1963 Volvo Other

P1800 Coupe

Miata 1.8 fuel injected

Manual

6396

Clear

Gasoline

You are bidding on an used 1963 Volvo P1800 with Miata engine and transmission conversion. I bought the car about 2 years ago because I really like the uniqueness of the P1800 and love the look. The car was sitting outside at the previous owner's house for about a year. The car was not running and had to be towed home. After getting the motor to turn over and fixing few items, I was able to drive the car for about a summer. The original motor started to smoke and transmission wouldn’t go into overdrive. Instead of rebuild the motor and trans, I decide to swap out the powertrain. I wanted a reliable engine with minimum modification to body. After looking at several engine options, I decided that the Miata engine and trans would be the best fit. I could have brought an entire used Miata, but most of them had high mileage. So, I decided to order an used JDM engine and trans combo (wiring, ECU, MAF…) from a vendor in Dallas. Since these engines have less than 50K miles, I knew it will last. Plus, it a Miata power train with lots of aftermarket parts and I could install a turbo if I needed more power. With the engine and tranny out, I completely refreshed the engine (see below for power train description). Few modification had to be done to the engine bay to fit the new power train. The cross member was notched about ¼” to clear the oil pan. Center part of the firewall cut about one inch to clear the rear part of the engine. The transmission tunnel was widen a little to make more room for the shifter area. The engine and transmission went in the car as one unit with an engine hoist. Original wiring was rewired to eliminate unnecessary items and properly fused every power line. With a new custom drive shaft and exhaust, I was able to drive it this spring. Being fuel injected, the car starts up right away and idles smoothly every time. My original plan was to have the car sent out for some body work and paint, but decided it’s not something I want to go into further. I did some mock up modification to the front bumper by cutting out the “horns” and tucking the bump to the body. Since it now has a solid power train, I’m going to let the next owner finish the car. I need the space in the garage and I have other projects I want to spend the money on. I tried to describe the condition of the car as best as I can with what I know and having worked on the car. My description might be little bias and subjective so if you don’t want to take me word for it, you are welcome to check out the car. Below is a link to the Flicker site for all the detail pictures. I organized the picture in several albums and added some comments. Let me know if you want any specific pictures taken or if you just need more info. The car is sold “AS IS” and I makes no warranties about the condition of the car. I have Oregon title in hand. The buyer is responsible for the transportation of the car, but I will help much as I can to get it to the new owner safely. I will also help answer any questions from the new owner about the car and modification since the car is somewhat custom. Link to detail Photos and comments: https://www.flickr.com/photos/133699054@N08/albums Pros: 1994 1.8 Miata NB drive train is reliable and should last an additional 100k mile with no issue. I did a compression test before the refresh and numbers were high (~190 psi) with no difference between cylinders. Refreshed with all new seal/gaskets, timing belt, water pump, and fluids. Miata coolant reroute has been done for better cooling (google if don’t know what this is for). Ignition Coil pack conversion done. Miata electric wiring was re-organized to eliminate unnecessary wiring and they are labeled for future referencing and troubleshooting. Upgraded cooling system with Griffin radiator and electric fan. The electric fan automatically turns on by the ECU. If you need more power, there’s lot of space for turbo and intercooler in the engine bay. Most of the body trim is there and in fair condition. There are some pitting in the chrome and will need polishing and/or refinished. The car’s original electrical wiring is in excellent condition. The previous owner replaced the entire original wiring to the car, so wires are not brittle or corroded. Brake light, parking light, turn signal, horn, wipers all work. The body is in rust free condition and the previous owner had sanded blasted the body/chassis before painting. I found lots of sand in the interior and exterior pockets that I had to flush out. New seam sealer was applied before painting the interior, under carriage, and engine compartment. Under carriage of the car is in excellent condition with no rust or frame damage. Under coating was applied through out the car by the previous owner. It was very clean when I got the car and didn’t have to anything to it. Suspension was completely rebuild with IPD poly bushing. Also the suspension pieces were bead blasted and painted during the rebuild. Alignment was done to have 3 degree positive caster (maximum with all shims taken out), -.5 camber and 1/8 toe in. Interior is in good condition with new carpet and seats. Most of the interior panels are original Volvo in good condition. Sound dampening and insulation installed. Extra power wires and conductors ran for future use (i.e. stereo/amp or battery relocation) Front Three point retractable seat belts were installed. Plates made with grade 8 bolts and nuts for anchor points. Brake calipers has been rebuilt with new pistons and seals. Rear drums were built with new cylinders. All the brake lines were change out with inverted double flare line with steel braided flex hoses. New clutch/brake master with new slave clutch cylinder. Alarm system with power lock feature. Power actuators were installed in the doors (passenger side need little adjustment). Good used tires (80%) and genuine BMW BBS rims with bolt on spacers. I also have the steel wheels w/ tires with Volvo hub cap if you want them. Aftermarket circle track Griffin radiator and electric fan from Summit Racing. Low cost and no problem ordering another one. Racing seats with adjustable track and reclining back rest. Cold air intake Manual windows and locks are in good working order. Custom fuel delivery system with reservoir and pump system under the rear of the car. The reservoir eliminates the low fuel in the tank by constantly providing fuel to the pump during cornering and acceleration. Weak part of this system is that there are possible multiple points of failure. My plan was to eventually go to a custom tank with in-tank sump pump set up. Some dents on the original fuel tank, but no leaks and rust free inside and out. I have misc. parts that will be included with the car such as interior/exterior pieces and any other parts in my garage. Cons: The brake system needs work. The rotors are little warped and need resurfacing or new rotors. My plan was to upgrade the brake system to a more modern rotor and calipers. Most of the brake plumbing system has been replaced with new parts. Brake master is from a 80’s RX7 which I think the bore size (3/4”) is too large for a manual brakes. New smaller bored master probably do will do a better job and less effort if staying with manual. Adding a booster will likely solve the issue. The car will stop with current system, but need more effort. Pedal is firm and no leak in the system. Exterior paint needs redone. The top area of the car has been exposed to sun and rain for few years. They are faded and chipped in few places (see pictures). The body is in rust fee condition, but I can see some signs of body work which probably done when the car was repainted. I can see some bondo work under the chip area of the paint. Open end differential with drum brakes. I believe the stock rear end is a Dana 27. Again my plan was to upgrade to a Ford 8.8 limited slip with disc brakes. Few Interior parts are missing. The rear seat needs redone. I just have a carpeted sheet covering the rear seat area. The original dash is covered with ABS plastic cover, which I think looks pretty good. Some of the gauges don’t work. The tach, oil pressure, and fuel gauges work. Speedo cable is hooked up to the transmission, but needle jumps around a lot. Temperature gauges in the middle does not work. Also the clock doesn’t work. Aftermarket temp gauge under the dash works fine. Front windshield has stone chips, pitting and scratches. Windshield looks to be original to the car. Rear window has some scratches but in good condition. Some of the original body seals need to be replace. I was going to do it when car got repainted. No headliner. I do have the original broken wooden frame for template if needed. No AC or heating. I didn’t bother since I live in Oregon and only planned to drive this in the summer. Stock AC compressor can be added to the Miata engine and install an aftermarket heating/cooling unit inside the car. Exhaust is little loud and raspy. I have an exhaust shop weld in new pipes, but didn’t change the original muffler. Door seals have some gap and needs replacement. Other little things that comes with 1963 old car. Rear has slight rubbing on the current tires when hitting big bumps. Here are the list of items replaced that I have logged during the process. Ball joints Lower Front Wheel Bearings and seals Front Caliper pistons and seals Rear brake cylinders Steering box rebuild bushing kit Front and rear suspension bushings (IPD poly) Spark plugs Front and rear VPD Progressive Springs Brake lines replaced with new double inverted flares Brake master from Mazda RX7 80s’ New front Brake pads Front brake steel braided hose Rear brake steel braided hose and adaptor Wheel adaptor/Spacer for front and rear from 5 - 4 ½ to 5 - 120 bolt pattern. Genuine BMW BBS wheels/tires – Center mesh plastic dip to vintage gold color Steering wheel adaptor to fit Grant steering wheels Front 3 point Seat belts Power cables for rear battery mount Fat Man sound mats and insulation/foam Racing Seats New custom made carpet Wilwood clutch master and OEM slave unit 94 JDM 1.8 Miata engine, 5 speed transmission, ECU, wiring, and MAF. New temperature sensors Oil pressure switch Splitfire coil pack conversion New OEM clutch kit with TO and pilot bearings. New input and output trans seals. Custom made drive shaft/balanced thermostat housing with new thermostat, timing belt, water pump, seals, and gaskets. Throttle cable and peddle New circle track Griffin radiator Fuel injectors rebuild cold air intake Energy Suspension Trans mount Heavy duty motor mounts from IPD. new O2 sensor Summit Racing Electric fan External high and low pressure fuel pump with filters Engine, transmission/turret, and rear differential fluid replaced.