1967 Ford Mustang

Convertible

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Clear

Gasoline

1967 Ford Mustang convertible ready for restoration. No, you can't drive it, I sold the drivetrain last year. It was a 6 cylinder, but I planned on updating it to a GT350 clone with a V8 and TKO600. The interior is complete and in good shape. I can't say the same about the exterior and the top. I sold the hood and wheels in the pictures (along with the previously mentioned drivetrain). It will need floors and several patch panels. The trunk is not bad and I'm sure there are other rusty places in addition to the floors, but it is a solid restoration candidate which is what I originally planned. I'm including the Stang-Aholics complete 1967 Shelby fiberglass kit listed on their website for $1910.00 (http://www.stang-aholics.com/SubCategory/Fiberglass/1967%20Fiberglass%20Kits,%20Shelby.aspx), however, mine DOES include the correct tail light panel with the molded in Cougar light buckets making the fiberglass alone worth over $2200. Stang-Aholics fiberglass is the best I've ever used. Each piece that mounts to the original steel is flanged for a nice joint, the hood has steel at the hinges and latch bonded in, and all the bolt on pieces have either studs or nuts bonded in. I'll also include a bolt in, refurbished pedal set with a clutch pedal if you want it. I need to sell this project as I have too many others and now that I am retired I am loosing steam. This vehicle is sold as is, where is and you will need to come and get it or send your trailer or flat bed. I'm listing it at no reserve, so don't blink!On Apr-18-12 at 07:38:59 PDT, seller added the following information:I have a clean title. It is from North Carolina and the vin is 7F03T169279.On Apr-21-12 at 11:04:29 PDT, seller added the following information:Sorry for the delay in answering all your questions, I've been away. I took some more pictures and they should be posted shortly. For those of you who perhaps didn't read my answer to the question, this vehicle needs a total restoration. Own a mig welder and know how to use it! Here are some examples: 1. The inner fender liner where the battery mounts has rust holes (very typical) and the rust holes extend into the radiator core support frame (not the radiator core, just the beam under it). This is a very easy fix that I have done many times in about 2 hours for less than $150. Drill the spot welds all the way through, clamp replacement steel, and use the holes you drilled to plug weld the new steel in place. 2. The trunk drop off extensions on both sides have rust holes, but the trunk looks fine. There are patch panels for the drop offs that can be welded in (1 hour each for less than $100 total). 3. I took a door panel off and peered inside. It looks fine (has a bunch of leaves and pine needles). I assume the passenger side is the same. 4. I don't think the quarters need replacement, but they may need patching as may the inner and out wheel wells. I ran a magnet over them and there is steel everywhere, but it could be thin. Assume the car should be stripped, fixed, and repainted. Please read that last sentence again! BTW, I have a 1966 fastback that I completely restored that was in worse shape than this car. It now does not have a speck of rust and only needs paint to finish. When you come pick up the convertible, you can compare the two if that's helpful. For those of you that are let's say conceptually challenged, I bolted the hood and front valance onto the car for transportation, but it gives you an idea of how the fiberglass fits. Once the new pictures come up, notice that I only used the bottom two bolts on each side with no trimming, shapping, or grinding. This stuff fits really well! Bottom line: You will need to spend $600 or $700 on sheet metal, put a LOT of your sweat into it, and repaint. Now you have a perfect body to assemble a killer street machine like my 1966 fastback or Cobra that will bring big profit if/when you sell it. If you pay someone else to do the body repair...well...just don't!