1997 Subaru Outback

Hatchback

4 - Cyl.

Automatic

4s3bg685xv7650539

Gasoline

1997 Subaru Outback Wagon 209K Miles, Good Body Needs Work Please scroll down for pics & details Description Basic Information Make: Subaru Model: Legacy Outback Year: 1997 VIN: 4S3BG685XV7650539 Inspection Due: 8/1/2010 Color: Forest Green Engine: 2.5 L Four Cylinder Transmission: Automatic Interior Color: Grey Title: Reconstructed- This Subaru vehicle has a Reconstructed Title. Details Engine: Power Steering fluid leak at the PS Pump Gasket. Uses 1 pint/ month. No thermostat, cooling system flushed. Warped Cylinder Head (s) Engine overheated due to failed thermostat. While still hot, a noticeable loss of power and compression was observed when driving uphill. Plugs pulled, came back dry with no gasoline odor and were replaced with new. Existing wires were used. Thermostat removed and discarded, cooling system flushed with water. When cold, the vehicle was restarted and driven for 5 to 10 miles, until again a drop in power was noticed. The temperature remained Normal. I have not pressure tested the engine, I don't have the tool. There is a noticeable smoke and smell of burning oil and coolant from under the hood after the vehicle has been driven for 5-10 miles. Basically, the Head is probably slightly warped. The car will still pull itself uphill with full compression and power, provided you don't floor it. The 2.5 Liter Subaru engines put in the Outback and other vehicles are known to warp heads when overheated, a condition Subaru won't admit to, but is aware of and probably has a TSB for. There is an aftermarket repair kit to replace the gaskets after the head is machined. Shop time is probably 15 hours to do the whole job. I can't do it because (frankly) it's too complicated for me, and I don't have the tools. In my opinion, the car is still useful for very short commutes or trips to the grocery store, even in it's current condition. I've been using it for almost two weeks this way with little problems. I wouldn't trust it to drive for more than maybe 50 miles without some kind of issue. Bring water, oil, coolant and a friend if driving it home. I've got another car lined up, so this one is doomed to the junkyard next Wednesday.... If you don't buy it on Sunday when the auction ends, that is. It's my car's last grasp at life... Please don't let my poor old crappy car die! Driveline: Rear Differential issue, AWD disabled. I think the Rear Differential probably should be repaired, but I also think it's optional. The AWD failed a year ago or longer, and it's been drivable since; Probably put on 30K miles. Body: Small rust spot, about the size of a half-dollar, Driver's Side Rear fender. Passenger's Front fender wrinkle and small dent. Front Bumper and Fog Lights need replacement: Vehicle was involved in an accident in January 2010 causing damage to the front bumper, grill, radiator mount, front fenders and tires. Bumper remounted with some original hardware and secured with zip ties, all by my mechanic. Connectors for the fog lights are still in place. Overall the paint is in very good condition. Tires/ Brakes/ Suspension: Driver's front tire is a full sized spare on a steel rim. Includes full size spare with aluminum rim (flat). New tires within the last six months, 80%+ tread remains. Passenger rear tire has a big construction staple stuck in the tread and needs to be filled daily. Driver's front also leaks. Both could be plugged. Rear rotors need to be machined or replaced. Needs rear brake pads, the wear indicators are chirping. The front brakes should be OK, I think they were done in January. Interior: Interior shows average wear, no tears or threadbare areas. It's dirty. I didn't vacuum it out. It'll end up in the junkyard if you don't buy it, so why send them a clean junker? If you buy it, I'll vacuum it out and clean it up. I just detailed it a few months ago for my wife, so it's not completely dirty... just a little. My car is old and tired. I'd hate to consign it to the junkyard without at least giving it a chance. It's a little like putting an old pet to sleep. So here it is, You'll may need to do some engine work to it, then again you may get away without it for awhile. Eventually you'll have to do the work, along with some drive line work further down the line, but the body is OK. Fix the engine and drive line and it's a $1800.00 car. As it is, you can have it for $500. Payment and Shipping Info Payment Options PayPal is the preferred method of payment, other payment arrangements can be made. We do not recommend sending cash.. Shipping Options DOMESTIC and INTERNATIONAL- There is no Shipping available on this item. Buyer pickup only. Insurance Information N/A Terms Final Sale is Contingent on your satisfaction after a test drive. The above description is accurate to the best of my knowledge. I am not a mechanic. I worked as a manager in an auto repair facility for five years and made many repairs myself as part of my responsibilities. I saw alot of broken cars. This one is broken, but it can be fixed if you know how. If you have any questions or you'd like to take it for a drive before bidding, drop me a line at mark@numistique.com, and I'll get back to you. I appreciate your time and consideration, and I wish you all the best. Thanks for looking and Good Luck! Powered by eBay Turbo Lister The free listing tool. List your items fast and easy and manage your active items. Powered by eBay Turbo Lister The free listing tool. List your items fast and easy and manage your active items. On Jul-30-10 at 19:11:00 PDT, seller added the following information:Please Note: Vehicle is not for sale outside of the United States. Any bids received from outside of the US will be cancelled. Any bids received from bidders with a "0" feedback rating will also be cancelled. I apologize for the inconvenience.