1930 Ford Model A

Hot Rod Coupe

8 - Cyl.

Manual

Gasoline

1930 Ford Model A Coupe Hot Rod In 2006 I started collecting vintage traditional parts to build my dream Hot Rod. I wanted a car that looked as though it had been nicely home built, circa 1960 or so. I attempted to use only what would have been available to a Hot Rodder around that time frame. This was a complete off the frame build. A few items I allowed to be a little newer (seat belts, alternator), up into the mid 60's, as any vehicle built and driven back then would have undergone a few changes and upgrades here and there over the years. But for the most part, almost every piece of this car would have been available to a builder in 1960. All of the mechanicals were new as of the begining of the summer of 2008 when I first got the car on the road. Any item listed as NOS or NORS was just that at the time of the build. All of the bearings, races, seals, gaskets, belts, wires, lines, etc..were replaced with new parts, and since then the vehicle has been driven only in the short Maine summers. I have most, if not all of the receipts that will go to the new owner, along with quite a few build photos. The car runs and drives well. It is fun! It sounds great and scoots along quite rapidly. However you need to understand this...it does not have power steering, there are no power brakes, no disc brakes, no IFS, no radial tires, no air conditioning. It has the buggy suspension technology of the mid 1930's and drives and rides as such. It is a real Hot Rod, and you will need to keep up with maintenance, service, and tightening bolts here and there. The 1952 Chrysler Hemi has plenty of power, but if you wail on it you will break something. The early Ford transmission and rear axle were not designed to take all of the Hemi's power. However, If you drive it sensibly you will have the most fun that one can be allowed to have on the road. Please read everything before asking questions. A seriously interested party will not be asking me questions that are clearly answered in the description below. There is no buy it now listed to avoid the scammers. I have this vehicle for sale locally. I will sell to almost anyone in the world, but I will have all of the funds in cash in my hands before I release the vehicle. This may mean waiting for cashiers checks or bank transfers to clear, so plan accordingly. I prefer cash at pick-up if possible. The buyer is to make all shipping arrangements, but I will help with loading. Serious buyers will contact me directly with their questions... This vehicle will be sold with a notarized bill of sale, and the current Maine registration slip (in my name) which has a transfer of ownership provision. There is no title. The state of Maine does not issue titles on vehicles this old. I have written a detailed description about this car. I know it is long, but I needed to do this for my insurance anyway, and I have enjoyed reminiscing... Body: 1930 Model A five window coupe. Rumble seat lid with no cushions installed. A nice set of rumble seat cushions are included if the buyer wants them. The car was a true barn find out of New Hampshire. The man that I bought it from indicated that it had been painted by an old farmer the current color, blue, back in the 1950's. The body is quite solid and you can see the few very small spots, by their small primered patches, that would need repair if you choose to do so. The doors are mint, no rust ever. they open and close very nicely. The rumble seat trunk lid is mint, no rust ever. The firewall is a mint original 1930 that I reversed. Most people do not even notice the reversed firewall. The original sub-rails from the cowl back to the rear frame kick-up are mint. The rear subrails were removed to clear the '32 frame kick up. I installed a functional 1957 Willys Jeep wagon cowl vent which does not leak. The floors are all high grade, stained, ply-wood with the exception of one steel panel under the seat which was made from a vintage 1950's Pepsi Cola sign. Grille: An extremely nice original 1932 Ford grille shell, original insert, original stainless, original radiator ornament. It has a very old radiator cap which may be an original as well. Seat: The original Model A coupe bench seat. It is in nice original condition. I removed the rear package tray and moved the seat back about 6 inches. I also removed the seat riser frame which lowered the seat by about 3 inches. I am 5' 9", 190 pounds and it is evident that a larger person would have no problem fitting this vehicle. Plenty of room for someone around 6' or so. Seat belts: NOS 1965 Jeep. Driver and passenger. Frame: The frame is an original 1932 Henry Ford frame. It came out from underneath a 1932 Ford Woodie wagon. It still has it's original front and rear crossmembers. The "X" member is from a 1936 Ford. The frame has been boxed the distance between the front and rear crossmembers. The frame horns are un-boxed. The front spreader bar is an original '32 with an original license plate bracket. The rear spreader bar is a Speedway stainless aftermarket piece. Front axle: The front axle is an original 1932 Ford axle that has been dropped approx. 3 inches and drilled with 15 holes. The split radius rods are from an original 1932 Ford wishbone. I occasionally get flak for cutting up a nice original wishbone, but It is what I had at the time, so I used it. That is what a Hot Rodder would have done back in the day. The radius rods are drilled and tapped for their tie rods. The front spring is a nice, original, Model A spring. The tie rods are new Speedway chrome pieces, and the hoop steering arm is an old vintage aftermarket part. The spindles are 1940 Ford round back style. All new tie rod ends, bearings, seals and king pins and bushings. Rear axle: The banjo rear axle is open drive. I used 1936 Ford axle bells and axles and a 1946 Ford 1/2 ton pickup open drive center section. 3:54 to 1 ratio, they are very nice gears with low miles on them. An excellent ratio for highway use and for around the town as well. The rear radius rods are 1936 Ford and they have also been drilled and tapped to accept the tie rod ends. The rear radius rods were moved outward to clear the drive shaft and to be able to mount on the brackets attached to the frame. The rear spring is a nice, original, 1936 Ford station wagon spring. The original 1932 Ford rear crossmember was nicely massaged to accept the straight spring. The four radius rod mounting brackets are one-off, custom cast aluminum pieces. They are very rugged and were based on WW 2 Power Wagon upper shock brackets.They have an art deco look to them, unlike the boring steel plates that most Hot Rods run. Front shocks: NORS late 1950's GMC truck shocks. Original F-1 Ford 1/2 ton pickup upper shock mounts. Lower mounts are studs through the axle. Rear shocks: NOS early 1960's Hurst three position adjustable racing shocks. The upper mounts are home made from angle and the lower mounts are aftermarket. Dash: The dash board is from a 1931 Willys Victoria. It has a nice deco style to it. The eight gauge panel is a Stewart Warner Hollywood panel from an old Chris Craft wooden boat. It fits in the dash panel like it was made for it. It has an original vintage Guide traffic light viewer, which comes in handy at stop lights. Gauges: Speedometer: Working but not completely accurate. It is an old Stewart Warner 120 mph speedo from a 1956/57 Studebaker Hawk. Tachometer: Not hooked up / unknown working condition. Old S-W from the same Hawk. Oil pressure: Working. Old S-W greenline. Mechanical. Temperature: Working. New S-W. Mechanical. Fuel Pressure: Working. Vintage J.C. Whitney aftermarket piece. Gas Gauge: Working, mostly accurate. New S-W. Amps: Working. New S-W. Vacuum: Working. Old S-W. Steering box and column: Willys / Ross. Steering wheel: Willys of Argentina with IKA (Industrias Kaiser Argentina) horn button. Electrical system: 12 volt. Vintage brass junction block under dash from an old wooden boat. In line fuses where necessary. Horns: 1953 Willys Jeep 6 volt unit, they are very loud with the 12 volt system. Heater: It is not hooked up and the working / leaking condition is unknown. It is a beautiful, chrome, deco style heater made by Perfection. Exhaust: Hot Heads block hugger headers. NOS pair of 1960's Thrush glass packs. Duals run through the crossmembers and out the back. Taillights. Original Henry Ford 1939 tear drop tail lamp buckets. Original Ford bezels. NORS Lynx-Eye glass lenses. License plate light: Vintage Hollywood accessory. Headlights: Vintage Guides with the marker lamps on top. Old Offenhauser cast aluminum head light stands. Directional / turn signal switch. 1964 NAPA aftermarket piece. Four way flashers work as well. Alternator: Early / mid 60's three wire AC / Delco unit. This unit has a tachometer cable drive assembly built into the back of it. Brake / Clutch Swing Pedal assembly: 1957 Ford 1/2 ton pickup unit. Hydraulic brakes and hydraulic clutch. Rear Brakes: 1946 Ford 1/2 ton pickup. Front Brakes: 1958 Buick. Big aluminum 45 finned brake drums and matching Buick backing plates and internals. 12 inch diameter, 2 1/2 inch wide shoes. Aftermarket hubs and adaptor spacers. Emergency brake. Working. 1958 Morris Minor with NORS cables. It is a pull up type lever and it is mounted on the floor, centered. Front Tires and Wheels. Firestone Deluxe Champions (Coker Tire) 6.00-16 double sided whitewalls. 1940 Ford 16" by 4" wide wheels. 5 on 5 1/2 inch bolt circle. Rear Tires and Wheels: Denman Classic 8.20-15 wide whitewalls. Early Ford 15" by 5" wide wheels that look like the '40 Ford 16" wheels, and accept the same style hub cap. 5 on 5 1/2 inch bolt circle. Drive shaft: New, custom manufactured for this vehicle. New universal joints. Windshield. Excellent original windshield frame and hinge. Windshield is very old but probably not an original. Door glass: New, tempered glass with beautifuly finished edges. All new channels. They roll up and down smoothly. Quarter and rear glass: Old...check out the original New England Hot Rod Council sticker on the driver's quarter windw. Garnish mouldings: All window garnish mouldings are present and in excellent condition. Mirrors: One, old, hinge mounted "Peep" mirror on the drivers side and an old 50's (GM?) day / night rear view mirror. Radiator: A beautiful original 1932 Ford V-8 radiator. Re-cored before I bought it. I soldered copper plugs into two of the outlets to be able to run this with the Hemi. The radiator can easily be returned to flathead V-8 by just de-soldering the two plugs. The over flow can is a vintage Sunoco outboard motor oil can. Roof insert: It does not seem to leak, but the cloth is held together with tape and silicone. This adds to the "patina"? The headliner is still in place and seems to stay dry so the wood should be ok. One vintage accessory interior sun visor for the drivers side. Wipers: New, aftermarket, 12 volt. On drivers side only. Transmission: Re-built as new. 1946 Ford 1/2 ton pickup. Floor shift, syncronized three speed with open drive out put. NOS Eelco ball shifter knob with correct three speed shift pattern. Engine: Re-built as new. 1952 Chrysler 331 ci Hemi. Completely rebuilt with all new Hot Heads internal parts. Engine Mounts / Trannsmission Adaptor: NOS Hurst front engine mounts. NOS aluminum transmission adaptor, possibly made by Speed Gems or Cragar. Aircleaner: An original from a 1956 Oldsmobile. Converted to dry element filter. Fuel: New Edlebrock carburetor. New Holley electric fuel pump mounted in the rear. Holley fuel pressure regulator. Vintage Moon aluminum fuel block on firewall. AC glass sediment bowl with filter. New aftermarket steel gas tank with 5 or 6 gallon extra capacity over stock. It is either a Bob drake or Vintique tank. Please e-mail if you have any questions or need more photos...On Aug-13-11 at 11:03:58 PDT, seller added the following information: ABOUT A TITLE... Hello everyone. If you are willing to purchase my car, I am willing help you get a title for it. However, I am not waiting to be paid while any title paperwork is being processed. I will need full payment within a week of sale's end. I have done some research and it will cost around $700.00 or maybe less, depending on which option you decide fits your needs. A new title in my name (takes longer to accomplish), or an older title (not as long to accomplish) that has not been transfered to my name, but is open. I need to know your exact paperwork requirements for you to be able to register the car, or for you to be able to export the car. I found out yesterday that the State of Maine will issue a "letter of verification in lieu of title". This letter states that the car is owned by me and registered in the State of Maine to me. They say this letter along with a notarized bill of sale and my current registration slip which has transfer of ownership on the back should be sufficient for most needs. Please let me know what you actually require, and I will work with you the best that I can. Best wishes, David. hot_rod_archaeologist(at)yahoo(dot)com