. Coating keeps heat out of engine compartment and sends it out the tail pipes.Suspension:Front: Total Control coil over suspension with 32 way adjustable VariShocks, tubular a-arms, adjustable strut rods and 1” front sway bar. Upper a-arms relocated per Shelby specs and old holes welded up. Engine compartment heim joint bracing by Total controlRear: KYB GasAdjust shocks over leaf springs trail under-ride traction bars and full sub-frame connectors with cross bracing by Total Control Overall it is lowered about 3" and the stance is very cool. I get a ton of complements on the way the car sits. Although the front tires are tucked into the fenders they do not rub on turns even over harsh bumps.Brakes: Factory front disc/rear drum with working R-model cooling ducts from front apron to front disc assy. SSBC billet dual well master cylinder, Willwood adjustable proportioning valve, stainless lines and braided hoses. The parking brake does not work. The rear cable is bound up. Had originally put a good used cable on it but when the restoration was complete I found it did not work. I just leave it in gear when parked. Even on the steepest hill the compression holds the car fine.Interior:Pony seats w/new foam and upholstery, aside original (no repro) console. Pony door panels, new carpet and headliner, fold down rear seat with working trap door to trunk. Sound deadening underlayment and spray on bedliner material covering original floor pans. Has new dash pad, instrument bezel and all interior stainless trim is original Ford except for the threshold plates. Courtesy lights even work! When I bought it the interior was gutted except for some of the rear trim. It has a pony trim code but I went with standard instrument cluster because I preferred the look of the sweeping speedometer. Speedometer reads 10mph faster than you are traveling. I was not going to address this until I replaced the transmission. Just needs a speedo gear change at the transmission.Performance: Starts up and runs flawlessly every time. Approx 300HP with a small block Ford throttle response that makes you sit up and take notice. It's a blast to drive and handles the turns real well with the added suspension upgrades. Overall Appearance: This car has about 7,000 miles on it since the restoration. Therefor it will show a few nicks and imperfections, because I drove it and enjoyed it, but only if you look for them. The only real noticable flaw is where the quarterpanels and deck lid come together. The body/paint man told me when he was doing body work that there was a bunch of lead in the rear quarters (Ford and others used lead in older times to fill panel connections) and he removed some because he thought there was too much. He removed too much. The result is cracks in the paint in these locations. I never got around to re-doing these. Likely a repair of around $2K but in the grand scheme of things it's a drop in the bucket. It's not a trailer queen. I drove it to every car show it's been entered in over the years and have a number of awards. This year it took a 2nd place in the Peggy Sue's All American Cruise in Santa Rosa CA in the Modified Mustang category. This show draws upwards of 800 cars. So, although it is an 8 year old restoration it still shows well. Rust: Floor pans are original. Had a few pin holes which were taken care of and bedliner was sprayed on the floor. The only panel I had to replace was patch panel between the fuel tank and the upper rear shock mounts. This is an original California car that has never left. It has been garaged since I have owned it (12 years). It has never been washed with water. I keep it clean, waxed and detailed and wipe it down and cover it after every use.Hate to sell it, but when it comes down to it it is just a toy. I can always build another one if I want. When I restored this vehicle I replaced nearly everything that bolted on, including the bolts and screws. New gas tank, fuel sender, all weatherstrips, etc...There are really too many features to accurately list here. It's really a beauty. Located in Northern California, Sonoma County. I suggest you come and see it if you are interested in purchasing.Thanks for looking. Note: I will accept nothing but cash, wire transfer or cashiers check (will not release vehicle until funds have cleared). A good faith deposit of $2,000.00 USD is required within 48 hours of winning bid. Don't bid if you don't have the money. Work out your financing first. I am not a bank and I will not accept payments. I will accept no trades of any kind. I don't need another car or motorcycle or motorhome or guns or drugs or whatever you are thinking of offering me. Please do not ask me. Thanks for your consideration in this matter. My reserve is reasonable. Please don't bother asking me what it is. I would list a buy-it-now price if that was the case.