Detail Info for: Ford : Mustang LX Hatchback 2-Door 1990 Ford Mustang LX Hatchback 2-Door 5.0L

Transaction Info

Sold On:
03/21/2013
Price:
$ 3700.00
Condition:
Mileage:
228000
Location:
Dallas, Texas, 75235
Seller Type:
Private Seller

Vehicle Specification

Year Make Model:
1990 Ford Mustang
Submodel Body Type:
Hatchback
Engine:
5.0L 302Cu. In. V8 GAS OHV Naturally Aspirated
Transmission:
Manual
VIN:
1FACP41E0LF225357
Vehicle Title:
Clear
Drive Train:
Fuel Type:
Standard Equipment:
Optional Equipment:

Vehicle Detail

I'm selling my 1990 LX 5.0 5-spd hatchback. The odometer reads 28000, but I assume the actual mileage is 228000. I drive this car most days, but it's time to let it go. I'm a mechanic by profession, I'm picky and observant, and I feel that I can give you a complete and honest assessment of this vehicles condition, and I'll disclose everything I've found while owning the car. If you've been looking at fox mustangs, you'll know that most have been ridden pretty hard in this price range, but most sellers will tell you "hey it just needs some TLC!". I've bought and sold quite a few Fox's they are well over 20 years old now and are starting to need a bit of work. You are not going to find a perfect car in this price range, and you'll be fortunate to find one in comparable condition, but beware of the seller that tells you his is perfect for 5k! That being said, none of this stuff bothers me enough to mess with it, or keeps it from being a fun and reliable car, and the restoration market is really picking up steam, there are places like NPD and LMR that have everything you need to get started, parts are cheap and easy to replace on these cars. Very fun car to do weekend projects on. Exterior: Paint is fair and looks great in the sun, original color as I understand it. Pony wheels have been repainted and look fair. The vehicle has been in a wreck at some point, probably shortly before I got it. The LF fender and bumper were replaced, and the inner fender is wrinkled up from the damage. The LF wheel is visibly pushed back in the wheel well. The bumper support is broken on drivers side (behind the bumper cover). It is not slathered in bondo, what you see is how it is. It has a chip on the roof around the size of a quarter. The hood is black on top but body color on the inside, with a few scuffs on the front of the hood that should buff out. The drivers door just had hinge pins put on, and you need to push down a little to close the door, the opposite of most fox mustangs on the market. To repair, the fender needs to be pulled and the hinges adjusted. The door and hatch weatherstripping needs to be replaced, the hatch opens and closes well (new supports) but the weatherseal keeps it from rattling and exhaust fumes from entering. The GT bumper has some curb damage. Headlights, turn signals, and taillights all work, although the turn signal flasher is slow. The windows are not tinted. There is a crack in the windshield out of the line of sight. The door belt molding and quarter window seals are chipping away, particularly on the drivers side. All of these items are available from a place like latemodelrestoration.com. Interior: The drivers seat cover is torn a little on the bolster, and is a little discolored. It could be cleaned and stitched up if you are inclined, but I can only find upholstery as a set and the other seats are in pretty good condition. The drivers armrest pad has come loose and would have to be replaced. The instrument cluster trim has some broken clips and is a little loose, but doesn't give me any problems otherwise. The radio is the stock cassette with premium sound, but the right rear speaker is blown (and disconnected). Ashtray is there but needs the spring kit. The power locks do not work. The power windows work but are a little slow. The power mirrors work somewhat, they really need new mirrors if you want the power to work, but I usually just move them by hand. The a/c doesn't work but is all there, the heater core is leaking and is disconnected. The fan does work properly. The airbag light is on and I have not looked into the cause. The steering wheel is a leather wheel and has a cover on it because it's worn. The map light is there but doesn't light up. The sunvisors are there but coming apart. The passenger door lock does not work, the door will not lock even with the key. I would assume that a lock rod clip is broken. Drivers works perfect. The rear seats fold down and lock perfectly, the hatch trim needs new clips so I have taken it off, but I do have it. The shock nut access covers in the rear are there, but do not lock in place. The only rust I have found on the car is in the spare tire well, where tools were rolling around scratching up the paint. No perforation, no need to repair, but if I was keeping the car I'd clean it up and at least spray paint it. Drivetrain: Smog pump and EGR are gone, and the cats have been removed. The car still passed tailpipe emissions inspection, and the inspection and registration are new. I think the IAC sticks a little, I have to give it gas for about 5 seconds when it's cold, after that everything works properly. Engine does not burn any oil, and no abnormal noises. Thermostat works properly, car stays cool, oil pressure is good, and voltage is good. The transmission shifts into all gears, but the 1-2 synchro is getting old, so I have to bump second gear and then put it into first. No grinding, it just wont slow down 1st gear otherwise. New u-joints and no vibration on or off throttle, the rear end is good and has working Traction-Lok. I think it is a 2.73 rear end, and the speedo is slightly off, the car should have a 3.08. Susp/Steering: New rear shocks, the front shocks are ok but mismatched, no excessively worn suspension components. It has front and rear sway bars, the front sway bar (1 5/16"!) has new bushings and end links. The thick sway bars make it ride a little stiff, but not excessively. Power steering pump is a reman NAPA part with internal filter. Rack and tie rods are ok, LCA bushings are ok, rear control arms are all ok. Someone has repaired the torque boxes, which commonly separate on the v8 cars, and while it's not pretty, I've concluded it is a solid repair. It has weld on subframe connectors as well. The steering wheel is a little off center but the vehicle drives straight, doesn't pull or have any issues turning. Very good road manners. You can see a walkaround on youtube.com/watch?v=PpuQA-LtbFE I have a clear Texas title, in my name, no lien, with the correct address. I'll fill out a 130-U for you as well.

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