1988 Ford Mustang

GT Hatchback

8 Cylinder 5.0 Liter

Manual

1FABP42E1JF252381

Clear

Gasoline

You are looking at what was once my pride and joy for over 15 years. This 1988 Mustang GT was waiting for me to get it back on the road when I recently returned from Afghanistan, but shortly after I returned, I became engaged. Well there you go... So unfortunately, I simply do not have the time available to get this car back to the running condition I really want it to be at. Having said that, it pains me more than you know, but here goes; This clear titled 1988 Mustang GT was purchased by me in 1992 from the original owner. It had 82K on it, and was near mint and untouched at the time. While using it as a daily driver, I slowly modified and occasionally raced the car over the next 10 years. It now has 158K on the odometer, but everything mechanical in the car for the most part has less than 30K. The car was well-known by a few Mustang enthusiasts, and was actually the very 1st "My Muscle Mustang" in the May of 1996 edition of "Muscle Mustang and Fast Fords" as well as a few other magazine mentions in 5.0 Mag and Super Ford. I have always garaged the car since I've owned it, and it has been permanently garaged for about 4 years now. It has a 367 stroker engine (no, the 367 is not a typo, it was believed to be the biggest 302 block based stroker built at the time) with Windsor Jr Heads, and a HD T5 "Z" 5 speed transmission. In its current street trim when the car was running, it clocked an 11.87 @ 120 MPH in the ¼ mile. (Stock radials) The car ran on slicks once in its current trim in the 1/8th mile, and ran a 7.17 @ 96 MPH It was also dyno'd at 424 naturally aspirated rear wheel horsepower, with 415 ft. lbs of torque. It has a lot of aftermarket/performance parts, and is an excellent project that you could have up and running in a relatively short time. The car is pretty complete, if not totally. (nothing I am aware of) Many outer engine and interior parts are simply not installed, but with the car. I even have several gaskets (heads, headers, intake, etc., etc..) purchased from Summit to put the motor back together, as well as other extra parts you might use. A list of performance parts on this car (and I'm sure I didn't remember everything) is as follows; THE GOOD Engine: Custom 367 short block (12 to 1 compression) by True Blue Performance in Benson, North Carolina (3,300 miles on this engine and components) Windsor Jr heads (2.05-1.60) Windsor Jr intake (Fully ported) Holley 750 DP with mechanical secondaries TFS roller cam .542/.563 lift 224/232 duration Harland 1.6 roller rockers Motorsport lifters Motorsport harmonic balancer Comp Cams hardened pushrods ARP studs/head-bolts/rod bolts H Bearings throughout Motorsport 9 pt timing chain March under-drive pulleys K&N 14" air filter Hartman composite valve covers Canton 7 qt racing pan w/ windage tray Motorsport 3 core radiator Flex fan MSD 6 AL ignition and distributor 155 lph fuel pump Mallory adjustable FP regulator Drivetrain (11,000 miles on the most of the drivetrain) Blowproof bell-housing Adjustable clutch quadrant Centerforce HP clutch disk SVO clutch plate Motorsport T5 "Z" 5 speed transmission (2.95 1st gear) Pro 5.0 power tower Motorsport aluminum driveshaft Motorsport 4.30 gears Moser 31 spline axles Auburn HD 31 spline rear posi T/A Girdle Exhaust MAC 1 3/4" long tube headers Dr Gas 2.5" X-Pipe MAC Flowpath mufflers After muffler 2.5" Flowmaster pipes Suspension Lakewood 70/30 drag struts Eibach drag springs Competition Engineering drag shocks Boxed SVO upper control arms Custom pinion snubber Southside machine bars Battery relocated to rear, battery box installed Competition Engineering 4 point roll bar (was 6, front two taken out for streetability) SVO sub-frame connectors Extra's Centerline Convo-Pro's (15 x 8.5 rear, 15 x 4 front, with 4 new center caps still in plastic) MSD 2-step rev limiter BBK Line-lock Mickey Thompson 26 x 9 slicks w/high temp tubes on drilled stock rims Wesco Drag-racing seatbelts (never installed) Oil Warning bulb (never installed) THE BAD: The 367 stroker engine is not currently running. The air cleaner hold down bolt came loose a few years ago, and actually made it into the #8 cylinder. The cylinder wall is not damaged, but the piston and the head have scarring which you'll need to have smoothed out before putting it back on the road. (should be minor machine costs) New valves have been installed. I was planning on yanking the motor and freshening it up completely, which I would consider mandatory since it has been garaged 4 years. The metal body integrity is very solid, with no rust anywhere that I can detect, except for maybe 5 tiny spots which are just surface rust. EXCEPTION: The cowl was damaged back in 1993, and body work was done to fix it, but that should be redone. You should also replace the front and rear lower plastic pieces. The front is a stock GT piece, and the rear is a Cervini piece, but they both in need of repair/replacement. The 3.5" Hood is from Dugan Racing, and has some damage in the front driver corner, but I think you can easily have some minor work done to salvage that. Also, the front windshield is cracked and will need replaced. (The genuine Saleen wing is like new) UPDATE: When I was taking pictures last night, I discovered the radiator support brace was bent. It was towed home from my nephew's home when I came back, so something the tow company did, I am guessing. I'm going to attempt to come up with an extra brace, but no promises. Should be easily attainable at any junkyard for a few bucks, however. The interior is a typical interior on a drag/street car. If you are trying to make it show worthy, you'll have some work to do. Having said that, the interior is all there, and all I was planning on doing was putting everything back together, putting in some nice seats, and maybe some new carpet. Everything electrical does still worked on the interior when I parked it. I always kept it a streetable car even though I was beefing/lightening it up. Purchasing info: I've had a few questions already from locals about the car, so just keep in mind I haven't been involved in the auto hobby for a few years due to extended deployments, and not every little fact or performance part was documented. (although most were) So please feel free to call me with any questions you have BEFORE bidding, and I will do my best to get you an answer if I don't know it right away. The car is in my garage in Shalimar, Florida. You are certainly welcome to come by and look at it prior if you'd like. I've ran the short math on what I've spent on this car, and it's pretty obvious I will get nowhere near what I've spent. Regardless, I'm throwing it up with no reserve. I only hope you have ½ as much fun with it as I have. Serious bidders only, please. Again, ask questions BEFORE you bid. I have certainly been as open and honest with you as I could be, but I might have missed something even with this long description and the pictures. If you have below 5 feedback or a bunch of negatives, and don't make some phone contact with me about your bid so I know you're serious, don't be surprised if I kick your bid off. Been burned once, but no more. Upon auctions end, I will need 10% down on PayPal or a certified money order/certified check within 72 hours. The remaining 90% (unless other arrangements are made between us) is due NLT April 16th, 2010 in the form of a certified check or money order. (NO PayPal on the remaining 90%!!) If you need help transporting the car, I will certainly do all I can to help, but understand this responsibility falls on the winning bidder. No, I will not personally load it and drive it to Wisconsin. No I don't want your car in trade. No, I will not share shipping costs. No, I will not get it running first. And no, I will not hold the car for you forever. You have until May 7th to make arrangements to get the car (at least) scheduled to be picked up. I would appreciate it if you did not call beyond 11:00 pm Eastern. Thanks! Mike - (850) 797-5201 On Apr-16-10 at 06:25:31 PDT, seller added the following information: Correction: Final payment due May 7th, not April 16th as listed above. I had originally planned on listing it back in early April when I wrote the description, but got delayed in listing it. (Life happens...)