1969 Triumph Other

Coupe

6 cylinder

Manual

KC77122L

Clear

Gasoline

Normal 0 false false false EN-US X-NONE X-NONE MicrosoftInternetExplorer4 1969 Triumph GT6+ Up for sale is my beautiful Wedgewood blue 1969 Triumph GT6+ that has just undergone a fresh 7 month cosmetic and mechanical restoration. BACKGROUND I purchased the car this past January 2012 intending to make it a daily driver/track car for the summer. Before I agreed to pay top dollar for an excellent driver I commissioned an independent shop in Canada to do a proper PPI before it was transported to me in San Diego. I was told it was of sound mechanical and cosmetic shape and it was "one of the best" examples of a Triumph in that area. Sadly this was not true. The surface rust beauty needed tons of patchwork, Rotoflex donuts were completely sheared in half, cracks in the paint were years of paint and body filler delaminating from the metal, carbs puked out fuel, prop rod broken in two pieces, shocks blown and springs cut, and none of the electrical worked (lights, gauges, wipers, etc.). Thankfully the only thing that was true of the car was that it started and putted about (after I did my own compression and leakdown test). Now I was at a place where I didnt want to be. I restore cars all day, the last thing I wanted to do was start my own restoration but I was left with no choice. Every time I removed a bolt it was frozen, if I removed one accessory the underlying component was broken as well... So thats what I did, I put my head down and spent the last 7 months restoring this car to the glory you see now. RESTORATION Im going to try and list all the work ive completed although im sure I will leave stuff out!! All parts were purchased from major distributors, I.E; vickybrits, spitbits, canleyclassics, and a majority of the parts from rimmerbros. Electrical: All gauges were pulled out, tested and cleaned. The speedometer was a loaner so the actual mileage is unknown. It was apparent from the start why none of the electrical components worked as every wire was cut and spliced, terminals were dirty or improperly grounded. The entire wire harness was pulled apart and cleaned and all terminals were either weatherpak and/or shrink tubed. You can actually follow the wiring diagram in the manual and know what you're looking at now. All gauges and interior dash warning lights received brand new bulbs. Speedometer also has a new cable as the original was inoperable. All tail lights and signals received brand new bulbs. Brand new Hella eurocode headlamps and (bigger) wire harness so you can actually see at night. Brand new interior dome and light switches Inside fan switch completely disassembled and greased (works in all positions) Wiper motor completely disassembled and cleaned Brand new Bosch alternator 55amp unit. Reconditioned starter Brand new Pertronix electronic ignition with fireball coil Brand new Bosch wires and platinum plugs Ignition was relocated and a kill switch was added to the vehicle for extra security (see in pics) MOTOR This was the best of the lot although it did leak in the normal areas. All the accessories; fuel pump, exhaust mani/carbs, plugs, mounts, etc. were stripped so that the engine could be cleaned properly and I could see what I was dealing with. Engine was painted with proper high temp engine paint. Brand new motor mounts Brand new mechanical fuel pump, all new rubber hoses, and 2 brand new fuel filters (1 before the pump and the other before the carbs) Fuel tank outer was blasted and painted, inside was acid cleaned and coated Carburetors completely torn down, cleaned, and reassembled with new gaskets and diaphragm. Custom heat shield Brand new timing gasket, oil seal replaced, and chain tensioner Brand new valve cover gaskets, manifold gaskets, exhaust, gaskets, carb gaskets, etc... Valves adjusted Brand new remote oil filter housing with 13 row oil cooler and MOCAL thermostat. Return line encased in a high temp reflective sleeve to keep oil temp cooled in the hot engine bay Not that I need it but I kept the smog equipment canister, brand new diaphragm- PCV valve gaskets and lines all the way to the fuel tank. No more breathing fuel vapors!! COOLING Stock radiator reconditioned with high performance quad core. All new radiator hoses...all of them. Brand new water pump, cast iron housing blasted and painted with high temp paint, all new gaskets upon reassembly Brand new thermostat/gaskets Exhaust mani blasted and painted in high temp paint, Brand new banjo bolt (original froze and drilled out) Hot/cold valve taken apart and cleaned, lubed upon reassembly STOP AND GO All suspension components are new. I really tried to skimp in this area but I couldn't afford to (peace of mind) First to go was the primitive rotoflex joints. A great design by all means but with the lack of aftermarket doughnut options I decided to replace it with Canley Classics proven CV conversion kit. FRONT Uprated front spring 262lb rate, 1 inch lowerBrand new GAZ performance shock absorbers HEIGHT/RIDE ADJUSTABLE, new bushings and hardware Brand new alloy steering rack clamp set Brand new polyurethane bushing kit for wishbones/a-arms Brand new wheel bearings Brand new rotors Brake calipers/hubs blasted, painted, and rebuilt Brand new brake hoses Rebuilt brake master cylinder Brand new clutch master clyinder and slave cylinder REAR Modified rear spring lowered and more stiff, can easily return to stock assembly and also have Canley classics aluminum lowering block if you want to run that setup Brand new Gaz GT performance shock absorbers RIDE ADJUSTABLE, new bushings and hardware Brand new brake hoses Wheel bearings repacked, drums, pads, springs, wheel cylinders were recently replaced thus no work was done. However I purchased all new parts for the above mentioned so it comes as a spare set COSMETICS This was the hardest part of the restoration. More than 250 hours went into the body as far as stripping, panel replacement and strengthening, body work, paint, and final assembly. Excessive rust areas were cut out and patched (welded) properly. The rear shock tower mounts were completey gutted inside and out and replaced as well. Shallow panels were hammered and dolly out so a minimal amount of filler and primer would be applied. As stated the car is painted in an original Wedgewood blue color from PPG, and 7 coats of clear were put on top. This process is done so it can be "stick sanded" with 800,1000,1500,2500, and 3000 grit sandpaper then finally polished to give the car that mirror finish without the orange peel. See pictures!!! I was going for the clean look so I removed and welded up (no cheap fiberglass patch jobs) all sidemarker and bumper holes. If you wish to run them all you need to do is drill new holes and hook up the wiring. Bumper attachments in the rear are still there just without the hole. Dashboard was originally covered in a cheap "carbon fiber sticker" than destroyed the laminate so I make aluminum panels, scotchbrite finished them then clear coated. The entire floorboard was cleaned and undercoated top and bottom. The ENTIRE interior floor was then lined with fatmat/dynamat. Cardboard trans tunnel replace with brand new Polyurethane tunnel with new gaskets and boot. Brand new Deluxe carpet kit in black as well as brand new carpet for the rear tray. Brand new floor mats as well. Stock seats replaced with 2010 miata seatsBrand new door locks and keys driver/pass, brand new rear hatch lock with keys Brand new wipers, side view mirrors, custom visors, glass reverse lights, brand new license lamp Brand new VTO 15 inch wheels with Brand new rubber (less than 3 miles on them) Exhaust manifold ceramic coated and hooked up to a brand new dual stainless steel exhaust Brand new weather gaskets all the way around, windshield frame was taken out, blasted and painted. New top and bottom weather seals, new seals for front and rear windshield, new 1/4 window seals, door seals, hatch seal, etc...EXTRA I have a ton of original parts that come with the car so if you plan to ship this vehicle you must make provisions to transport these items. There are 2 totes full of extra parts ( Brand new rear drums and pads, wheel bearings and cylinders, springs) I used high quality TRIMLOK weather seals for the doors and 1/1 windows but I also purchased brand new orig. type furlex seals that come with the car. Also have stock alternator, extra spark plug wires, original coolant expansion tank, GT6+ specific reverse/license lamp, original rotoflex joints Have stock seats with headrest that need to be reupholstered Stock bumpers that can be polished or rechrome 4 stock steel wheels with spare, stock wheels have hubcaps and tires with 95% tread left and more.... There are a few touchups I have to correct, there is a small crack on the dashboard cover, and on one 1/4 window im trying to source a new vent pin although it still opens and closes without it While the auction is going on I still have many things to finish. Need to adjust gaps, the new weatherstripping is unforgiving even in this heat, I probably have to soak them in hot water for them to soften. Need to finalize and tune the carburetors Need to align the car, currently the front is raised all the way up and a few other odds and ends LAST (Its like Lord of The Rings 3 you think its over but it keeps on going!!!!!) This is a lot to read but there is more, I always get the same questions so ill try to answer them here first! Why am I selling after putting in this much work? Simple. Im 1 step away from obtaining my Navy SpecOPS contract, if you dont know what that is then I cant tell you. All I need to do is a financial background so im trying to be in "better" standing. When I play I PAY for my stuff and dont default on the government like some others do. Im not irresponsible with my money and so I would like to pay off any bills I have before I leave. Who knew being married and owning property are negative marks?? What I would pay to be 18 with nothing to my name!! With that being said what is my reserve? I paid top dollar for this car, $8500 for PPI, shipped and insured to my location. And if my calculations are correct I have close to $6,000 just in paint materials and parts. Do the math this is what I want. I dont care about the work I put into it because I enjoy what I do. Maybe this will hurt my sale but from experience most people dont bid anymore anyway they just flood my inbox with questions about "how low ill sell it for." No trades! Had enough? Then happy bidding!! This car is being sold as is WITHOUT any warranty either expressed or implied. It is up to the buyer of the vehicle to transport the vehicle. I have the right to end this auction anytime before its scheduled listed end time for any reason. Please feel free to contact me with any questions. I prefer you leave a call back number as I am not a robot and if we cant make a deal in person I would at least like to speak with the person I am selling too. 2 forms of payment are accepted and are required in full: CASH in person or WIRE TRANSFER from your bank to mine. This is the easiest and most secure way. I bank with Wells Fargo and they do all the background checks for me. Ive been scammed before and I dont enjoy it so sorry nothing else.