1975 Triumph TR-6

Convertible

Manual

CF35994U

Clear

Some of you may recognize this car from a previous listing. After having received the wrong title with this car, I had a bit of a go around. With that issue fully resolved, I have a clean title in hand. I ask you to please look closely at all of the photos that will show the actual condition of this car. Realizing that you may be 5 states away and cannot simply come over and look for yourself, I will answer any questions and photograph any angle of this car that you may want to see. I try my hardest to give the most accurate description of my items as an attempt to eliminate any surprises. As the auction progresses, I will be adding updated information. I'm not going to be consistently working on it as I have plenty of other projects, however, if I see something that is a simple fix and if I have the parts to fix it, I will. So, up for auction is a 1975 Triumph TR6 that has been setting for quite some time. Though it's a darn good looker that runs good and drives, this car will need some work. In addition to the photos here on Ebay, you can visit http://photobucket.com/75tr6 where there are approx.80 more photos.Some have had difficulty with this link so I'll add this one. http://s1064.photobucket.com/albums/u363/Unclepeas/1975%20Triumph%20TR6/ You should be able to paste it into your browser and go. When I received this car, the hydraulics functioned but were very spongy. I have bled the clutch but it still isn't working properly. Be it a hydraulic issue or the release bearing arm, I can't honestly say. As for the brakes, as luck usually goes, both rear bleeder screws twisted off. I went ahead and bled the fronts and adjusted up the rears so the hand brake would work. I was able to get a decent pedal, but the rear brakes are not working as they should! My only goal was to get it to a point where I could to drive it and check out the drive train to give as accurate description as possible. I have since aquired a pair of wheel cylinders and if weather and time permits, I will install them providing the lines come off easily. I will not render the car disabled! The brake shoes, pads, drums and rotors are all in very good condition. The front calipers don't appear to be hanging up, and the rear adjusters operate freely. The rubber lines all look nice with no signs of cracking decay or splitting. The carburetors were severely gummed up with bad gas so I took them apart & did a major clean up and gave them a pair of diaphragms. The front throttle shaft is still a little sticky and the pcv hoses being brittle and wouldn't seal at the carburetors, so a fine tune or consistent good idle isn't possible without further repair. A complete disassembly, thorough cleaning and a pair of kits is strongly advised. The chokes work fine but will need a cable. (only one operates) The fuel tank has been flushed and a small leak was repaired. The engine starts and runs smoothly. It has a nice strong acceleration with no smoke, the valve train is quiet and along with the new OE style dual exhaust, the car sounds just like a TR6 should! At start up, it has a little over 50 psi. oil pressure, and drops down around 18-20 once at temp. The engine has some seeps and a leak that should go away after replacing the oil filter. The car runs and drives very well. Even with the clutch not working as it should, the non overdrive transmission shifts good and operates with no abnormal noises. The rear differential and hub bearings are quiet as well The rear Vredestine 185-15 tires are in excellent condition. The two front Michelin Red lines have severe cracking on the sidewalls and are not suitable for use! As you can see in the photos, someone has done some custom upholstery work. Realizing that everyone has their own personal taste, I'll just say that it isn't factory. The seat cushions are in excellent condition, all the carpet is present and if a person chose to re use it, it will require some gluing. The boot cover appears to be custom made. It fits the car well, and has been painted to match the interior color. There is no top or tonneau cover. The visors operate freely, and the wood dash is in beautiful condition! Whoever did the body work on this car focused primarily on the outside, (what you can see) Using magnetic business card strength magnets, I placed them in the areas where these cars are known to rust or have damage. The car passed the magnet test showing that it isn't caked full of filler. (see photos) The outside body is very straight and the paint has a beautiful shine. Please note from the photos that not all seams line up as they should There is some rust on the rear inner wheel arches where they meet the floor. This area was poorly patched using tin and pop rivets. The drivers side floor pan has been patched with a basic sheet of steel overlay. The right floor pan is solid from front to back. When they replaced the rockers, they did not replace the inner sills and left that area hollow. As you will also see, the paint is peeling under the hood and in the trunk. The paint in the jambs is not glossy like the outside. The trunk floor is solid and as you'll see in the photos, there is a hole on the right side where the right rear inner wing meets the trunk floor. The chrome on the bumpers has some light to medium pitting, yet no blisters or peeling. The overriders are in very nice condition. The chrome on the headlight trim rings is nice, the door handles look nice however the left handle does have a button issue. I do not know the entire history of the car so I cannot say that the odometer reading of 82641 is actual, nor can I say that it's never been in an accident. However, the frame doesn't show any indications of having been so, and I don't know how long the speedometer cable has been broke. In the photos, you will see that frame has been reinforced in the X area as well as the support where the right trailing arm attaches. Nice sturdy steel was used, and the welds look solid. The windshield and door glass are all in good condition. There are the normal vertical scratches on the door glass at the back. The windshield is in remarkably good condition! You will also see that the ignition switch is separated from the lock cylinder. The key assembly works fine as does the switch. Yet when you put the two together, it will not go into the start position?? With the exception of the speedometer, and the fuel gauge, all of the gauges work. The dash lights, brake lights and marker lights work, but no headlights. The charging system is in working order but as with most British project cars, it will need some attention to the electrical system. Please also note the bezel for the right wiper arm is missing as are the wiper arms. With a little work this car could become a great daily driver, or one could go ahead and restore it to the condition that it should be. If you have any questions, or would like a photo from an angle that I haven't covered, Please, feel free to ask! As the listing goes on, I will be adding more as interested parties ask for specific angles. If there is something I haven't shown, please feel free to ask and I can either send them to your e mail as well as post them on Photobucket. Remember, the time to ask questions is BEFORE bidding. Powered by eBay Turbo Lister The free listing tool. List your items fast and easy and manage your active items. On Jul-28-12 at 06:35:53 PDT, seller added the following information: After replacing the ignition switch and a lubing the lock cylinder, it now starts with the key as it should. While under the dash, I resolved the problem of the headlights as well. Both high and low beams now work. Still nothing on the turn signals. I had an extra choke cable so I installed it and both carbs have choke action. The clutch issue was resolved by replacing a worn pin where the pedal and master come together. It still feels a little soft, but as I said, the car has been setting. Anyone familiar with British cars knows that goes with the territory.