1963 Triumph Other

CT 10105 L

Normal 0 false false false EN-US X-NONE X-NONE In this car you have a rare opportunity to buy a very early TR4 which has never been mistreated, junked, or altered. It's a great car to enjoy now and hold for the future. I think the TR4 is a good compromise between the roughness and discomfort of the TR3- having rollup windows grows on you!, and the newishness of the TR6 The car is almost “one-owner’. It was purchased in Georgia in April 1964. I bought it one year later on April 5, 1965. In all the time I've owned it, it has never been abused or treated as less than a primary car. It has never been out of the South to salty streets. There has never been significant damage or malfunction. It has been garaged for the last 35 years. I have a two car garage in the basement and space further in for two more cars. I stopped driving it 20 years ago when I started driving another car to work and moved the TR further in, where it was more trouble to get out. When I placed it in dry storage, it was in top condition. While I was driving it, I took as much interest in perfecting it as in driving it. I was one of the founders of the TR Club of the Carolinas. In our local TR club the car won many awards and was the best "go to" model for how the original TR looked. The identification number is CT 10105 L and may actually have been one of the first TR4’s made. It has TR3 type seats, painted dash, and longneck radiator with a hole for hand cranking. Triumph was working out the parts they had left from TR3 production. In all my work I have sought to maintain this original condition. I wanted it mechanically perfect for the long-term and kept original, but not restored as a car only for show, but as a car to drive. It has 122,000 original miles. The completely rebuilt engine has 15,000 miles on it, the completely rebuilt transmission has 8,000 miles, and the restoration of the body has 7,000 miles on it. The new body work has never been rained on! So it is virtually new in major mechanical systems. The body needed only cosmetic work. There was no significant rust. The front floorboards were rusty, but could be stabilized without replacing them. Since Triumph chose to drain rainwater through the rocker panels, these had modest rust which was repaired. There was no need to pull the body off the frame. The hood, trunk, bumpers, windshield, all chrome, and the fenders were removed. All the body parts were stripped to bare metal before professional repainting. For durability I chose acrylic enamel. In matching the paint, the red does not exactly match the original. There is a 6 by 12 inch spot of damaged paint inside trunk where a bottle of brake fluid leaked. New beading was placed between the fenders, all new rubber was used, and better chrome parts were found when desirable. The interior was also completely restored. It has new door panels, rugs, padded dash, transmission tunnel, convertible top, tonneau cover, the best original steering wheel I could find, and rebuilt seats. This is a very early TR4 and the seats are the kind of real bucket seats from the TR3. A professional upholsterer rebuilt the seats to the original specifications with the vinyl material being used on the back of Cadillac leather seats. I had a professional mechanic completely restore the engine, before it was really necessary. We replaced every part it was at all reasonable to do. This includes pistons and sleeves, all the bearings, camshaft, oil pump, water pump, the head and valves, timing chain and gears, motor mounts etc. At the time leaded gas was still around and hardened valve seats were not necessary, so an additive is used in the gasoline. My expert TR mechanic completely rebuilt the transmission and clutch. In the transmission we found no damage and little wear, but replaced all of the wearing parts such as bearings, synchronizers and spacers. As a club project we all changed the hydraulic fluids to silicone. When I stopped driving the car there were no problems. I have most of the records and receipts back to the time I purchased the car. Before driving the car again I would recommend going through the car thoroughly to prepare it. This would include changing the oil, lubing the wheel, checking the hydraulics (I have the kits if needed.), doing minor rebuilds on the carburetors (I have the kits, if needed.), changing antifreeze, minor fixes, a new battery, and buying new tires before extensive road use. If anything is far off from what I have said, I will consider an adjustment. I have whole oil boxes of spare parts I will include and will give you any advice you want on the car. There are 2 boxes of new spare parts and 2 boxes of small used parts, worth probably $500 to $1000. The new parts appear to include fuel pump, dist. cap, valve cover gasket, many rebuild kits for carbs and hydraulics, knobs, and more. The used parts are hydraulic cylinders, speedometer and tach, tail light assemblies, and more. The big repair manual and original Owners Manual are included. A seller would spend as little as possible getting a car ready while a buyer would buy the best. So I plan to leave the startup work to the buyer – its part of the fun anyway. I expect the bids would be a little less to account for this. I have set a low reserve price and believe you can get a great car at a great price. If you have questions, email or call me, Frank, at 704-553-1413. I will work closely with your shipper to do what I can to get the car to you in good shape. I also have a set of wire wheels, hubs, and spin offs we can talk about. This is a great classic British sports car and you are unlikely to find a better, more original, more fairly priced car. Good luck !