1971 Suzuki TS125R Duster

TS12522751

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1971 Suzuki TS-125R "Duster" AS-IS/NOT RUNNING (complete restoration, broken flywheel bolt) I am selling this bike in AS-IS condition because it is NOT RUNNING. I just finished a complete 2 year restoration on this bike and sheared off the threaded end of the crankshaft that holds the flywheel on during replacement of the primary coil in the magneto. I have no further desire to work on this bike so I am abandoning the project and selling it off AS-IS. The bike did run and drive but suddenly lost all spark. I replaced the ignition coil and was reassembling the flywheel after replacing the primary magneto coil when I suffered the catastrophic failure of the crank end. PROJECT DETAILS: Originally a Texas bike w/2599 miles on it. Was running 2 years ago when I bought it. CLEAR "BLUE" 1972 original TEXAS title in the 2nd owner's name (signed and ready for transfer) Powder coated frame, footpegs, footpeg mounts, exhaust shield, kick stand, motor mounts, rear drum torque rod includes SUZUKI shop manual, parts manual, most receipts for the project *LAST picture of the yellow bike is the "before" picture prior to the restoration NEW: SHINKO (Golden Boy) tires front and back, Moose heavy duty tubes, and rim strip tape ALL BALLS wheel bearings, steering head bearings and seals OEM swingarm bushings all control cables RK 428 chain, rear sprocket front and back EBC brake shoes aftermarket rear shocks ALL BALLS fork seals and dust wipers OEM oil tank and cap non oem- rear fender, tail/brake light, fornt and rear turn signals 6volt battery OEM handlebar grips aftermarket mirrors OEM chrome exhaust heat shield OEM ignition coil and primary magneto coil aftermarket 6volt headlight REFURBISHED: handlebar controls (taken apart, cleaned, lubed, polished, painted) side covers, tank, front fender, engine covers painted w/Rustoleum "charcoal metallic" rattle can inside of tank cleaned wheels trued, spokes and center hubs painted w/black epoxy rattle can front forks dismantled, cleaned, fresh 20w fork oil, new seals and dust wipers carb cleaned and rebuilt with KEYSTER carb kit NO RESERVE AUCTION PICK-UP ONLY PICK-UP ONLY PICK-UP ONLY PICK-UP ONLY (I will assist shipper as much as possible that BUYER arranges) BUYER MUST PAY $100.00 deposit via Paypal and the balance in CASH at time of pickupOn Mar-08-13 at 07:05:50 PST, seller added the following information: * The last photos of the yellow bike and the disassembled yellow bike are pictures that were taken before the restoration. These are not extra parts for the bike for sale, they are pics of this actual bike that were taken to document the condition of the bike at the time I purchased it and to document the disassembly of the bike at the beginning of the restoration process*On Mar-08-13 at 17:53:13 PST, seller added the following information: To get the bike running the new owner will have to: 1) replace the crankshaft 2) troubleshoot and fix the "no spark" gremlin I rode the bike a dozen or so times around my neighborhood and to the gas station after I finally finished it last month with absolutely no problems. It was a 2- kick start at the most even when it was 40 degrees outside. A buddy and I rode to eat lunch and that was the longest trip I had made on the bike, about 4 miles and the fastest I ever went, about 60mph+. No problems going to the restaurant. After lunch the bike was a little hard to start, taking 5-6-7 kicks. After a quick stop at home depot about 1/5 mile away the bike was DEAD DEAD DEAD. I thought it was a thermal/heat failure and isolated the ignition coil and the primary magneto coil as possible suspects. I replaced the ignition coil AND the primary magneto coil because both were a little high when checked for resistance (not crazy off the scale but slightly out of spec according to the shop manual). I also cleaned and gapped the points AND replaced the condensor with all OEM parts. Excited to get the bike running again I was tightening the crankshaft nut to seat the flywheel and over-torqued it snapping the end off. The nut will engage about 3 threads, just enough to barely hold the flywheel on so I tried to start it AND STILL NO SPARK. *The ignition coil is supposed to be getting 300volts AC via the black/yellow tracer wire coming from the magneto. It is only getting 6-8volts AC at the ignition coil AND the same 6-8 volts AC coming straight out of the magneto. *The wiring harness has continuity all the way from the magneto to the ignition coil. All the brass contacts inside the palastic connectors have been cleaned/scraped with a small file and have had dielectric grease applied. *The engine block has a good solid ground and there is an additional frame ground straight off the battery that I have added. *I have asked several of my buddies for a diagnosis and everyone says, "it should run"... it should, but it doesn't. *All the information I can offer to the new owner is that whatever component failed, it failed as a result of getting too hot or too much vibration on the "long trip" to eat lunch