1988 BMW 3-Series

325iS Coupe

S54b32. 3.2L I6 DOHC naturally aspirated.

Manual

WBAAA1300J8253810

Clear

Gasoline

I thought I would never sell my favorite car ever, but I got an itch for another project so my 1988 325iS with an S54 has to go. I built this car myself with the help of a friend (an engineer). Everything was done correctly as possible to give the car an OEM look and feel. I have put 4500 miles on the car since the swap. It starts immediately and runs silky smooth. It is very fast. Here are the details (Current mileages shown): • S54b32 from a 2002 M3 – 44k miles. (bearings replaced and valves adjusted by previous owner) • OEM ECU with flash in Germany to disable DSC (dynamic stability control), CAN bus, EWS, and rear O2 sensors. • ZF 5 speed from a 95 M3 – approx. 64k miles. (new clutch wear items, and metal pivot pin) • Flywheel and clutch from an 01 Z3M Roadster – 15k miles. • E36 318i/325i clutch slave cylinder with dedicated reservoir • UUC stainless steel clutch line for E36 318i/325i • E60 550i short shifter • ZHP shift knob • E34 525i oil pan • Euro S50b30 oil pump • E36 325i steering rack with rebuilt linkages & new flex disc ( Normal 0 false false false MicrosoftInternetExplorer4 I like the ratio of this rack because it's quicker than the E30 rack but not as touchy as the M3 rack) • E36 tie rod assemblies (Lemförder) • M3/M5 guibo (OEM) • E46 M3 radiator and cooling & heater hoses • E46 M3 starter • E46 M3 Valeo 120 amp alternator • E46 M3 power steering pump • SPAL 16” push fan (curved blade design with larger motor and quieter operation) • E30 oil cooler with an -10 adapters, Turner Motorsport S54 oil filter housing an adapter fittings, Areoquip Startlite Racing hose and fittings. • E36 328i manual driveshaft with new E30 CSB • 3.25 LSD • UUC E36 M3 red transmission mounts with enforcer cups • Green E28 M5 heavy duty motor mounts • Deatschwerks 300LPH fuel pump • E46 M3 fuel pressure regulator & filter • E23 733i Hydro boost brake system (previous owner said master cylinder was rebuilt. no leaks. ABS system has been retained. Stops awesome). • Stainless steel brake lines • E46 M3 drive-by-wire gas pedal • E46 M3 K&N Typhoon air intake • E30 M3/318i wiring harness cover • Custom front sway-bar (very thick) • Treehouse Racing lollipop control arm bushings • Exhaust: stainless headers, twin 2.5” tubing to 2 AP Exhaust OBDII cats, backed by a OEM Euro E36 M3 muffler • H&R Sport springs • Bilstein Sport shocks • Heavy duty rear shock mounts • Rear strut tower brace • Set of 5 Euroweaves with Continental 205/55/15 tires (all excellent shape, esp. spare. Lots of tread left on tires, maybe 70-80%) • Full set of trunk tools and also jack, lug wrench, choke, and hub cap wrench • New large capacity battery in trunk, properly vented • DDM 4500k HID’s. 55 watt in low beams. 35 watt in high beams. • Alpine stereo with multi-illumination (matches BMW orange perfect) • Viper alarm with keyless entry • Rearview mirror with map lights The car weighs only about 50 lbs more than it did before the swap. It’s about 2850 lbs, which is over 500 lbs less than a stock E46 M3 coupe. It was dyno’d at 281 whp. Maintenance items such as the serpentine belt, spark plugs (NGK DCPR8EKP), O2 sensors, mass air flow sensor, and ignition coils were replaced. New nuts and bolts were used when specified by TIS and torqued to proper specifications. All the wiring is soldered rather than crimped. I put an OBDII connector under the dash on the driver’s side, and I re-used rear window defroster switches for the electric fan and Sport mode (with temporary labels). I’ve kept all the receipts. Here is a link to my original build thread:http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=237727 Fluids & chems: Engine oil: Castrol TWS 10W-60 Trans oil: Pentosin MTF2 Diff oil: Amsoil Severe Gear 75W-110 Power steering & Hydro boost fluid: Amsoil Multi-vehicle ATF Brake Fluid: ATE Super Blue Racing Clutch parts and input spline grease: Esso Unirex S2 Additional info about the chassis: I believe the car was originally purchased in Seattle, Washington and has spent it’s entire life in the Pacific Northwest. I purchased the car from the owner of an independent BMW repair shop in Bellingham, Washington in 2007 and it was entirely stock. The chassis now has 286,000 miles on it, but is in fantastic condition. Paint is shiny. I haven’t noticed any areas of rust. No accidents as far as I am aware, though it has had some paint work. The driver’s side rear quarter panel is slightly faded, as is the roof, but the paint is still in very good condition. I wash and wax it regularly. There are a few small dings here and there that I have took pictures of for you. There are also some rock chips on the front end that are mostly on the lower valence. The following have been recently replaced: front wheel bearings, control arms (Lemförder), brake pads, and rotors (Brembo). The interior is very nice. No dash cracks. The leather seats are nice. I condition the leather with Lexol regularly. Relatively new OEM floor mats from the dealer. Everything works. No check control panel lights are on -> all sensors properly wired. Back-up lights work. The title is clean. The registration is current. Additional disclosures: There is no A/C. I removed the condenser so there wouldn’t be anything between the electric push fan and the radiator for maximum cooling. There is no A/C compressor installed on the engine and I removed the A/C lines in the engine compartment. You could install all that if you wanted, but it would add weight. There is no cruise control. Theoretically cruise control will function as it is controlled by the ECU. I can provide wiring instructions and give you a switch for the steering column if you desire, but I cannot guarantee it will work. The tuner who flashed the ECU said cruise control function was not disabled but it might be a dependent of DSC, which has been disabled. If you can’t get it to work I suppose you could have someone dig into the ECU and figure it out. On very hard acceleration there is a dip in the power curve in the very low rpm range we discovered from the dyno graph. It is due to the high current DC throttle motor not getting quite enough juice that it wants. I had to extend the 2 wires to the throttle motor so that they would reach the ECU in the car because the ECU in the E46 is in a different location than it is in the E30 (opposite sides of the car). I have been planning on re-soldering the 2 connections I made with a higher wattage soldering iron or simply replace the harness with the Z3 M version which is suppose to reach inside the E30 cockpit much better. Those wires are the thickest on the harness besides the alternator to starter cable and the wires I used to extend them were the exact same wires which I cut from another E46 M3 harness I had. The Z3 M version is part # 12517831637. It’s $379 from bmwmercedesparts.com. There is also a very slight drivetrain vibration I have not isolated that occasionally occurs after you have pushed the gas pedal hard and then let off. It immediately goes away after the gas pedal has been depressed again. I haven’t considered either of these issues a problem as they don’t seem to affect drivability and I’ve been very busy lately, so I haven’t tried to correct them. Also, occasionally there is a very slight rattle from the exhaust when the car is idling due to the catalytic converters coming into contact with the heat shield below the drive shaft that has been caused by the exhaust being pushed up slightly from speed bumps near our house. It hasn’t bothered me so I haven’t tried to correct it. Unrelated to the swap, occasionally the driver’s window will not roll up or down with the door closed, which is probably due to a kinked wire in the door jamb. There has never been a time when I couldn’t roll it up or down with door opened slightly so the issue hasn’t bothered me enough to try to fix it. The On Board Computer needs a new outside temperature sensor, which I have and will provide you, but I have not installed it because it’s not something I care about. The OBC lights up bright. The bulbs were replaced with LED’s. They should last a long time. I also have a couple spray cans of Zinno paint I had mixed up I can give you that you can use to touch up any rock chips or paint anything else. With the sale of the car I will include all of my swap data and wiring information. I will also offer free technical support to subsequent owners. I will cooperate with any shipper, which you will have to arrange (uship.com for example) and I can also pick you up at the PDX airport if you plan on flying in and driving the car home. International bidders are welcome. I will fill out any needed customs forms, but I’m not sure what will be required for your country so I suggest you use an importing service or hire someone to help you with that. I will accept cash or a wire transfer. I will also cooperate with your bank or loan provider if you plan on financing. An initial deposit of $500 will be required via PayPal within 48 hours unless you make the full payment within that time frame. I will be keeping the license plates, unless you are an Oregon buyer and you persuade me to give them to you. I'll be happy to provide you with a trip permit from DMV if you need one to drive the car home. Serious buyers are welcome to view the car before bidding. Please contact me to arrange a viewing.