2001 Ford Mustang

GT / Saleen Coupe

5.1 Liter

Manual

1FAFP42X21F196762

Clear

Gasoline

Please read the entire add before placing any bids. I will do the best to list all add-ons & work done, any areas of concern, deficiencies, damages, etc. If you don’t read the entire listing you won’t know everything done to it or what is needed (depending on what is to be desired by each individual). I will do my best to describe everything in detail to the best of my ability. I’m selling because I really need to downsize….family comes first and I have too many toys and not enough time or space. She usually sits in the garage most of the time, barely driven or enjoyed. ALWAYS GARAGED. Time to go to someone else who will enjoy her and finish her up like I dreamed of doing. What receipts I do have will be included. The car has had tons of work done to it, but is not perfect. It does need some things done, but they are not difficult things to do for anyone who is mechanically inclined. If you’re not, then I recommend you take it somewhere. READ ENTIRE POSTING BEFORE BIDDING PLEASE! Inspections welcome! 2001 Mustang GT / Saleen Clone (Body Kit only) 72,837 original miles. Driven less than 7,500 mi in the last 5 years. Purchased the Car from a family member, he and I started the build together before I took it off his hands as he had hit hard times. He returned the favor and has helped me with what I took on from him. Engine: - Built 5.1 L HCI Stroker Shortblock 2V SOHC. Bored and honed 45 degree cross-hatch pattern. Manley 23cc Dish Pistons. Forged Steel I-Beam Rods, 5.993” Rod Length. Forged Cobra 8 Bolt 3.750” Stroke Crankshaft / Stock stroke 3.543”. Clevitte 77 Bearings. HO Oil Pump and pick up tube. Multi Layer Steel Head Gaskets. Complete rotating assembly has been balanced: Crankshaft, Pistons, Rods, Flywheel, Pressure Plate, and Harmonic Balancer all to 1 gram of another. Sticks of Mallory added to crankshaft for weight. Stock Heads, 3 Angle Valve job – grind Seats & Valves. Have been freshened up and Deep Heat cleaned. - Innovators West Harmonic Damper 15% Overdrive, w/Dual Crankshaft keys & Super Duty Hub option. (Gained 90 hp with this alone.) - Procharger P1SC supercharger @ 15.26 lbs of boost. - 2001 Bullit intake manifold. - Accufab Throttle body. - EGR has been completely deleted. There is absolutely no exhaust being recycled back into the intake. It has all been deleted…no more gunking up your intake and engine with exhaust gases. Vents through a custom breather. - SCT BA2400 90mm Mass Air Flow Sensor. - JLT Cold Air Intake and pipe. - MSD Coil Pack. - NGK TR6 plugs gapped @ .32. - Siemens Deka High Impedance 60lbs Injectors, #107961. Static Flow Rate @ 43.5PSI ( 300kPa ) w/Gas: 60 lb/hr = 630 cc/min = 453 g/min. Static Flow Rate @ 87PSI ( 600kPa ) w/Gas: 85.7 lb/hr = 900 cc/min = 648 g/min. - Aluminum overflow coolant tank. - High flow Blue Anodized fuel rails. - Ford SuperChip. - BBK Chrome Valve Covers. - The compression is 8:5:1. - Last conservative Dyno tune was at; street - 443.46 rwhp & 456.56 rwtq. Race – 464.20 rwhp & 472.62 rwtq. I say “Conservative” because it was about a 50% 100 octane / 50% 91 octane mix for the race tune AND also because the rubber sleeve between the intake and throttle body kept coming off @ the throttle body end due to all the boost/pressure. Tech said he could have squeeze more out of it and bumped up the timing but wanted to wait until I had all 100 octane in the tank to reduce chance of detonation and could address the sleeve slipping off as it was an annoyance. Makes tremendous power for a 2V SOHC. When it was taken to a different shop prior to the last tune and prior to more mods (*smaller blower pulley, innovators west 15% overdrive damper, electric water pump), they dyno’d it around 480 rwhp and 489rwtq on a 91 tune. So I am assuming (RIGHT NOW) the actual rwhp is closer to, if not well over 500 and same for the rwtq. So as any person knows who plays with these kinds of toys, I am going to assume the difference in numbers was due to different technicians, equipment used, heat, humidity level, and wind speed (high speed fan vs big box fan). When you drive her, she feels over 500 rwhp and tq. I can feel the difference between over 500 and high-mid 400’s. She will throw you back in your seat. If you put 100 octane in her only and get her tuned for that, I know she will bring those numbers up. *See below Recently Added in the last 4-6 months: - BGG Performance 8 rib pulley upgrade. Switched the procharger pulley from a 3.20” to a 2.90”. WILL be making a few more lbs of boost now. I can definitely feel the difference with that smaller pulley, the boost comes on @ lower rpm and faster. Does not exceed the max impeller speed. - Innovators West Harmonic Damper 15% Overdrive, w/Dual Crankshaft keys & Super Duty Hub option. Gained 90 hp with this alone. - Meziere Electric Water Pump. Not the $300 regular one, I got the one for supercharged applications, almost $600. - Added a drain line to the P1SC because I hated changing its oil and it dripping on belts and eating them away and or belt slip (ask me how I know). The line works great. - Thump RRR Racing Tensioner. No more belt slip or any of that garbage! Lifetime warranty with Thump RRR Racing! - Custom Breathers…Stainless Braided Lines with AN fittings mounted on each valve cover and both leading to a MOROSO Catch can mounted near the coolant overflow tank. I drilled some extra small holes near the top of the can to ensure there was enough crankcase ventilation. And no, the can does not leak or spray oil anywhere (baffled inside). - Stainless high pressure power steering hose w/AN fittings. Other add ons/mods: - Kenne Bell Boost-a-pump with the control switch mounted on the driver’s side of the center console. - Cobra fuel tank with twin cobra pumps. - Ford racing aluminum drive shaft. - Shift light mounted on the dash between the turn signal blinkers. - Rear fenders have been professionally ‘rolled’ because they used to cut into the tires whenever I would hit a bump at a decent speed. Very clean look. - 3:73 gears. - Moser 8.8 Axles 31 Spline. Suspension: - UPR Caster Camber plates. - Upper and lower Control arms w/weight jackers. - Maximum Motorsports Panhard Bar (axle mount, chassis mount, aluminum rod). - Maximum Motorsports Heavy Duty Torque –Arm 8.8 axle (Torque-arm main tube, crossmember, & hardware kit). - Subframe Connectors. - Drive Shaft safety loop. - UPR Chrome Moly K-member Kit with A-arms. - Bumpsteer Kit. (I want to say they are UPR but I can’t remember). - Adjustable Coil Overs on front and rear. - Maximum Motorsports Front & Rear Sway bars. Brakes: - Front and rear brakes have less than 400 miles on them. - Front = Wilwood Forged Narrow Superlite 6R Big Brake Front Brake Kit with stainless steel flex line kit. 6 Piston & 12.88 rotor (Slotted) diameter!!!….MAJOR Difference and MASSIVE improvement on stopping power and distance. - Rear = Power Stop Street Warrior Brake Kit. Drilled & Slotted Rotors. Big difference from the stock GT brakes. Rims and Tires: - Authentic 18” SALEEN chrome rims wrapped with NITTO 555R drag radials. Front =265/35/18. Rear = 305/40/18. If you drive it around town / freeway, they’ll last probably a few thousand or so, if you drive like you stole it doing burn out and donuts everywhere then yea you’re gonna burn right through them. Nitto 555R were designed for street and strip applications and I have ZERO complaints with them. Only comes with Saleen rims and the Nitto tires mentioned above. Exhaust: - LOUD!!! Not for the faint of heart or those who get annoyed by loud exhaust systems!! - Rear exhaust tips are aesthetic only! Exhaust are turn downs. - BBK H-Pipe. - No Cats!!! Deleted! - BBK Long Tube Headers. - Electric Cut Outs. BAD ASS!! Sounds so Awesome! Freakin Loud and is definitely a head turner as if the car wasn’t loud enough as it is with the cut outs closed. Switch is mounted on the driver’s side of the center console. I would love to open the cut outs whenever I would go through a tunnel, it is a blast! Tranny: - Stock Tremec 3650 5 spd. Serviced only with Royal Purple. - 11” Cobra Clutch. It’s like butter when you press the clutch, very light clutch. Was balanced with the motor when motor was built. Interior: - RCI (Racer’s Choice Inc.) 5 point harness racing seats. Sits a little high, but that can easily be adjusted, just remove some washers that are spacing the mounts. Fits me perfectly though and I’m 5-10. Rear seat is stock. If you are over 6’ you might want to remove some washers to lower the seat. - Pioneer Flip up radio flat screen with remote. DVD/CD and XM ready. No amps or subs. - The Boost-a-pump wire runs out the rear seat and under the driver’s seat. Never bothered to hide it since I don’t carry passengers. Miscellaneous Info: - AC blows cold - I keep the cruise control cable disconnected because I never use it, takes a few seconds to put back on. - Registered through May 2015 in CA. (Registration just expired, I paid the Registration fees for 2016 but have not smogged it yet to comply with CA smog laws). - There will be procharger oil with the vehicle in the trunk. - The key for the rims will be in the center console. - The radio remote will be in the center console (no batteries). - SCT Programmer with 3 stored tunes. Use only the two ones from Nexgen Street or Race (latest tunes), programmer will be in the trunk. - Do not slam the trunk. Doing so repeatedly with cause the spoiler to become loose. I learned the hard way. - I have only use Mobil 1 Full Synthetic 5-30. What oil I have left here will be shipped with the car in the trunk. - Optima Deep Cycle Battery in trunk. - No spare or jack! - HOLD down the AUX button on remote to pop trunk. - Alarm self-arms in 30 sec after all doors are closed. If you are working on it, disconnect the battery or leave the door slightly ajar so it doesn’t arm every 30 seconds. Alarm is very sensitive, kick the tires and it will go off. - I keep wooden blocks in the trunk to drive onto so I can get a jack underneath. Blocks included. - I made a makeshift bracket for the upper radiator hose using plumbers tape because after the Meziere water pump was installed and fired up, it started to rub on the upper radiator hose after the hose swelled after the engine warmed up. It didn’t rub through or cause any damage at all with the exception of rubbing a line of the black paint off the end of the water pump. The makeshift bracket isn’t the prettiest but it works well and keeps a good distance between the pump and the hose. (See pics) - Old 6 rib pulleys included (in trunk). - I only fill up with Shell or Chevron or good quality gas, 91 or higher and normally put octane booster in ea. tank unless I mix 100 octane with it. Cons: - On one of the key fobs, the key ring attachment broke, so I have silicon tape wrapped around it so it will stay on the key ring. Key fob still works, no issues. - The oil pressure gauge mounted on the pillar is non-operative. I never saw the reason to hook it up when there is an oil pressure gauge on the dash panel. Just didn't want to leave an empty spot on the pillar mount. - There are 3 gauges mounted on the pillar, oil pressure, boost, and fuel pressure. The boost and fuel pressure gauges illumination light bulbs are out. I have replacement bulbs but have not gotten around to putting them in. I absolutely hate taking the pillar off to be honest. They will be included (in center console). - The driver’s side dust boot on the rack and pinion is torn in one spot. Does not leak any fluid as the seals inside are not damaged. Just the dust boot. - The throttle body spring is weak....need to feather the gas when coming off of her hard, normal driving is fine. Not a lot, just a quick stab at the throttle should do. Never got around to calling Accufab about it, never really bothered me. -When under extreme boost and from smashing it, the rubber sleeve between the intake pipe and the throttle body will come off. It comes off only at the throttle body end, intake pipe end is fine. Again it only happens when you boost the crap out of it. Haven’t figured out a way to keep it on under that much pressure. I even mounted heavy duty T-Bolt Clamps to each end and it helped a lot but it still pops off under extreme boost only. If you torque the hell out of the T-Bolt (throttle body end only), they hold the rubber sleeve longer under extreme boost. But sooner or later the sleeve will come off and I just put it back on and tighten. Only comes off under full boost and if you're romping on her all the time. Does not come off under normal driving conditions. - When the shop took off the supercharger during the 8 Rib upgrade, I am almost 100% sure that they must did something to the blower. It never leaked before and after they finished they told me there was a small oil leak from the blower. It’s a very slow leak, almost 2 months before it hit the “minimum” oil level line. It drips onto the tensioner arm, and has NOT come in contact with the belt, even while driving. I contacted ProCharger and they quoted a few hundred to tear apart and put new seals in. I never sent it in as I had originally planned on sending it in and upgraded it to the D1SC, which would put out more HP and TQ. They said $1500 for the D1SC upgrade. Can still be driven just fine as the leak is VERY slow, I just check it before I drive and after, and there is no noticeable difference after operation. - Rock and curb chips on the lower front bumper. - I wasn’t paying attention one day, and pulled too far into a parking space and the curb lifted the front bumper up and broke the plastic part of the top mounts in the engine bay (see pics). This did not make the bumper fall off as there are other mounts elsewhere that were undamaged, but I zip tied them cause it annoyed me, and it actually holds better/stiffer that way. - Needs to be Re-tuned if you plan on driving her hard often, normal driving should be just fine. After I installed the Meziere Electric Water Pump and went from a 3.20” supercharger pulley to a 2.90”, I have not had it re-tuned. I have not driven it hard since the changes but can feel a big difference in the performance with more boost (It comes on faster/harder at lower RPM’s) Going to assume it will be around 18-19 lbs of boost after the re-tune with the smaller pulley and electric water pump. - ABS sensor light will come on after about 10-15 min of driving. Started coming on when I put the Nitto 555R’s (305/40/18) on. Never bothered with it since I don’t smash the gas and brakes everywhere I go and I rarely drive it as it is. Maybe just needs a new ABS sensor…not sure. Title Info: - I still owe money on the car since I took loans out to pay for some of the work done to it and used it as collateral. I currently owe $4195.00 and Navy Federal Credit Union holds the title. Once payment is received and cleared (if paying by personal or cashier’s check or through PayPal) I will Fed-Ex you a copy of the registration (the original will stay with the car when shipped) and a bill of sale from the CA DMV. Once you sign the bill of sale with your information, return it back in the included prepaid envelope. Once I receive the bill of sale back with your signature and information, I will make a copy and send the original back to you. Once I pay off the bank and receive the title, I will Fed-Ex it to you overnight or I can ask the bank to mail it directly to you or your bank (if using a loan), up to you. While waiting for the title, I will send you any paperwork I receive from the bank that states the loan has been paid off and the title is in transit. If shipping, it is your responsibility! There are a few different local vehicle shippers 10 min away from me in Monterey, CA., and I advise you to contact one and get a quote prior to bidding. I WELCOME you to come and check out the car in person or have someone come and look at it prior to bidding so that all your questions, if any, are addressed. Test drives welcome…I promise you, you will not be disappointed. Local pickups encouraged. I reserve to end the auction early as the vehicle is for sale locally also. *ATTN CA BUYERS/BIDDERS ONLY!!! Buyer responsible for SMOG…I will try & help you out if you are serious *CA BUYERS/BIDDERS ONLY!!! By bidding, you are agreeing that the vehicle mentioned & described in this add is sold as-is with no verbal, written, expressed or implied warranty between the seller and buyer. Vehicle is being sold as-is and any repairs, known or unknown, disclosed or undisclosed shall be the responsibility of the buyer. Again, inspections are welcome! A Non-refundable deposit of $500 is due within two (2) calendar days after the auction is over. The remaining balance of the winning bid is due within seven (7) calendar days after the auction closes. Any bidder that wins the auction and fails to pay within the time allotted, and or fails to pay the winning purchase amount will be reported. She is not perfect, but is still a beauty to behold and a monster to drive. I have listed all the info, mods, cons, etc., to the best of my ability. If there are any questions, please do not hesitate to contact me through ebay or my cell# (831) 261-1818. Thank you and happy bidding!