1994 Ford Mustang

GT Convertible Convertible

Dart block 347

5 speed

1FALP45T1RF149455

Clear

Gasoline

Some background on my car: Almost 18 years with this car... Quite a journey, but now it’s time to say ‘Good bye’. I bought this car in May of 1995. It originally had 17K miles on it. I drove it as my daily driver for apx 3 years before dedicating it as my exclusive weekend toy and show car. The main rebuild that includes the majority of upgrades took over a year to complete. During this time I upgraded to a Dart block based race engine built by the very reputable Ohio based race engine builder Watson-Rupple. It is a 347 Dart Sportsman engine fitted with a Eagle crank/H beam rods and custom Ross pistons (8.7:1 ratio.) The car has been driven less than 5000 miles since the engine has been rebuilt. Additionally during this time the entire car was repainted with a car show quality paint job using the original tri-coat Rio Red paint code from Ford. Many other modifications were performed during this rebuild including an entire suspension swap utilizing an aftermarket K-member and coil over shocks as well as a panhard bar and heavy duty torque arm in the rear. Other highlights include a bullet proof drivetrain including custom Moser axles and a modified rear end and tracloc along with 13" cross drilled and slotted rotors and SVT calipers in the front. (see complete modification list below.) Additionally the interior is customized with body color painted interior pieces, custom seats, gauges, lighting and the styling bar. The car is definitely a head turner and true street brawler with ~700hp on tap at the rear wheels (dyno sheet pictured below states 657rwhp (see video of dyno run below)... this was earlier when I was running a 6 rib S-trim blower.. Since then I have upgraded to a cog pullied T-Trim and is making much more HP. However, I have never been back to the dyno since then, but its quite a kick in the seat more than before :) ) 3 years ago I upgraded from the S-trim to a cog system along with a T-trim blower. Also ditched the SN-95 discharge style to a fox body discharge, Mondo bypass and fox bodt TB and throttle cable. Only way to describe the feeling on the street is insane. The combination of the higher ratio of 3.27 gears (went from 3.73 to 3.55s before hitting the perfect ratio with the power on tap with the 3.27s.) On the street the Hoosier DRs will hold a 2nd gear WOT hit (for the most part) on a good surface with alittle heat in them. Due to the car being a vert, I have had it to the track only a couple times. The last time was with the S-trim and it ran 11.35 @ 128 (see link to video below.) This was also with the methanol injection not on and with a subsequent 3* taken out of total timing. With the T-trim and meth working, I would speculate that low to mid 130's should be attainable. Also, due to the street/open track orientated suspension (3 link torque arm/panhard bar) setup (in lieu of a more drag oriented suspension set up that is usually found on high HP caliber cars such as this one) it is an absolute blast to drive on a windy road (as long as you respect the power and learn/get used to the nature of how the power builds/hits throughout the RPM range.) Since I have used the car exclusively as just a weekend toy and drive it very little (less than 700 miles a year for several years now) I always run a mix of 110 leaded race gas (turbo blue) and 93 (apx 8 gallons of race and 4 gallons of 93 is usually around what I will put in it each fill up.) Since the car has no cats and uses no O2 sensors (car is tuned via the PMS with a 'flat' tune with the computer receiving 0 volt signal from the O2 sensors) there is no disadvantage of running a mix of race/pump and keeps it safe from possible detonation. If someone would want to run only pump gas and go back to the O2s I still have my old tune available and it shouldn't be an issue. This is a very reliable car (given the HP it is producing) and the only issue would be that you should not run the fuel tank down past 1/4 tank. This is due to the position of the A1000 fuel pump and the fact that these pumps are gravity fed (so the more weight of fuel you have pushing down into the pumps the better.) I have heard that driving with only a little fuel in the tank can cause the pump to become hot and overheat. This has NEVER happened to me, but I just always make sure I keep plenty of fuel in it. ALso, the drivers seat has one small tear down low (where it is not very noticeable, and there is a paint chip on the drivers side front fascia at the very bottom (very hard to see) that has been touched up. I cant supply pics of both of these issues for a prospective buyer. Thank you. Here is a pretty comprehensive modification list. I'm sure Ive missed some items and little stuff, but this should cover the big and important stuff... Engine: 347ci Dart Block Sportsman Eagle crank and H beam rods, Forged Ross pistons (8.7:1) Machine work and engine build performed by Watson-Rupple (reputable race engine builder in Ohio) SFI Damper Canton 7qt Oil pan Ed Curtis custom grind cam AFR 185cc heads 1.6 Scorpion Rockers Holley SystemaxII lower intake (polished) Saleen/Vortech Upper Intake (polished & cast supplemental injector bosses ground smooth and polished.) Fluidyne Radiator Polished Vortech T-Trim blower upgraded with cog belt system (includes both 28 and 32 tooth upper and belts.) Polished Vortech discharge with Mondo bypass Jet Hot coated (both in and out) Anderson Power Pipe Polished 75mm TB Over $900 in AN fittings/hoses. Drivetrain: Tremec 3550 transmission rebuilt with cryo hardened 2nd gear & countershaft gear Spec 3 clutch Ford Motorsport Aluminum driveshaft Stock rearend rebuilt with extra clutch/friction plate mod 31 spline Moser axles Suspension: UPR Front K-member and a-arms. Adjustable coil over shocks Kenny Brown double X subframe connectors Maximum Motorsports Heavy Duty torque arm Maximum Motorsports adjustable Pan Hard bar (aluminum) Maximum Motorsports weight jacker adjustable lower control arms Front Wheels: 18 x 9 Torque Thrust chrome Rear Wheels: 18 x 11.5 Torque Thrust chrome (wheels were widened by Weldcraft in Livonia MI) 1" Maximum Motorsports rear spacers 13" SVT/Cobra Front brake calipers. 13" slotted and drilled rotors Tires: Front 265/30/18 Pirelli P-Zero Nero Rear 315/30/18 Pirelli P-Zero Nero (both front and rears have more than half tread remaining; very good shape.) Rear 315/30/18 Hoosier Drag Radials (2 sets of tires go with the deal.) Exhaust: BBK 1 3/4" Longtubes Jet Hot Coated both inside and out Dr Gas X pipe (off road) Flowmaster 3 chambers (dumps, no tailpipes) Fuel System: Complete Aeromotive system tank to rails (Sumped tank, 2 #10 lines leading to Aeromotive 1000 pump (pre and post filters), #8 line from rear to Y block splitter under hood. Two #8 lines to rails and #8 rails to regulator. #6 line from regulator back to tank. Aermotive Digital Pump Controller 55#/hr low impedance injectors Pro M 83mm MAS Exterior: Complete car show quality paint job (Ford factory Rio Red tricoat paint) 1998 OEM Cobra Hood (original factory fiberglass Ford hood, not aftermarket) 1994 OEM Ford Cobra front valance (original, not aftermarket) 1994 OEM V6 rear bumper cover (says "MUSTANG") Factory wing removed and all holes filled and smoothed/painted Saleen OEM rear Tonneau cover Projector beam headlights and clear side marker lights Interior: Corbeau Seats 4pt Racing Harnesses Custom Painted pieces White gauges, carbon fiber overlay, custom gauges & pods Cobra leather boot and various other items Electronics: Anderson Ford Motorsports PMS Low Impedance Injector Driver Updated Harness adapter PMS Innoative datalogging capability Wide Band O2 MSD Ignition Coolingmist methanol injection (programmed and activated through PMS) Links to some Youtube Videos of my car (ebay wont let me post links in my ad... just go to 'Youtube' and type in the search field there my user name: "kbishop94" and you can see the videos described below): Video of dyno run (657rwhp. This was with old S-trim. Car now has been upgraded to a T-trim and making much more power) *but never been back to dyno so cant verify how much more.) Video of 1/4 mile run. Again, this was when it had the old S-trim so cannot verify how fast it will go with the bigger blower that is now on the car (never been back to the track since then... mid 130's is my guess.) Video of me walking around the car (car not running) Video of me walking around the car (car running) Video of engine shot while its running with the new T-trim blower on it (note: whistle you hear is not present anymore,,, had to drill small pilot hole and TB blade and it got rid of it.) On Jan-14-13 at 11:32:34 PST, seller added the following information: EDIT: 1/14/13: I see that the carfax on my car shows that it was in an accident on 10/28/2010. This is NOT correct. I was in my van when someone rearended me. I have the accident report and data to PROVE this. The only thing I can think of is the insurance agent recorded the wrong vin when reporting this(?) I dont know how it is on this report, but again, I can prove and I state that it was NOT my mustang in the accident as listed on the car fax. (the other one listed in 1999 is correct. This was a 'fender bender' causing light damage to the driver side rear when it rubbed against a concrete barrier while dirving on the interstate. That is the only accident the car has been in. Thanks, and get in touch with me if anyone has any other questions.) On Jan-16-13 at 14:11:15 PST, seller added the following information: Edit on 1/16/2013: I have some additional information regarding the incorrect accident listed on the vehicle report on 10/28/2010. After some investigating it turns out it wasn't the insurance agent as I originally suspected, but instead it was the officer who wrote up the orginall accident report. Without writing a complete book here about what happened, let me just say that the officer incorrectly wrote down the wrong vehicle on the report. This was done in error due to the document I gave to him the day of the accident... I did not have my registration with me that day and instead I only had my proof of insurance to give to him... this insurance document had BOTH of my vehicles listed on it (van and mustang) He incorrectly wrote down the MUSTANG instead of the van that I was actually driving that day. I have already contacted my local police department and they have assured me that they will correct the accident report. I have also contacted Experian Auto and they also assured me that once the correct documentation is provided to them they will vacate the disputed line on the auto report. Unfortunately, this will be Monday at the earliest it can be done (the police department will not be able to get it done until Friday afternoon... this means it will be Monday before I can send off the documentation to the representative at Experian I spoke with.) Because of this, I am prepared to state that having the accident on 10-28-2010 removed from the report will be contingent upon the sale. (I've already had 1 ebay bidder contact me and tell me it sounds like BS, but this is all I know to do... I will have it corrected or you dont have to take the car.) Thank you. On Jan-16-13 at 14:15:16 PST, seller added the following information: EDIT on 1-16-2013: It appears my Optima battery is completely dead. I have another battery in its place, but since 1 of the pictures shows a red Optima battery, I wanted to state this is not the battery currently in the car. Thanks.