1971 BMW R-Series

2981539

Clear

With great reluctance, I am selling my 1971 BMW R75/5 motorcycle. Since the birth of my son, I ride this motorcycle very rarely. Rather than let it deteriorate in my garage, I am passing it on to the next airhead enthusiast. I purchased this motorcycle in 2008, and I have only put approximately 200 miles on it. I was informed that the motorcycle was originally sold in Europe, and was then imported into the US. I have no paperwork to that effect, but I believe it to be true insofar as the speedometer and odometer are calculated in kilometers. Ebay required the mileage to be stated in miles, hence I converted from kilometers. The odometer displays 25,399 kilometers. The bike is in stock condition, and the reflectors, handlebars and mirrors are European spec, not U.S. I paid over $800 for a new paint job in 2008. The tank and fenders were painted BMW black, and all were pinstriped in white. Although the paint looks excellent, I have recently noticed some small bubbles on the top left edge of the tank, near the seat. I do not know what these are. They are very hard to see in direct sunlight, and I have done my best to photograph them. Rubber kneepad on right side of tank is losing adhesion, and I will leave it to buyer to reglue this using contact cement. I also have a leather tank bra, which I have never installed. It would cover the aforementioned bubbles if you wished to install it. Mechanically, the bike is sound. I just took it for an hour long ride and it ran and shifted smoothly with no problems. I must disclose that the bike seems a bit "cold blooded" when being started up at the beginning of the day. I have previously owned an R60/6 and and R65, and in comparison this bike requires a couple more pushes on the starter button to get going. It does have the stock ignition, which utilizes points, so perhaps an electronic ignition or a tuneup would be in order. Kickstarter is functioning properly. The previous owner told me he had done a spline lube just prior to his selling it. As near as I can tell, the frame paint is original, and has the sort of paint scrapes and superficial rust you would expect to see on a motorcycle approaching the half-century mark. The tachometer needle was broken when I purchased the bike, so I had a new one installed by Overseas Speedometer. There appears to be some fuel seepage from the petcocks, so attention is needed in that area soon. Perhaps just some tightening. Tires are pretty worn, but I have two new Avon tires that I will include in the sale of the bike. They were provided to me when I purchased it, and I never got around to mounting them. A small piece of one of the left cylinder head cooling fins is snapped off. It is not readily noticeable, but I purchased a spare used cylinder head with the intention of cutting off a replacement piece and having a shop weld it in place. I never got around to it. I will include the spare cylinder head in the sale of the bike. Seat pan, foam and cover were replaced by me. Pan is a replica part that is a very good reproduction (read: expensive!) and I believe it is fiberglass. Shocks are very desirable (and expensive!) IKON units, with oversized aluminum covers that match OEM appearance. This gives bike stock look with much-better-than-stock feel and adjustment. Bike includes complete BMW tool kit, tool tray, BMW shop rag, BMW tire pump. Also included is the under-seat tire pressure decal which I never got around to installing. I also have an extra subframe with side cover tabs, if you ever wanted to go for the "toaster tank" outfit. I also have a stainless bolt/fastener kit for the bike which -- again -- I never got around to installing. All electrical components work properly, including instrument lights, switches, horn, turn signals, tail light, brake light. Frame and engine numbers match, and correspond to a date of manufacture sometime in June of 1971. My clean California title states year as 1972; perhaps this is related to the bike being sold in Europe before being subsequently imported to the US. Aluminum plate on steering head does not match, but is in sequence (Frame and engine are both numbered 2981540, and ID plate is numbered 2981539). Because they are in direct sequence, it seems to me that the bike left the factory this way. My research indicated that the plate has no legal significance; the number stamped on the frame is what is titled. And again, frame and engine numbers DO match each other and the clear California title. If the steering ID plate being off by one number is an issue for you, BMWhucky.com sells replacement steering head plates for $17. Steering lock, seat lock and gas cap are all operated by the same key, which I have. Steering lock is a bit stiff, but works. I have two streamlined black plastic keys for the ignition switch. Tank emblems are in excellent condition. This is a wonderful motorcycle that turns heads wherever I ride it. You cannot park this at your local coffee shop without people striking up a conversation with you. I have done my best to give an honest description of its condition. Please bear in mind that it is forty-two years old. I am located in North Orange County, California. If you would like to take a look in person, feel free to contact me. I reserve right to sell bike locally. If you want to take a test ride, please have a valid motorcycle license, long pants, and your own helmet! Buyer to arrange for shipping. I will make reasonable accommodations for your shipper. Payment is by cashiers check on US-based bank, or cash in person. Payment must be received within 7 days of auction close. I will not release bike to shipping company until funds have cleared my bank. Please do not send someone to my house with a cashiers check drafted on an Eastern European bank and expect me to release the motorcycle. I utilize common sense, so scammers needn't waste their time here. I do not need assistance selling the motorcycle; commercial brokers: please do not contact me. On Jun-21-13 at 10:39:11 PDT, seller added the following information: REVISION: Steering lock and seat lock use the same key. Gas cap lock uses its own key. I have both keys. Sorry for the misinformation.