1986 Ford Mustang

GT Hatchback

5.0L 8 Cylinder High Output Gasoline Fuel

Automatic

1FABP28MXGF296553

Gasoline

SECOND OWNER, UNMOLESTED 1986 MUSTANG GTEXCELLENT CAR READY FOR A FULL RESTORATION PROJECT (or whatever - no more emissions testing since its now considered an "antique" in Texas) More photos: http://www.flickr.com/photos/7582931@N03/ Videos: http://www.youtube.com/user/samster20gmailcom?feature=mhee#p/u I've owned this car since about 1992, purchased from the original owner in Victoria, TX. Its in good condition considering its age. It has passed a Texas annual safety inspection as of July 2011 here in Dallas (valid through July 2012), and is currently insured, has valid license registration, and is driveable at this very moment. I drive it on the weekends just to keep it up, and keep the battery on a float charger during the week. FYI, after 25 years, Texas no longer requires an emissions control inspection. Last year, this car passed the emissions test with flying colors. This year, and from now on, emissions testing wont be required for this car in Texas. Meaning: you can do virtually whatever you want to the engine and it wont be smog tested. Although I would prefer my old car not become some chopped up monster. NOTE: The door jamb sticker with the VIN number is severly faded, bubbled, and almost unreadable. VIN on the dash is just fine. COLORS: Jalapena Red (1986: paint code 2R) / Med. Gray two-tone. Never had a hood sticker/decal (there were 2 paint scemes in 1986, one with the decal, the other like this one with the half red/half gray/no decal). The gray is a medium gloss gray as it came from the factory. Its not supposed to shine. One thing most people don't know is that the GT Mustangs (at least the fox-bodies) do not have any horse emblems. They didn't have any from the factory. BODY: Needs paint, although what's there aint bad. Original paint was not 2-stage clear coat, but because of prior ding/dent damage repair, parts were repainted with clear coat, and now the clear is flaking off. You can see this in the photos. Passenger rear quarter panel has slight damage where I was rear-ended in stop and go traffic, but never repaired. Does not affect driveability in any way. Body panels will look misaligned in the photos because I didn't have the patience to put them all back on straight in the Texas heat after the underhood restoration (see ENGINE below). Plus I'm getting old and can't bend around up under there to get to the bolts that easily. Fenders just need to be lined up and bolted down tight. The red paint on the roof is original. INTERIOR: Charcoal Gray, with red pinstripe seats. Black floor mats included. Front seats have a 'knee rest' bolster that pulls out, and have adjustable "wings" that can be adjusted to hold you in tighter. NEW HEATER CORE, replaced the new-fashioned way. ENGINE: 1986 High-swirl heads (still on there). Stock roller cam and hydraulic roller lifters. HO engine (different firing order than non-HO 302). I rebuilt the engine using stock parts about 6,000 miles / 4 years ago (NO mods except I used a few ARP bolts). Did an underhood restoration as best as I could. Cleaned out all the carbon from the emissions systems components, and all the crap from everywhere else. Engine block was not overbored. All the rotating assembly was reused (it was in excellent shape). New: Melling oil pump (25% more pressure), rings, main bearings, cam bearings, seals, hydraulic roller lifters, water pump, . Heads were milled flat, added rocker arm shims where needed to get correct clearance. Valve job done. Rebuild was done because a water pump bolt broke off flush with the block, so that bolt was removed by machine shop and helicoiled. Been doing fine ever since with the helicoil and ARP bolts for the water pump. Obviously has a new water pump, new radiator hoses. Nearly all vacuum lines replaced. Lower intake replaced (original one corroded a hole through the water passage). NEW THERMOSTAT. Complete cooling system flush done. Complete fuel system flush while it was disconnected - NEW GAS TANK, flushed fuel pump, fuel lines, fuel rail, all injectors backflushed. Good fuel pressure (stock fuel pump), no leaks. NEW TORQUE CONVERTER. NEW STARTER. NEW MOTOR MOUNTS. The engine does have some intermittent idle/hunting idle/surging problems, which I attribute to all the emissions controls. Despite my apparent knowledge, I do not know what causes this, as if I did, I would have fixed it by now. Seems to happen more when engine has been idling for a long time. However (see below), I am not a mechanic. STEERING / SUSPENSION / BRAKES: NEW FRONT BRAKE ROTORS/HUBS/BEARINGS, NEW MASTER CYLINDER. Tires are 225/60/15's - fronts are relatively new Cooper S rateds with even wear, backs are Interceptor Z rateds, even wear, but showing a little cracking. NEW INNER & OUTER TIE ROD ENDS & STEERING GEAR. NEW FRONT SWAYBAR BUSHINGS, NEW MOTOR MOUNTS TRANSMISSION: AOD 4 speed automatic overdrive WITH EXTERNAL COOLER in front of radiator. Original owner told me that he had the 86 AOD replaced with an 88 AOD under warranty after the original 86 pooped out. I can not confirm this. It seems like its had a shift-kit added to it, because it has a fairly snappy shift (not sloppy). Trans line connectors were leaking; replaced. 8.8 REAR END with Traction-Lok. Has been completely replaced at least once that I can remember. Recently changed the oil in it with new friction modifier. U-joints have been replaced probably around 1998. EXHAUST: Factory headers, dealer replaced cats under recall (see sticker on fan shroud), used to have Flowmaster mufflers, but they rusted out. Now has stock Meineke mufflers from about 2001. The rest of the exhaust was stainless steel out to the exhaust tips, but was replaced with normal steel (hence the rusting/discoloration on the tips). Stainless pipes that used to be on there didn't rust AT ALL, and you could get under there and polish them with metal polish. OPTIONS (WORKING): A/C (NO leaks, original R12 system, still charged with R12) - temp at vents can get below 32 degrees, gets so cold that it will freeze up the coils and you'll have to turn the A/C and put it on vent to defrost it - in the summer) Power windows (tinted, but tint is crispy) Power locks (all switches work, both doors lock/unlock with buttons or by hand) Power back hatch release, Power fuel filler door release Rear window defroster grid (1 or 2 lines no longer work), NEW HATCHBACK PRESSURIZED STRUTS (hold it open) Digital clock/timer/calendar Intermittent wipers Map light Low Oil Indicator Light (worked the last time my oil was low, which was like in 2002?) Gauges: Oil Pressure, Ammeter *amp gauge* (not volts) , fuel gauge, temp gauge—all work. Has an intermittent problem with the dashboard voltage regulator where all the gauge needles except amps read abnormally high. Can be fixed with a new regulator. Warning light center: Low fuel, low wiper fluid, brake light out, head light out, turn signal out indicator lights NEW Sony AM/FM/CD/MP3/WMA/Aux-In Installed (I do still have the original Ford Premium Sound AM/FM/TAPE deck, but its acting a little sketchy and needs belts - its included in this listing) Back hatch “window shade” - not ripped nor sprung Emergency fuel door release pull handle and cable OPTIONS (NOT WORKING): Factory cruise control (needs actuator module under driver side fender) *SUPER RARE OUT-OF-PRODUCTION* Marchal fog lights (busted lenses) w/orig. Marchal covers. (do an ebay search for Marchal fog lights and see how much those puppys are going for), factory installed. ORIGINALS INCLUDED WITH CAR: Original owners manual, 1 Original set of keys, Original Ford Premium Sound AM/FM/Tape (works, but has issues, its been removed) Original owner’s aluminum VIN card, All available maintenance receipts CD with photos of engine rebuild process, wiring diagrams, vac. Diagrams (I'll make the CD with all the info / photos I have). *SUPER RARE* Original issue Texas sesquicentennial (150th anniversary) license plates (1986) pictured above Box of the original bearings, lifters, etc removed during rebuild. Misc parts that have either been broken and replaced, or broken and not replaced. Original spare, tire iron (not original jack, but a compatible Ford jack is included) - original jack broke a long time ago. ALSO INCLUDES Extra 10-hole alum. wheel with mounted tire (Wheel is same size and pattern as whats on the car, but has a different car's VIN number etched into it.) Light duty trailer hitch (used for towing jet skis) - not pictured, but mounts underneath rear bumper Already wired for trailer lights (hookup is under hatchback carpet with about 2 feet of slack wire - pull it out through the back and close the hatch on it. Haynes repair manuals, EEC-IV tuning book, Mustang performance handbook. All original parts from rebuild. Locking gas cap with keys Giant stack of Magazines - "Muscle Mustangs / Fast Fords", "5.0", "Muscle Car", Box for Sony radio. I AM NOT A MECHANIC NOR A FORD TECHNICIAN, AND I CAN NOT GUARANTEE ANYTHING ABOUT THIS VEHICLE. I AM MERELY A HOBBYIST. ITS BEING SOLD AS-IS, AS A USED VEHICLE WITH OVER 200,000 MILES AND 25 YEARS OLD. WHAT I'VE TOLD YOU HERE IS ACCURATE TO THE BEST OF MY RECOLLECTION AND ABILITY AND IS NOT A WARRANTY OF THE VEHICLE'S CURRENT CONDITION. LISTING DOES NOT INCLUDE THE CURRENT LICENSE PLATES NOR REGISTRATION STICKER, WHICH WILL BE REMOVED UPON PURCHASE. I WILL GIVE YOU A TEXAS VEHICLE TRANSIT PERMIT SO YOU CAN DRIVE IT TO YOUR PLACE OF RESIDENCE WITHOUT PLATES/REGISTRATION, WHICH IS GOOD FOR 5 DAYS IN TEXAS. IF YOU ARE AN OUT-OF-STATE BUYER, I'LL DO THE SAME FOR YOU, BUT I CAN NOT GUARANTEE THAT YOUR HOME STATE WILL HONOR IT. OUT-OF-STATE BUYERS, I WILL NOT SIGN ANY OUT-OF-STATE PAPERWORK FOR YOU. BUYER IS RESPONSIBLE FOR TAKING POSSESSION OF THE CAR FROM MY PLACE OF RESIDENCE, EITHER BY PICKING UP IN PERSON AND DRIVING IT AWAY OR BY HAVING IT TOWED/TRANSPORTED AT THE BUYER'S EXPENSE. I WILL NOT DELIVER IT, NOR MEET ANYONE ANYWHERE ELSE TO CHANGE OWNERSHIP. IF YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS, PLEASE FEEL FREE TO ASK. I DO RESPOND. On Aug-09-11 at 18:44:18 PDT, seller added the following information: UPDATE 8/9/2011: I've updated the photo feed with one more photo showing the extra wheel / tire, trailer hitch, and *newly found* ORIGINAL McGard locking lug nut set and key (the center part of the key is just loose enough to spin with about 30 ft.lbs. of torque on it, so be forewarned that it may hold tight enough for you to get the locking lug nuts on, but it will likely not cooperate enough to help you get them back off). If you have a welding machine, probably an easy fix to tack the center piece of the key back in. Thanks for looking!