1962 Willys

Pickup Truck

6 cylinder - L-226

3 speed with 2 speed transfer case

5526869467

Clear

Gasoline

Up for bids is a complete and original 1962 Willys Jeep 4x4 pickup truck with a clear title. The truck has been sitting for the last 27 years and has about 95k miles on it based upon the paper work that I have and the history of it. I don’t have absolute evidence of it but I suspect it’s the correct mileage judging from the wear and tear on the truck. This truck is a nice original one that’s getting harder to find these days. It’s never been re-powered, cut up, modified, trashed or lifted. I originally purchased this truck to part it out but after a closer examination decided that it’s much too nice and complete for that. It’s a good candidate to repair and use as a decent original working truck or to do a complete restoration. It was stored in a shed on a farm for a number of years and is pretty much the same way it left the factory except for a prior owners upgrade from a generator to an alternator with the accompanying amp gauge in the dash. THIS IS A PROJECT TRUCK AND YOU CAN’T DRIVE IT HOME. EMAIL ME VIA EBAY IF YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS OR NEED MORE DETAILED PHOTOS. I ENCOURAGE ALL PROSPECTIVE BIDDERS TO CONTACT ME SO WE CAN ARRANGE TO HAVE YOU STOP BY AND LOOK IT OVER IN PERSON. PLEASE READ THE FOLLOWING DETAILS ABOUT THE TRUCK PRIOR TO BIDDING ON IT.BODY Generally, the paint and everything else seems original and it appears that someone started to sand and primer some areas of it years ago. Some of the red and orange colors that you see in the pictures is primer and not rust. Except for minor surface rust and some very light pitting, the front bumper, front grill, cab, both doors, front fenders and front drip pan are solid steel without any sign of any bondo or major damage. There is one small area of rust out in the engine compartment on top of the inner fender well. Also, it looks like a small area on one side of the hood had a skim coat applied but I don’t see any dent in that area, otherwise it’s in good shape. The bottoms of both doors are solid but the passenger side door on the bottom of the panel skin where it’s welded to the bottom of the door is slightly rusted but I think some prep and brushing on a rust encapsulator (I prefer POR15) will save it from further deterioration. Also, the front drip pan still retains its original front mounting tabs. Both front fenders have small bends in the bottoms that can be bent back out. The top surface of the driver’s side front fender appears to have had a device attached to it at one time and is an easy fix. The cab itself is in very good shape for its age. The heaviest pitting is above the windshield and around the mount for the side view mirror. The cab corners are excellent without any visible damage. Surprisingly, all the glass in the cab including the somewhat rare original one piece windshield is excellent without any cracks or delamination. The front windshield gasket is dried out and I see a place on the defroster vent where it’s been leaking. The seat is usable as is and only has one small tear on the back cushion. The floor pans will need to be replaced with replacement pans or you can fabricate your own. The pan support brackets are rusted and pitted but are still solid and could be reused but personally, I would just replace them with the pans as they’re not expensive items. The rocker panel floor braces underneath each door are rusty but are still solid and can be saved with a rust encapsulator. The floor under the seat is solid and just needs to be cleaned up and some rust encapsulator brushed or sprayed on. It appears that some idiot ripped out the dash cover plate in front of the steering wheel but it can be easily hidden with a strip of sheet metal. I have a spare dash cover plate that I’ll include with the truck. This cab still has the original vinyl covered roof headliner installed in it. On the driver’s side, the door handle trigger fell off but you can pick up a used parts handle and replace it. The passenger side door handle was working but the spring inside it must have snapped which can be replaced. I mention the door handles because no one makes reproduction handles for these trucks so you need to find used ones or repair what you have. The horn button and one vent window handle are missing but I should have spares. If I have them, I’ll include them with the truck. The original 7 style stainless steel trim is complete and has a total of 3 very minor dents in it that can be straightened out by hand. The headlight and parking light chrome trim are also in good condition. TRUCK BED The original bed is pretty well beat up but is repairable or you can replace it with a reproduction bed or a used one or convert it to a flat bed. The bed skirts and rear fenders are solid with a couple of small dents in the fenders. The front bed panel is decent and the tailgate is straight and in decent shape. The side panels and the floor are the worse part of the bed as they have a few dents on the sides and are rotted on the bottoms. Also, the floor is shot. The bottom support brackets and bed frame are rusted and pitted but are still solid. You can buy a complete reproduction bed or the individual parts but personally, I would remove the remaining steel floor out of it and brush or spray some rust encapsulator on the bottom bed support brackets and on the bottoms of the side panels and then cut some sheet metal to size and screw or weld it onto the bottom portions of the side panels to shore them up. I’d just use treated wood on the bed floor. It wouldn’t be considered as restored but would be a good working bed while still looking original. I’m also including with the truck a set of good side panels that are designed to be bolted in. These are not reproduction panels but were formed on an industrial press to fit a Willys pickup truck. I had all the stake pockets that were pressed for these panels but I have not located them yet. If I can find them, they will be included, otherwise you will need to go to a metal fabrication shop and have them cut and fabricated. If you don’t want the extra side panels, I’ll deduct $100.00 off the final price of the truck. I’ve repaired a number of these rusty beds before and have had excellent results by giving the measurements to a metal fabrication shop for them to cut and press the sheet metal needed to repair them. I then take them home and weld or bolt them in place. These metal fabrication shops are generally much cheaper than going through an automotive body shop. ENGINE The original L-226 Super Hurricane engine is out of the truck and doesn’t run. It doesn’t look like anyone has ever taken it apart but one of the prior owners pulled the head and then let it sit for a number years. I’m not sure why the head was removed but it’s locked now. I did soak the cylinders in acetone and ATF and tried to spin the engine with an impact wrench but so far it remains locked. If you can get it unlocked, then it’ll probably run but I would assume it needs to be rebuilt. You could replace it with another used Willys engine or re-power it with a modern V8 engine. All of the original parts (head, distributor, radiator, alternator, air cleaner carburetor, gas tank, filler tube etc.) along with the bolts and nuts will go with the truck. There’s also an old but complete gasket set that will be included. FRAME The frame has light rust and pitting but it’s still very solid and straight. There are two areas between the bed and cab that typically can cause problems with these trucks. While the frame itself is straight and solid, there are two gussets between the bed and cab on each side of the frame have some rot and should be replaced. I included pictures of each side. Also, I recommend prepping and brushing on some rust encapsulator on the entire frame and all of the gussets. The replacement gussets are available at most Willys parts suppliers. MISC. The front locking hubs are Power Lock units and all 5 tires hold air but are dry rotted. The steel brake lines have been replaced by a prior owner but I’m sure the rubber hydraulic lines, wheel cylinders and master cylinder will also need to be replaced. I also have a box of all of the original engine parts as listed above, some misc. parts, gas tank, tank straps and filler tube that will be included with the truck. I’ve temporarily remounted the bed, frame skirts, tailgate, rear fenders, and spare tire carrier for safe transport on a trailer. After the auction ends, I can place the engine in the rear of the bed or I can help put it in the back of your truck. I can also assist in loading the truck onto your trailer. If you are shipping the truck, I will work with your shipper but you need to make all of the arrangements and pay for it. I’d rather not but I can deliver this truck to you within a reasonable distance for $1.50 per loaded mile as long as the truck and towing costs are paid in advance. PLEASE CONTACT ME PRIOR TO BIDDING IF YOU THINK THAT YOU MAY WANT IT DELIVERED. You can also leave the truck here for some time as long as it’s fully paid for. I expect a $500.00 nonrefundable deposit via PayPal within 24 hours after the auction closes and the balance to be paid within 7 days.This truck is being sold as is and is also for sale locally so I reserve the right to end the auction early. This is a no reserve auction and I’m starting it at what I believe is the parts and scrap value of the truck. Thanks! 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