1986 Ford Mustang

SVO

4 cylinder turbo

1FABP28TXGF106189

Clear

You are looking at one of the nicest SVOs on the planet. This 1986 black SVO has 13,111 ORIGINAL MILES on it and is 100% stock. This car was originally purchased from Focaro Ford in Staten Island on November 30, 1985 by the original owner who lived in New Jersey (and then moved to Delaware) and who always stored the car inside, never drove it in rain or snow and only drove it 13,018 miles up until I purchased the car. My plan with the car was to make this already stunning original 13K mile black SVO into a museum piece by getting a show-quality paint job on it (which I recently did), enter it in car shows and occasionally drive it in the summer. I have only driven the car 97 miles. Anyone who knows anything about these cars knows that the original paint on these cars (and on all Fords at the time) was quite poor. Because I wanted a show-quality car, I recently had a custom paint and restoration shop do a top of the line and show-quality paint job on the car, which cost me $6,5000 and which was just done within the last month. Again, this was a show-quality paint job which included taking off all the bumpers, trim, original paint, etc, and then placing several coats of primer, clear coat and paint and wet sanding it. Door jams and all parts of the trunk were painted. The only part of the car that was not painted was the engine compartment. As you can see in the pictures, the paint looks like a mirror, with zero orange peel. To point out how stunning the paint job is, not only can you see the reflection of the brick building in the paint, but you can see the reflection of a thin white cloud of exhaust from a plane that just flew by when I took the picture of the hood (see pictures of the hood, pictures #3 and #4). Every inch of the outside of the car, including all trim on the car, all bumpers and lights are perfect. The outside of the car is show-quality, better than factory new. The upper and lower spoilers are perfect and there is zero sag in the upper spoiler. This goes without saying, but I will say it anyway: The car has zero rust. The inside is in excellent condition. There are absolutely no rips in the leather and the dash is perfect. There are two minor issues with the interior. First, there is a small crack in the plastic on the passenger side where the seatbelt goes into the compartment (see picture) and I have a replacement shift boot that is in good, but not excellent condition. I have the original shift boot, which is in excellent condition, but the plastic washer which attaches the boot to the shift knob is missing so I had a replacement boot put in. The replacement boot is a stock SVO shift boot. The car runs excellent, just as you would expect a 13,000 miles car to run. It blows ice-cold air and everything other than the light on the visor mirror works as it should. When I purchased the car it had the original Goodyear Gatorback tires on it but because there was some dry rot on the tires, I purchased new tires. The new tires only have 97 miles on them, which again is the total miles I have driven the car. As you can see in the pictures, the car is heavily documented. I have the original bill of sale, the original manual, original warrantee card, original Odometer Reading Statement showing the car with 9 miles on it when it was purchased new, the original keys and key chain from Focaro Ford, and copy of Certificate of Origin for the vehicle from Ford. So, why am I selling this museum piece, especially when I just paid $6,500 to get a show-quality paint job? Because, unfortunately, I have just received unexpected news regarding family issues and I need the money. While I am willing to sell the car for less than what it’s worth because of my circumstances, I will not give it away and if I have to, I can wait a few months to sell it. Buyer is responsible for shipping car. Immediate deposit of $500 via paypal is required and balance must be paid within seven days via cash or cashier checks. All sales are final and there are no warranties, express or implied. Only serious bidders please. Also, if you win the bid, you have purchased the car and it is a binding contract. Sorry to state the obvious, but I have recently heard of stories of people winning bids on ebay for cars and believing that they can then decide to back out of the deal later if they decide they really don’t want the car. Thanks for looking and good luck! On Dec-22-12 at 19:06:34 PST, seller added the following information: I forgot to mention in the details section that when turning on the car when it is cold, the car revs a little high, between 1500 and 2000, but then drops down to normal revs after car warms up. From all my research, this is normal with these cars. On Dec-25-12 at 06:00:20 PST, seller added the following information: First, Merry Christmas to all those who celebrate Christmas! Just a quick note. I start the car once a week and let it run for a bit because that is what is recommended when you are not driving a car in the winter months. I noticed this morning that the car is still running just a little high in the revs (never over 2000 and mostly between 1000 and 1700) and the car kept at that level after 5 minutes of running. I am almost certain that this is not an issue at all. But because I am not a mechanic and because I'm not going to drive the car on the streets of Chicago in the winter months due to snow, rain and salt on the roads to have a Ford dealership look at this issue, I will take $500 off the winning bid so the winner can have it looked at. But obviously, the winner is responsible for any cost over $500 and can keep the $500 if it is less or if it's not an issue at all. Again, I'm sure it is nothing. The other thing is I have been forced to cancel some bids because the bidders have negative history of not paying on winning bids. So, please do not bid on the car if you have any negative bid history. Thanks and good luck. On Dec-27-12 at 09:38:07 PST, seller added the following information: I have received emails from people who know SVOs regarding the high idle and all of them indicated that this is a minor issue and easy and cheap to fix and all that is needed is a new IAC (Idle Air Control). Here is one of the emails I have received: "Just to let you know the high idle condition is because of a malfunctioning IAC(Idle Air Control) motor. This IAC motor is located on the rear of the throttle body and is approx $50-$75 and can be replaced in 5 minutes." As I have indicated before, I am not a mechanic, but this is the information I have received. Since I have offered to take $500 off the price of the winning bid, I will stand by my word even though it appears that the fix is simple. Just wanted to pass this info on.