1977 BMW R-Series

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HISTORY: I bought this motorcycle in "rat bike" condition from a fellow Motorcycle Safety Foundation instructor (Paul) on June 4th, 2009, about four months after my wife's death from breast cancer. The original paint was faded, the seat cover in shreds, repaired with duct tape. The base of the seat was rusted so I bought a Corbin seat on eBay. The bike's purpose was to get my mind aimed in a more productive direction and to fulfill a long-held dream of "fixing up" (not the same as "restoring") an "airhead" just the way I wanted it. I worked on it during the ensuing years. When it was finished (2012) and beautiful, my son, on his K1100RS and I, on this bike, took a ride to Tahlequah, a distance of 64 miles. I hadn't ridden in twenty years. At speed, the bike handled beautifully but I learned some hard to accept facts about myself. In my 70+ years, I seemed to have shrunk in height (5' 3", 120 pounds) and weakened in strength to the point that it was an ordeal to stop the motorcycle. In fact, it was not much fun. At one point, at a gas station, I got off balance and was unable to hold the bike up. I had to lay it down gently on the right cylinder head valve cover when I stopped in front of the pumps. I found I still knew how to do that without damage to the bike, but it did little to convince me that I should be riding. I rode home, parked the bike, and I haven't ridden since. For the past year and a half, the bike has been a decoration in my den. (See photos.) I don't think I'll ever ride again, unless I get a 250 Honda or a Can Am Spider, should my novel become a New York Times best seller. So here it is, in wonderful condition, ready for years of service to a younger rider, maybe even an Oklahoma Sooners fan. (If not, the decals on the side covers can be removed with heat from a hair dryer. (Photos 12, 15) At the time, I had a son in each university, Tulsa and Oklahoma, which should explain the side cover decals.) THE REBUILD: When I brought the bike home (on a pickup truck) I did a compression test. Defeating the ignition system, which at that time, still had points, I squirted a spurt of oil into each of the spark plug holes, cranked the engine until the oil pressure came up, then did a compression test. The left cylinder had 137 (pounds per square inch) and the right cylinder 132. Converted to metric, 9.59 and 9.24. Normal is 8.5 to 10.0. The valve adjustment was perfect (Yeah, Paul!) so I didn't feel the engine needed further mechanical attention. I bought a pair of "Real" float bowl gaskets, but the Bings have never leaked, so I've haven't needed them. They are still in the package and go with the bike. I installed a new Dyna III Electronic Ignition. (Paperwork included in file.) The transmission had a neutral instead of one of the gears. Paul had included another transmission, so I installed it. It works fine. I had bought a new clutch disc (Photo 16) but it wasn't needed. It is still in the box and included with the bike. I disassembled the bike down to the frame and found some bad places in the wiring, which I replaced with a loom from an '82 RT. Completely stripped, (the bike, not me) I painted the frame Crimson (actually Cherry Red) and the painted parts Cream (actually Porsche Silver Pearl White). The mirrors I used are also from an '82 RT, and are slightly larger than the original RS mirrors. I took the Corbin seat to Vanessa who reupholstered it to match the paint (Photo 14). The single-disc front braking system was replaced with a front fork (new seals) from an '82 R100RT, including the front fender and brace. The calipers were rebuilt and installed with stainless steel bolts, the same sizes and pitches as the original (photo 21). The front brake hydraulic lines were replaced with a custom system (Photos 20, 21, 24) created by James of Tulsa Brake and Clutch, using metric fittings and DOT approved braided stainless steel lines. They are designed in such a way that the calipers may be placed either forward of or behind the fork legs and the hydraulic lines reversed to fit. I've tried both. I like both, but it's a bit of a job to make the change. The fork legs need to be reversed at the steering head. Using new parts as needed and $131.37 (receipts in file) worth of new stainless steel and chrome nuts and bolts, the bike was reassembled. Note that Phillips head bolts in the fairing have been replaced with chrome "Button Head Allen" bolts in standard metric size, including thread pitch (Photos 8, 11, 17). Fasteners were installed with a light touch of anti-seize and torqued to BMW specs, if given in the manual. I replaced the frame bolts with stainless Allen button heads in order to allow the battery to be removed without separating the frame. The original (bent) side stand has been replaced with a "Brown's" (Photo 7) aftermarket one, which is much stronger, easier to use, and doesn't pop back up into place when a wind (Hey, this is Oklahoma!) unweights it while the bike is parked. The original center stand on these bikes had a slim metal piece which was intended to be used to raise and lower it. Like most of these old bikes, it was broken because people tend to mistake it for the lever on which one stands to put the bike on the center stand. I welded a nut in its place and used a bolt, covered with a rubber hose, to replace it. Stand on it if you like. It won't lever the bike up, but when it breaks or bends, you'll only have to replace a standard metric bolt instead of a center stand. The toolkit is extensive, but not entirely BMW. Years ago, I lost a Krauser saddlebag at speed because the lock (which stayed securely on the luggage rack) separated from the bag. The bag ended up being shards of broken plastic. After that I always used a set of bungee cords around the bags. I designed a safety system of short bungees and an eyelet on each bag to ensure it wouldn't happen again. (Photo 10). The locking system on this bike is different and may not need the safety measures. FAIRING WINDSHIELD: This is not stock BMW. It is an aftermarket unit designed to "flip" the slipstream over the driver's head and reduce helmet noise. I think it looks better as well. CONDITION: Here's what needs to be addressed: The battery. The bike has been sitting since 2012 with the ground wire disconnected. It tested six volts five minutes ago. Right saddlebag: There is a melted spot on the bottom where the exhaust has softened the plastic and made a small hole. I've not tried to fix it, planning originally to replace it when I found one on eBay. I think it could be made waterproof with a piece of roofers tape, which I have and will be willing to do if the winning bidder wants me to. It can't be seen unless the bag is removed and turned upside down. The hand grips: When we moved the bike to our new house, I wrapped tie downs around them and destroyed them. The toolbox: I'm (almost) sure I bought one for the bike but can't find it anywhere. If I do, I'll include it. One from an '85 or newer won't fit. PAYMENT: A deposit of $500, via PayPal, when the auction ends, the balance to be paid within a week or when the bike is picked up or shipped, whichever is sooner. SHIPPING: The buyer must pick the bike up in Broken Arrow or arrange shipping at his cost. I'll cooperate with your shipper but I can't do it for you. COMMUNICATION: Very important! If you have any questions, please ask via eBay communication facilities. If you just want to chat about bikes, send me a message. Motorcycles are my favorite subject!