1983 Toyota Supra

2.8l double overhead cam inline 6

Automatic

JT2MA67L1D0070106

Clear

Gasoline

PLEASE READ AT LEAST THE PARAGRAPHS! THIS IS THE ONLY '83 SUPRA LISTED IN THE USA (last I checked), AND YOUR TIME READING THIS WILL BE VERY WELL SPENT! This is a rare opportunity to buy a classic AMX-inspired 2nd generation Supra from a long-time owner (myself) who has put many THOUSANDS OF DOLLARS into it (and has over 1 inch of receipts to prove it). I bought this Silver over black 1983 Supra from the SECOND owner in Sept., 1994, and have driven it less than 30,500 miles since. I have spent over five thousand dollars on the undercarriage alone, for improvements and restoration that has not been amortized yet. (and much more under the hood). The list of work below totals almost 5 figures. Built in March, 1983, and still has the orig. engine + transmission (rblt) + differential (rblt). The first owner took meticulous care of the car for the ten years he owned it (I have his name and the dealer he purchased it from). The second owner, a software engineer, only had it 15 months. The 1st photo was taken 13+ yrs ago. and (in my biased opinion) shows how much better my silver '83 (w the convex OEM mags) looks than the black '84 in front of her (w the concave mags...I pulled up behind this Supra to take the photo). Sorry, but I tilted my Polaroid camera to take this photo (and can't take the diagonal out of it). The 4th photo, which is date stamped by a concurrent event in 2010, shows an example of my meticuity (I removed hyd. fluid line from tranny to clean). The 5th photo is of my '82 (other) Supra, w the hatch just resting in place (same silver color as my '83! - NOTE THAT I DIDN'T INCLUDE THIS PHOTO IN THIS AUCTION; I WILL EMAIL IT TO YOU IF INTERESTED). Keep reading for an explanation of the parts that are included from the '82 (have had both cars for a combined 30+ years). If you're interested in both Supras, please call me before bidding (phone number is near bottom of this page). Cutting to the chase, the '83 is virtually rust-free (never in road salt), has an exceptionally well-maintained engine/tranny, and has had a ton of meticulous work done to it (note that all of the work was done AFTER 1998 – I stored the car for 50+ months after buying it). THERE IS NO HINT OF CIGARETTE SMOKE IN THE INTERIOR. I HAVE THE OWNERS MANUAL, DEALER INFO, ORIG. MASTER KEY (UNUSED), AND A HUGE FILE OF RECEIPTS FOR THE CAR (spent by yours truly). IT NEEDS TO BE SMOGGED (if you live in CA), AND I WILL BE ELIGIBLE FOR $500 OF FREE REPAIRS IF IT FAILS (less a small deductible). BUYER MUST PUT A FIRM, GOOD-FAITH DEPOSIT ON CAR BEFORE I WILL GO THROUGH THIS FOR HIM/HER... "OPTIONS": Electric windows, electric antenna, electric mirrors, tilt wheel, cruise control, A/C (no sunroof - no rust spots, which are common with the sliding roof, and no dings on roof of this car). RESTORATION/REPAIRS (most recent work listed first, with miles driven since performed): 0 miles: New Toyota Ignition Igniter (list, $566), wires, cap, rotor, platinum plugs, etc (including other re;ated laborious tasks). 0 miles: New Clutch Master Cylinder & Slave Cylinder, line removed & entire system flushed with denatured alcohol and blown out/then bled. DOT 4/5 (police-grade) fluid used. This time, it will last for a lot more than 12 yrs! 0 miles: ALL vacuum hoses replaced, and some PCV hoses as well. 2k miles: NEW WINDSHIELD (still haven’t put moldings on; better to wait until car’s painted). 2k miles: NEW RWL 225/60R-14 STEEL BELTED RADIAL TIRES (coated many x inside/out). 7k miles: 100% ALUMINUM EXHAUST SYSTEM (over $1,000) WITH TWIN TAILPIPES (sounds infinitely better than the 4-banger “sewer pipe” cars on the road). GREAT RENONATING PURR, w/o being obnoxious. 7k miles: NEW CATALYTIC CONVERTER INSTALLED AT SAME TIME. 8k miles: REBUILT DIFFERENTIAL + INDEPENDENT SUSPENSION OVERHAUL (over $2,000). Needs an axle bearing replaced that wasn’t installed correctly at the time (I have new in box, with accompanying new seals). 15-18k miles: NEW RADIATOR + ALTERNATOR + SHOP CONVERSION TO R134A FREON (Rblt COMPRESSOR w lifetime warranty, new suction valve/rcvr drier, etc.). Compressor has failed, and I have receipts... 28k miles: NEW 2-pc CUSTOM-BUILT DRIVESHAFT WITH REPLACEABLE TRUCK U-JOINTS (only the expensive red grease used). This is better than the o.e.m. driveshaft, which cost $1400+ in 1998 (obsolete today). THIS DRIVESHAFT IS BULLET-PROOF… 30k miles: REBUILT TRANSMISSION (all bearings) + GEAR SHIFT, HIPO- CLUTCH, PRESSURE PLATE, T/O BEARING. 30k miles: REBUILT BRAKE CALIPERS + NEW ROTORS + Halogen headlights. 30k miles: PERFECT SET OF ORIGINAL WHEELS (MAGS) HIGHLY POLISHED (have “hubcaps” in xlnt condition, but choose to leave them off to expose lug nuts – looks better). 30k miles: NEW TIMING BELT, IDLER PULLEY, SEALS, WATER PUMP, EVERY COOLANT HOSE. 30k miles: ADDED TUFF-OIL TO CRANKCASE WHEN CHANGING OIL (Cost $1/ounce in 80s). In addition, I’ve had 100s of dollars of other work done to engine (too many small things to list, much of it by myself, Mr. Meticulous). Compression test (May 2012, using professional Mac tester): (1) 184 (2) 181 (3) 171 (4) 167 (5) 188 (6) 185 (honest readings recorded - engine runs very smoothly, and always has). Wet test did not raise readings more than 1 psi, which means the rings are still doing their job well. I have a 1982 Supra with a perfect body (no dents anywhere - bought from orig. owner 12 yrs ago), for parts to swap with my '83 (which has one dent in L fender, a small ding in front of R fender, and a tiny crease in the mid-outer skin of the driver door). The ’82 has a clean hatchback to swap (mine has water-intrusion rust that is common to these Pantera-styled rear “doors”), and some rear interior panels to make the interior better. BTW, it is an automatic, with a sunroof (and rebuilt engine). It doesn't run (but turns over - probably the ignitor on this one, as well). The '83 interior has cracks on the dash, but the upholstery is nice (no rips except for a strange place - on the outer side of the front seat - metal edge from seat frame cut it). I have a nice perfect fitting dash mat to cover the cracked dashpad. The carpet is also very nice (no water damage or rips). Floor mats (2 sets, including a pair of front Toyota mats) are included. The car WILL eventually need painting, but has no surface rust (except a little on tailgate from '82, which is included). Side moldings are off of car, but included (best set is from the '82). Other parts that come with car: EXTRA electric mirrors, xlnt turn-signal/headlight switch in great cond., extra original AM/FM cassette radio (with built-in equalizer), etc. The N.O.S. rear spoiler in the photo is included with the buy-it-now price (only). I HAVE PERFORMANCE PARTS (PERFECT ALUMINUM LOUVERS FOR HATCHBACK, FRONT GROUND-EFFECTS “DAM”, ETC.) AVAILABLE FOR A REASONABLE COST (if interested). These were VERY expensive parts to come by. My ’83 needs some elbow grease, but NO expensive parts. If painted (all black? or true silver, w/black accents, similar to the factory job?), it would get a lot of attention on the road. This car will give many years of reliable service down the road. You need only to concern yourself with the orig. engine, and these 5MGE engines are known to go at least 250 – 300,000 miles before needing rebuilding. The Celica Supra was the top-of-the-line for Toyota for many years, and the 2nd generation – from ’82 to ’86 – has become collectible for its (1968 & 1969) AMX-inspired design. The difference is that the Supra (with its long, sturdy front end) is a much safer car, is aerodynamic, and gets up to 3 times the gas mileage of the AMX! Any questions? Please call six one nine *** eight eight four *** seven six eight four, at your convenience. Phone number is written, because I'd like people to read this first rather than just look for a ten digit number in the ad. PLEASE leave a detailed message if no answer (10am - 10pm PDT is best). Your call will be returned promptly. International bidders are prohibited from bidding unless given express permission to do so through ebay's message center by me. Transporting is the responsibility of the buyer. I will help in any way I can (including getting the car to the Long Beach Pier for only $150, if it is to be shipped overseas). Deposit of $500 US funds must be made through PayPal (or bank wire) within 72 hours. If you need the car in five days or less, please call me first! Thank you very much for your interest and cooperation...