Detail Info for: Volvo 1967 Volvo 1800S Restoration Project

Transaction Info

Sold On:
01/18/2012
Price:
$ 799.00
Condition:
Mileage:
999999
Location:
Las Cruces, NM, 88011
Seller Type:
Private seller

Vehicle Specification

Year Make Model:
1967 Volvo
Submodel Body Type:
Coupe
Engine:
4 - Cyl.
Transmission:
Manual
VIN:
22935
Vehicle Title:
Drive Train:
Fuel Type:
Gasoline
Standard Equipment:
Optional Equipment:

Vehicle Detail

Normal 0 false false false EN-US X-NONE X-NONE Update: I see a huge number of folks watching this auction. I just want to say that the gauges alone are easily worth $500. For parts alone, there is no way anyone can get hurt on this deal at my starting bid. I know it is a hassle to plan a trip to come get the whole project, so that is why my bid is so low to start. I can keep the car in storage (inside a garage) for up to two months after auction so you can plan a trip to come get it. I would love to see it go to someone that will restore it, but if this auction closes with no bids, then I will sell the most valuable parts and sell the body and motor to a salvage yard. 1967 Volvo 1800S Restoration Project. I purchased this car from Texas several years ago with the intention of doing a full restoration of the car, but I can’t see finishing this myself and have decided to let this project go. The parts alone are well worth the money, however, I will not sell individual parts at this time; you must buy the whole car and bring a truck and trailer to take it all away. Since so many parts are in boxes, I will include all boxes that things are stored in now (including the engine stand the motor is sitting in), but I can’t realistically ship this car. It must be picked up locally. I will try to describe in detail where I am at on various parts of the car. Body: The floor pans are rusted and need to be replaced. The car was hit on the left side at some point and filled with bondo. Extensive body work is needed to bring this body back. The good part is that the sub-frame unibody parts look fine underneath and the upper body surfaces look good, so the majority of the body work can be accomplished with the standard aftermarket replacement panels. These consist of floor pans, lower quarter panels, door sills, lower parts of the door sheet metal, rear valance, etc. The battery box is rusted and a new one will need to be welded in. The hood will need work where the hinges mount at the front. Front windshield is missing. Rear glass is there. Side windows are there. The door windows have some scratches in the glass and I was planning to replace them. I have bumpers and the mounting brackets in a box. The bumpers may need some minor work, but need chrome. I have two complete front grills with the original brass grill surrounds. One set is much better than the other. The best grill surround will still need new chrome. I also have a black plastic grill from a later car in case it is too much work restoring the original grill. Have original jack. Motor: This came with the bigger B20 motor with the correct later B20 head. I had planned to have someone go through both. The lower end looks good and may only need to be measured and reassembled with new rings and bearings. Buy with the idea that the motor and head will need to be rebuilt just to be on the conservative side. The guy I bought this from had installed a rebuilt starter, alternator conversion, and had the radiator, heater core and fuel tank restored by a radiator shop. All of these parts are ready to go. The car came with a Weber conversion already on it. I have restored the Cannon manifold, but the Weber carb will probably need to be gone through. Driveline and Steering: The front end has been redone already with new poly bushings everywhere. The tranny is the M41 with the early overdrive. I had planned to send this to a specialist to be rebuilt and the assumption should be that it needs to be rebuilt (new seals and gaskets at a minimum, still requiring a full tear down). All torsion bars are there for the rear, but will need new bushings. The rear end is still on the car and will probably need to be gone through. I have the hydraulic clutch parts (one original master cylinder and one new aftermarket). All wheels are original and have correct date stamps (spare wheel included). Brakes: The drum brakes are still on the rear axle. I have the Girling 3-pot calipers in a box, but they will need to be rebuilt. There is a company that makes replacement stainless steel pistons. A complete brake line kit will be needed. There are two choices on the master cylinder. I have an original that can be rebuilt or the later style can be installed using an adapter that I also have. Parking brake parts in storage, many already restored and powder-coated. I do not have the Girling brake booster. Interior: I have two complete dashes. Note picture of original Volvo radio (missing face plate). The seats are in storage, but the entire interior will be needed that includes the seat leather and all interior panels. All seat hardware is in a box. I have restored the seat rails. I took them apart, power-coated them and zinc plated some parts; then I replaced the ball bearings. The seat rails are ready to go. I have two full sets of gauges. One set would need to be restored. The other set I accumulated and are ready to install (very good, but not show quality). You will need a carpet kit and headliner kit (I do have the headliner, but I would just get a new one). I have restored the windshield wiper system, all of the window mechanisms, the cowl vents, the door parts, etc. The heater box is close to being finished, it just needs painting and then it can be put back together (new gaskets included). The heater motor has been restored and tested. I know I could recoup more money if I parted the car out, but I would rather not do that. I believe the car is restorable and prefer that it go to someone that intends to finish the restoration. The body work needed is not for the inexperienced, but for someone with good sheet metal and welding skills, I have no doubt it can be made to look fantastic. Again, please don’t ask about shipping the car. There are too many boxes of parts and loose items that need to be transported. This will have to be a local pickup. The car will need to be hauled on a flat-bed trailer. A tow-dolly would not be safe.I have so many parts that I did not take pictures of, so if there is something in particular you want to see, just ask and I will take a picture and email it to you.

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