1972 Plymouth Satellite

-

8 - Cyl.

Automatic

Gasoline

The motor is a brand new 360 with a brand new supercharger. The motor and supercharger were $7500 total. Plus carb, high flow electric fan, huge aluminum radiator, march brackets, chrome alt and starter. The car has very nice cadillac cts black leather seats (power), with 3 point seat belts built into them, new gauges, basically a whole new interior (headliner, dome light, seats, dash pad, road runner emblem, etc..) . Rear seats are recovered. New go wing. Car has rust in quarters and doors, but has a Fair paint job and looks surprsingly good. The car has a racing switch panel installed into custom console with ignition, starter, fan, reverse lights, heater hooked into it. All lights, turn signals, brake lights work perfectly. New everything on back end (brake light covers, bulbs, etc). The car has all new roadrunner decals and go wing, but note that previous owner put a bunch of performance badges on front fenderwells. Trunk looks good upon first inspection, but closer inspection will reveal a small rust through hole. Most of the trunk appear rock solid, though. Floor pans are good and appear to be original. Speedometer not hooked up. All aftermarket gauges shown are functioning perfectly. The computer says the motor should do around 585 hp with 565 ft lbs of torque. Specs from professional motor builder are below. I had a choke put on the carb so it would start in the winter easily. The carb is a Holley 850 (vacuum secondaries not hooked up). Car sounds awesome, and with no mufflers and will rattle dishes in the kitchen over 100 feet away. New retro cherry bombs currently on car. Pretty Much everything under the hood, and on the Interior are brand new, New Tires on Front, New Shocks with Air Adjustment on Rear for Ride adjustment. I purchased this car approx 6 months ago and have only had time to drive once on the road. The car has the making of an awesome driver and muscle car without having tens of thousands of dollars invested. The only thing the car currently needs is a narrower set of rear wheels and some tuning and setup of the motor. The rear wheels (that where put on by the previous owner) are way to wide and rud the rear arches really bad requiring the rear suspension pumped up all the time which I feel really spoils/distorts the stance of the car. The wheels and tires on the front are brand new and with a better width on the rear the car could really have a fantastic look and stance. I was going to loook for some with a similar look to the fronts etc but just haven't had time. The car starts and runs at the push of a button and just needs some fine tuning. This is a great car/project for someone with just a little time to make a great driver. Here are all of the Specs/Notes from the engine builder: 1972 chrysler 360 long block hot tanked, tumble cleaned, magnafluxed then fully re-machined 0.40 over, surface decked 0.10, main cap line bore honed, new cam bearings installed, upper head studs installed, 3.58 stroke oem cast crankshaft hot tanked, magafluxed, polished as needed (std rods& std mains) new king rod bearings and sealed power main bearings installed as needed. Connecting rods are oem 360 rods cleaned,magnafluxed then rebuilt/resized as needed. Pistons are new federal mogul/sealed power 0.40 over flat top hypereutectic coated skirt 8.5 to 1 compression pistons installed with new speed pro 5/16/5/16/3/16 chrome moly rings. Engines crank,rods,pistons,rings,bearings,balancer,flexplate were the fully computer spun balanced as needed within 1/2 of a gram. oiling system consists of a new meling m72 oil pump, pick up tube and new chrome 5 qt oil pan. Cam selected is a comp cams dual energy series cam with the following specs: 275/284 duration 462/482 lift on a 110 lobe center installed at 106* Lifters are federal mogul ht-2011 performance lifters. Timing chain is a comp cams hi performance street chain installed at 0 deg.(straight up) Heads are big port 360 hi po castings rebuilt as follows: heads were hot tanked, magnafluxed,tumble cleaned,resurfaced 0.12 (thou) new valve guides installed,new valve springs, new stainless 2.02/1.60 valves installed, heads were then assembled and pressure checked as needed. Valvetrain consists of the following: oem recon non-adjustable rockers/shafts/holdowns/bolts/pushrods were hot tanked,inspected, installed as needed. Valve covers are oem painted. Timing cover is a oem recon that was sand blasted, inspected, primed,painted with a new crankshaft seal installed. Water pump is a new hi vol 8 vane pump that was installed and paint matched. Balancer is a new external balanced 360/5.9 unit that was installed and painted to match as needed. Fuel pump is a new carter hi performance 80 gph street pump installed. oem dip stick and tube was removed,cleaned,repainted and installed as needed. Flex plate installed is a new B&M external balanced unit with new bolts. Blower system: New B&M 144 cid mini supercharger installed on motor, blower intake manifold and necessary belt tensioner,bolts,belt etc... Ignition system: New mallory comp 9000 unilite breakerless distributor, new msd ignition wires, new ngk performance spark plugs installed. Fuel system: New carter hi po 80 gph performance street fuel pump, reman holley 850 cfm vacuum secondary street/race carb set up for blower aplication/specs. Performance specs and approx settings etc.. Ignition timing was pre-set at approx 15 deg idle timing and 30 deg total timing (total was set/determined when engines rpm was at 3000 rpm) Engines idle rpm will need to be around 750 to 850 rpm or higher pending on your converter stall speed/slip. Carb jetts are 76 in front and 84 in rear, 6.5 inch power valve, size 33 fuel shooter. Recommendations: as large as possible aluminum twin row radiator and 2300 cfm electric fans for air flow. Make sure you use a factory/mopar pcv valve with the proper fitting rubber grommet on one valve cover and a open element performance mushroom style breather cap on the other valve cover. As far as fuel pressure is concerned, buy a permanent mounted fuel pressure guage (the best kind to get is a autometer liquid filled fuel guage that mounts outside the vehicle and mounts on the cowl slots) after installing the guage, monitor the fuel pressure at idle, if it is 6 psi fine, if it is higher than that up to 7 .5 psi that ok as well, the trick is to make sure the fuel pressure when you are really running it hard over 4000 to 5000 rpm does not drop more then a half a point from the idle pressure amount. (P.S: remember... shift point is at 5000 to 5200 rpm max.... make sure you have a good working tach.) Call or email for more details or pictures 205 218-6380. On Nov-04-11 at 21:34:21 PDT, seller added the following information: SAVE MONEYON SHIPPING! uShip is the first and largest auction stylemarketplace for shipping and transportationservices. 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