1982 Mazda RX-7

Street Ported 13B

Manual

JM1FB3313C0636961

Salvage

Gasoline

1982 RX-7 Highly Modified Looks like and Mechanically is like a ’85 GSL-SE Body Mariah Wide Body Kit Two Color Paint, Grey On Bottom and Guards Red (Porsche Red) on top Sun Roof HRE Wheels: 16” X 8” in Front and 16” X 9” In Rear Re-Speed Stage II Rack/Pinion Steering Modification (Steering as Good as my Porsche) Coilovers In Front Camber/Caster Adjustable Adjustable Racing Beat Lower Control Arms (Of Course Sway Bars, Bushings Etc.) Strut Tower Brace GSL-SE Engine Street Ported Runs VERY Strong GSL-SE Manual Tranny GSL-SE Drive Shaft GSL-SE Rear Axle GSL-SE Gas Tank GSL-SE Front Struts GSL-SE Interior Dash Torsen Differential With 444? Final Drive Ratio The Rear Part Of a Full Roll Cage Power Windows Power Door Locks Alarm A-Pillar Gages: Autometer Ultralite Fuel Pss, Water Temp, Oil Pss, Oil Temp Dash Top Permanently Mounted Innovate Motorsports Air/Fuel Ratio Gage Battery: Odyssey (3 Years Old) Remotely Located In Storage Compartment Behind Passenger Seat With Battery Disconnect Switch Within Reach. (My Previous Optima Lasted 11 years in that cooler location) Engine Note: This Car Has No catalytic Converter and will not pass a smog test. You will need to be creative, unless your area - Like Pinal County In Arizona - does not require smog testing. Street Ported GSL-SE 13B Aluminum Flywheel Installed 3 Years Ago. 30,000 miles on it. Great Motor – Runs Very Strong EVERY Part Of the Engine was NEW Parts, except for the 3 iron housings. The Old ones were low miles and people convinced me I should re-use them, so I did. (Really ALL NEW Parts - even E-Shaft and Tension Bolts with receipts to back that up) Rotary Aviation Oil Metering Pump Modification (Separate Oil Injection Reservoir) Haltech E8 Engine Management System TWM Dual 50mm Throttle Bodies K&N Air Filters Weber IDA Intake Manifold 4 Injectors (currently just using two, the other two in the TB’s Were for “Staging” in a Turbo Application) Direct Fire Ignition, (4 Corvette LS-1 Ignitor/Coil Modules) Currently Set Up For Sequential Injection 2nd Gen Crank Angle Sensor The Tuning is Dialed In Very Well, Can Drive Off Right After Starting up on a cold morning. Very Impressive due to it’s Street Porting. Racing Beat Dual Long Primary Exhaust System – Excellent Condition. Headder (30,000 miles) Is Jet Hot Ceramic Coated with a O2 Sensor Bung in Both Pipes (Yes the ceramic coating dramatically Reduces Engine Bay Temperatures) Dual Fuel Pump Set-Up. One Fuel Pump is used at a time. I usually change pumps (By Dash Mounted Switches) every week or two. This Is for Redundancy because a bad pump leaves you stranded (bad experience 25 years ago) I guess I spent too much time in the Aerospace Industry. – reliability and redundancy An added benefit is when both pumps are on – you get an additional 5 PSI Pressure. Leading And Trailing Ignition can be independently Switched Off (By Dash Mounted Switches) to aid in Diagnostics All Wiring involved with “Running The Car/Engine/Ign/Fuel Pumps/etc.” is new wiring (30,000 miles ago). I did not want to rely on 1982 wires and connectors. Detailed Wiring Diagrams Included. Aerospace Quality Wiring Harnesses Key Items Replaced 3 years ago (30,000 Miles Ago) Approximately $17,000 Spent at this time including the Engine (Lots Of Labor Charge Here - At Mazdatrix. I did none of the work below personally) Jan to Mar – 08 192,400 Miles at that time Approx 222,300 now Installed Street Ported 13B. Everything was done to make it the best possible engine. Replaced all Clutch Components including Flywheel friction Surface. Installed E8 ECU Installed Innovate Motorsports LC1 / XD16 Wideband Meter. Install second Fuel Pump Replaced all fuel filters (GSLSE Filters) All Soft Fuel Lines Steel Braided With AN Fittings Install NEW Radiator, Radiator Hoses Radiator Fans (One Year Ago) Replaced Oil Cooler, Oil Cooler Steel Braided Lines. Install New Combination Switch (For Cruise Control that is not currently set up) Replaced the Brake/Clutch Cruise Control switches and Brake Switch (In Pedal Cluster) Install ReSpeed R&P Steering Kit Steering As Good As My Porsche… Probably the best RX-7 Mod You Can Do. Replace front Wheel bearings and Brake Discs and Pads. Rebuilt Calipers. Replaced rear Wheel bearings and Seals, brake Discs and Pads. Rebuilt Calipers Replaced Brake MC and Brake System flushed. Replaced Clutch MS, Clutch SS, Clutch Hose Clutch Fluid Drive Shaft LS-1 Direct Fire Ignitions TWM Dual 50mm TB & Injectors, Second Fuel Pump IDA Intake Manifold, Rotary Aviation External Oil Injection System, New AC System Charge, AC Hoses, AC Compressor, AC Condensor, AC Dryer 2nd Gen Starter Allignment, All new wiring for critical items. Detailed Wiring Diagrams Included For the past 3 years since the restoration, it shared “Daily Driver” Status along with my 914 (Which also will be going up for sale after the RX-7 is sold). The RX-7 is a Blast To Drive – Especially with the Rack/Pinion Steering. I Drove 1st Gen RX-7’s continuously since my first one in 1981, and this one - that started as a project in the early 90’s. (I have a THICK Loose Leaf Binder with every thing I ever did to the car. Receipts, Information, Data, Schematics, Wiring Diagrams Etc) My Excel Spread Sheet shows $60K Spent on this project from the start. I got the receipts to back it up. (This high cost can be explained by – for example – doing things several times over again, till I got it perfectly right. One Example: I had a full roll cage installed. It was NOT safe for the street without a helmet – so then I paid to have the front part removed. All costs were listed.. MANY Examples like this – like several different intake and ECU systems etc until I was convinced I had the best possible set-up) It was my Best Effort to have an OUTSTANDING RX-7 and I certainly never expected that I would ever sell it. It was my sanity and hobby that got me through three wives and several crazy girlfriends… A Life-Saver!! But things Change….. I am single and I just don’t have time for cars any more. As soon as my job here ends (one year possibly 2), I’m moving to Mexico and I do not plan to bring any cars with me. Selling the RX-7 is a little sooner than planned, due to some damage it now has I Drove over some wood while entering a freeway. The Front Air Dam got damaged and needs to be replaced Also, the Front Driver Side Wheel Rim Lip bent enough so that it would not hold air. I drove it home, about 2 miles on the flat. Didn’t seem that bad. I thought Repairing the wheel would fix everything, so I Had Both Front Wheels Straightened, and polished. They Look Great!! But there is still a problem To go in a straight line, the steering wheel is about a quarter turn off. I'm sure it needs an allignment. A Tie Rod Might be slightly bent, but that is not obvious by looking at it. Sometimes it pulls to the left, other times you let go of the steering wheel and it goes perfectly straight. Something is lose it seems. Going over something like a speed bump can either make it pull to the left - or stop it from pulling. This is what makes me think something is loose. I did get a good look under the car With the State Farm Insurance Inspector. He said I might just need an allignment - I think it might need more than that. There appears to be no damage AT ALL under the car The Sway Bar Comes Out Of the holes symmetrically on both sides. Struts look undamaged and symmetrical. The Insurance Adjuster was looking too and he saw nothing out of order with the suspension or any visible parts. But we did not check for tightness of bolts. The Rack&Pinion Steering Parts are ALL easily visible and all look undamaged. But the Steering Rack Itself – I don’t know what is going on inside. A New One is $265. I think this part is fine. I do not see how the steering rack can explain the "sometimes" pulling anyway This will be a difficult car to sell... It will not pass a smog test and people that want highly modified cars usually want to do it themselves. I don’t want to go through a repair just to "Part it out" afterwards if I can not sell it as a total car. It seems I'll take a big loss either way - so I'll just try to sell it "as is" I also have no place to repair the car or even get under it to check for tightness of bolts (What I "Think" the problem is) It was “Just Past The Point” Of the insurance criteria for “Totaling It”. ($1000 for the Air Dam with paint, I Spent Almost $500 On Straightening and Polishing the wheels, The Oil Cooler Was slightly tweaked – I would not replace it if I was doing the repair – but the Insurance Company added $575 for that, – so they totaled it based on 1982 Blue Book) If I showed them receipts – they would have fixed it according to the adjuster. I decided to let it total – to push me in the direction of letting it go. If it sells on E-Bay – Great.. I’ll be one step closer to Mexico and someone will have One Hell Of an RX-7.. If not – I’ll part it out. Lots of valuable goodies on it. I don’t care about taking such a big loss on it. I just want to move on, then when the dust settles – I will sell my 914 also. (The 914 is in a very high state of mechanical and interior restoration) The Salvage Title Process is going on now. It is a current Arizona Title, plates and Registration, Originally a California Car. I still have copies of my Calif Title and registration. What The Car Needs To make it an Outstanding RX-7 Front Air Dam With Paint ($1000) Available From Design Energy Possibly, as a worst case, it would need two front shocks ($300 plus labor) The Oil Cooler Is fine, but slightly tweaked Something needs to be tightened - based on the symptoms, this is the only thing I can think of that would cause a car to either drive straight, or pull to one side Everything else in the steering and suspension is easily seen and is undamaged. No Suspension or steering bushings looked stressed. I never did get around to re-doing the interior. I recommend Sparco Torino Seats and a new carpet. The Dash is in excellent shape. The Power Window Regulator on the passanger side needs to be replaced - it is worn past the point of adjustment. Included with the car is a NEW - in Mazda Factory Packaging - Sealed Passanger Side Power Window Regulator The Drivers Side Power Windor Regulator was replaced with a NEW Regulator about two years ago. Also included with the car are TWO Power Window Motors I hope the car goes to a good home, it would be a real waste for it to go to the bone yard when it is in such a good state of mechanical restoration. The Red paint is in OK condition, but the clear coat is peeling in a few places. The Grey paint is about 5 Years Old. The Rear Wing has a split that should be repaired. Also, one of the rear wheels has a damage on the lip. No functional problems with this - but it's visible I will start this auction at a price equivalent to what I can get for parting out the easy to get to pieces I can supply other pictures upon request Feel Free to ask questions I do not have internet access on Fri, Sat or Sunday (I'm in Mexico then) I will check my E-Mail on Monday - I will respond questions and include my phone number for easier communication. Also - If you are interested in any of the "Parts" - Let me know, because if this car does not sell on E-Bay I will likely "Part It Out" Thanks For Looking and reading this Long Ad!!