1966 Ford Mustang

Fastback Other

8 - Cyl.

Manual

6R09A231151

Gasoline

You are bidding on a 1966 A code Mustang with a built aluminum head 289 with a 5 speed. The car is a restomod and is about 90-95% finished, but financial obligations have caused me to sell this car right now without being able to work some of the kinks out (Please read entire post). It has much more invested in parts alone than where the reserve is set. You know the story… Engine: This 289 was professionally bored (.030 over), decked, line honed, balanced, and had the rods reconditioned with ARP bolts added. It has aluminum ProComp heads (210 cc runner, 60 cc chamber, 2.05 intake and 1.6 exhaust. Lift up to .550) with roller rockers and ARP bolts. Pistons are Keith Black hypereutectic at close to 11.0:1 compression. Camshaft is a Melling with .498 and .520 lift (same specs as Edelbrock Performer RPM). It has all new rings, bearings, oil pump, and gaskets. New chrome Tri-Y headers, new chrome oil pan, new aluminum valve covers, new aluminum intake, rebuilt Edelbrock 600 carb, new balancer, new water pump, new Pertronix module, new Accel ignition coil, new plugs, wires, cap and rotor, new Air cleaner, new radiator and hoses, new mini starter, new 1 wire alternator, new Autozone battery, new fuel pump, new z bar and clutch pedal bushings (it needs clutch and brake pedal pads), and all new clutch assembly (Mcleod Street Pro diaphragm) with resurfaced flywheel. The car has a T5 5 speed conversion. It has the 5.0 bell housing with a used T5. The T5 seems to shift fine, but has a loud whine in 1st and 2nd gear (this is a common thing, according to several Mustang message boards). The driveshaft was balanced with new u-joints. Body: New quarter skins, new door skins, new deck lid, new fenders, new hood and hood springs, new cowl, new firewall, new inner fenders and shock towers (VINs were riveted back to their original places), new export brace and Monte Carlo bar, new radiator support, new floor pans, new front and rear valances, new bumpers and bumper mounts front and rear, new taillights and headlights, new gas cap, new gas tank and sender with new metal fuel line from tank to fuel pump, new window moldings, new outside mirror, and new emblems. It was painted a year and a half ago in Lime Gold (a ’67 color) in two stage. Undercarriage has been painted and looks good. All rust issues have been corrected. The best way to describe the body, paint, and trim is to say the fit and finish is a good driver quality. The paint has some minor runs and orange peel in the clear coat. Door gaps and deck lid gaps aren’t perfect (this is a 66 Mustang after all), but not bad. Glass in the car is driver quality and shows its age with minor scuffs and scratches. The windshield is new. All moldings on the car are new. This is not an award winning car, but would be a good cruiser and I would feel fine about it being in a show. Suspension: This car has all new brakes. The front has the Granada disc brake conversion with all new rotors, pads, calipers, and hoses. The rear drums have all new shoes, drums, and wheel cylinders. All new brake lines with a new adjustable proportioning valve and new master cylinder. All new suspension bushings, tie rod ends, new upper and lower control arms, new shocks front and rear, new lowering springs in front and Grab-a-trac lowering springs in the rear with a lowering block added. All new exhaust from the headers back to the GT exhaust tips that exit through the valance. Wheels are Coys 17” with brand new tires with less than 1 mile on them. The car hasn’t been aligned yet, so it will need it. Most of the lug nuts are new; the rest are used because I didn’t get around to finishing the complete set. Interior: New parchment seat covers (the seat and headliner upholstery was only installed about 2 weeks ago and has a few wrinkles that should go away with time and use), new parchment-dyed dash pad, new Grant wood steering wheel, new parchment door panels, new ivy gold carpet and parchment fold down carpet, new parchment-dyed rear panels (they need to be adjusted so when the rear seat folds forward, they rest properly), new gauge plastic and housing (instrument panel is only held in by two screws right now), new kick panels, new door sills, brand new seat belts, new parchment headliner, new trunk mat, new aftermarket radio (I just installed it for the pictures. It isn’t wired up), and new front speaker. Years ago somebody cut holes for speakers in the back, but I didn’t get around to installing anything in them. They are wired, though. New heater duct work, new ignition switch and key, new turn signal and signal cam, new shift knob and boot, new door locks. I have a new Sun tach for it that isn’t installed. It has a 3 gauge cluster, but only oil pressure is hooked up. The original gas gauge, oil pressure, and temp gauge all seem to work. I have the speedo cable, but it isn’t installed. The interior is, in my opinion, a nice driver quality. Please Read!!!The car is not finished. I planned on fixing the following issues, but my time and money have run out. The car is not quite ready to just jump in and drive. The two biggest issues are: The car seems to have a major vacuum leak, or at least has some of the symptoms. It runs, but has a rough idle and only reads at about 8 psi on a vacuum gauge. It doesn’t seem to have near the power I think it should and has a hard time getting going. Compression and oil pressure a good, so that helps narrow it down. There are no hose leaks or carb vacuum leaks, so it could be several things: Carb issue? Timing chain? Bad distributor? Flat cam lobe? Broken piston ring? It could be something simple or something relatively major, you just need to know. The second problem is it has clutch shudder, and especially bad on an incline. According to a whole bunch of message boards, it could be: Pinion angle (it has been lowered quite a bit), clutch fork alignment (maybe a cable driven fork would fix it. I can include a 5.0 fork if you want), too high of gears for this engine setup (it is a stock 3.00 8” rear end), clutch or throw out bearing (throw out and input shaft bearings are new), or an issue with the transmission itself. Other issues include: I noticed some water leaking inside the car when I washed it. I haven’t taken the time to seek the problem out, but from what I’ve read, practically all these Mustangs leak. The horn is wired up, but doesn’t work. The heater fuse blows out easily. The dash lights aren’t working. There is a tick when the engine idles (it’s either an exhaust leak or a noisy rocker arm. I’ve adjusted the rockers several times). There is a small coolant leak from the lower hose (it might need a different hose). The brake system is new and I haven’t fine-tuned the rear brakes with the proportioning valve yet. The battery I bought doesn’t work with the clamp. It will need a hold down system put together for it. Wipers work, but the driver side is a bit sloppy (new blades, too). I have driven the car around my block twice, so I really haven’t been able to tell how it does at higher speeds or long trips, etc. I am doing my best to tell you all the issues I know of, but this is an old car that has not even really been driven since it was put back together, so there is the potential of more issues. You just need to know that. I’m being as honest as I can so there are no surprises when you see the car. Buying: Any buyers with less than 5 on their account will be blocked. A non-refundable down payment of $500.00 to PayPal is due within 48 hours of auction end. The highest bidder agrees to pay the remaining balance with CASH or CASHIER’S CHECK within 7 days of auction closing. Absolutely no more time will be allowed. Car WILL NOT be shipped or delivered until funds are approved. Clean title in my name. Car must be picked up within 14 days of auction close. A storage fee of my determination will begin after that time. You are responsible for shipping. The car is not drivable for any real distance (alignment), so it must be shipped. Failure to meet these requirements will mean immediate loss of deposit and/or loss forfeit of auction. Car is sold AS IS with no warranty expressed or implied. If you have any questions, contact me. I would strongly urge you to see the car in person, if at all possible or have a knowledgeable friend or mechanic come look at the car for you. I want you to be satisfied with the car. I am not responsible for what you perceive you are bidding on! Thanks! On Apr-01-12 at 09:02:58 PDT, seller added the following information: I forgot to add: Motor mounts are new (Autozone) and the weatherstipping for the deck lid, windshield, rear window, and doors are new (but not the front vent windows). I do have the rubber plug set for things like the seat bolt access holes underneath. Most of those haven't been installed but I do have tham. Tires and wheels are: Front 17x7 (225/45) and Rear 17x8 (245/45). Thanks.On Apr-01-12 at 09:07:39 PDT, seller added the following information: Also, the Utah plates are not included.