Detail Info for: Ford : Model A LAKES SCTA 1928 28 FORD AR ROADSTER ALL STEEL VINTAGE HOT ROD 1932

Transaction Info

Sold On:
10/25/2010
Price:
$ 18500.00
Condition:
Used
Mileage:
59495
Location:
McMinnville, OR, 97128
Seller Type:
-

Vehicle Specification

Year Make Model:
1928 Ford Model A
Submodel Body Type:
LAKES SCTA Convertible
Engine:
4 - Cyl.
Transmission:
Manual
VIN:
A122015
Vehicle Title:
Drive Train:
Fuel Type:
Gasoline
Standard Equipment:
Optional Equipment:

Vehicle Detail

Hello and welcome to another Houseofhotrod auction! Today I am listing a 1928 Ford Model A Roadster. Not just any Model A Roadster - but a real deal early build '28AR early production Roadster. The one and only Blue Bomber. Yeah - I know, this will (and has) ticked off many Model a purists, but one way to build an authentic vintage hot rod is to start with the real thing, instead of a pile of parts, or a clapped out rusty project. This is a super sharp - all steel, rust free, ground up older restoration that is super clean, and super solid - It's not some 'floppy jalopy' - it's one of the nicest Model A's I have ever owned - which has been a few, as I love the A's, and have a real soft spot for roadsters. The car is done as a pre-war hot rod. The kind of car that the kid working hard at the gas station, or the hard working blue collar worker would own, and work hard on to make it fast. This is my own car - one I have owned for a few years, and bought box stock. This is a wonderful super solid runner and driver that will absolutely be a blast to own. I will do my best to describe it so that you feel you know it, and to point out any and all problems (none that I can find on this car!). It's hard to show the total story of this car in the words I use and only 4 pictures, plus another 100 or so more I squeaked in, but again - I will do my best, I tried to use pictures that covered the overall feel and look of the car. I use lower resolution so that anyone in the world can download them with relative ease. Please be aware that this car is advertised and for sale locally, nationally and globally, and we do reserve the right to end this auction at any time if the vehicle sells before auction ends. This car is definitely for sale and definitely on the money price wise. If you are SERIOUS about this car - please call my cell # 503.580.6225 If I don't answer the first time - try again later - if I am at work I may not be able to answer your call. Please be considerate of the time. We have little ones that need to get their sleep. Someone's gonna get a beautifully and carefully restored Model A turned Hot Rod! This is a unique opportunity to own a car to enjoy, to show, to drive - and most of all have fun with. The value is here, the timing is right. You will never lose. Buy it today and be the envy of those who hesitated and missed it. Dry lakes - Timing Associations, Ahh the early days of Hot rodding. When it was fun, and simple, and not so technical. Could everyone do it, no - but anyone with a car (preferably a roadster for lighter weight) and some ingenuity,a need for speed and some gas money could - proximity to a proper dry lake bed was a big help too. Places like El Mirage, Muroc, Harper and others come to mind, and thoughts of grainy black and whites are right along with them! those grainy pics had bounced around in my head for years, and I decided to build a roadster that showed allegiance and reverence for those early days of racing, but was streetable, and driveable. I bought this car as a box stock roadster, and built it as I thought that a young man would have built the car in the pre-war (WWII) days. Other than some newer engine components (dizzy especially) and 12 volt, it's pretty darned close. They would have driven to the lakes, taken off the fenders and running boards (probably the headlights too) and run the car. They had to have hoods to race, so the hood stayed. This is no rat rod - this is an honest, all steel super nice car that is built to run, and to be dependable and drive. I took a little different tactic in building this car- instead of starting with a rusty project, I stepped up and purchased a really nice restored Model A Roadster - a rare early vintage early production '28 AR roadster - (yes a real roadster, not a body with the top whacked off, and not a reproduction body either) - and built this car with a really nice start. This increased the initial cost drastically, but I think the end result was worth it. One thing to know - this ain't no rat rod, it's a real vintage hot rod built right, and done right. The car was restored in Steamboat Springs area of Colorado in the early 70's. The body/paint/upholstery on the car was all done at that time. It is an amazing time capsule for a car that was restored nearly 40 years ago. Let's go throught the car from front to back. The engine is a completely built model A engine, and I mean completely built from the crank to the rods to the pistons, all internals are reworked. My guess is there is around 500 miles on this engine, and it cost about 6500 dollars to build. It's all balanced. The pistons are a pop up style, the cam is a Winfield grind. The valves are all completely worked, and the head is a Lions Speed Head - built by the honorable Charlie Yapp. The spark is handled by a Mallory electronic dizzy. the coil is a hi power unit for a nice fat spark. The carburetor is a later Ford (Stromberg) type downdraft carb (NOS!) with a vintage chrome air cleaner, and this all sits atop a vintage Burns intake. There are custom side covers on both sides. This little mill produces ballpark 120 horse give or take - or so I am told. It feeds an original type, but rebuilt multi disc clutch. This has been a super strong clutch set up, and the fact is that most people just don't know how to set them up. This works just great, and hooks up super well. The transmission is original '28, as is the rest of the drivetrain. It's all been converted to 12 volt with an alternator for nice fat spark and good charging. Exhaust is a stock exhaust manifold ( I was going to add a Red's Header, but just didn't care for the header look) The pipes are all new, and have no mufflers - it as a nice bark (but not overly obnoxious), and the sound with cam, especially the idle is just wonderful. The sound of a built banger, is like nothing else. Personally, there's nothing better. I have driven this car all over the place, and ran 1/8 mile drags at the Dayton Oregon Vintage Races - the day I ran it, it won fastest flathead 'award' with a trap speed over 60 mph - with my 80 plus year old father at my side. What an awesome day! The biggest problem I had was getting the rear tires to hook up! The radiator was new when the car was restored. The water pump is a leakless type. I have never had an overheat problem with the car, and have driven it in some pretty hot summer weather. The brakes are still mechanical, and they stop super well. This car will do 70 mph pretty easily, so you have to drive it with respect for the braking system. No tailgating!! I like the mechanical brakes when they are nice and tight as this car is, and adjusted well, as this car is. No worries about fluid, or wheel cylinders or master cylinders. The wheels are '34-'35 16 inch wires that have been sandblasted and powdercoated with brand new Firestone Gum Dipped blackwalls - 7.50-16 in the rear and 4.50/4.75-16 up front. The tubes are all new. The caps are '32/33 4 cylinder caps, and are gennie not repro that I can tell. The car drives super well - steers straight, with no pulling, no driveability issues at all. It's really a joy to drive!! This car is an early 'AR' '28 - and has the early red steering wheel, and the emergency brake on the left side, something they changed pretty early on these cars. I think the build date via the VIN is around February of 1928 - please correct me if I am wrong here. I installed a Rex-A-Co temperature guage to keep track of engine temps. The speedo and odo work, as does the ammeter, and fuel guage. The gas tank is clean, so no junk in the fuel lines, ever. The interior is super nice - and about 40 years old. It's the original type deep pebble grain in a great dark brown color that goes well with the exterior color. The upholstery is all in super nice condition, and the wraps on the seat back were done very well. It's very comfy for driving too. The floor boards are very nicely done wood, and only wood where it was originally from the factory. All the wood structure of the seats and seat back etc is super nice. I added an early type carpet with binding on the sides for the floor, and in the trunk for a nicer look - as opposed to the rubber mats - these easily remove, and a rubber mat would be easy to pop back in, I prefer the finished look of carpet personally. Headlights are vintage Guide 903-J's, and are super nice. I custom made the headlight bar, and did custom made front and rear spreader bars. Tailight is the original 'DuoLite' drum style that the early A's ran. They had a specific bracket that mounts the light to the body, so left it like that. The license plate and 'club' plaques don't come with the car. The wiper is a manual type, and I do mean manual, but it is legal, and is what the car came with. The windshield is nice - no cracks or chips. We pie cut aftermarket windshield stanchions to lean the windshield back. I kept the stock ones, and you can have them if you want them. The body is all steel and super nice. No rust, no rot - and I mean no rust bubbles, no perfs, no rust period - it's not had rust repairs anywhere that I can see - and the only replacment panels were the rear inner fenders - they were either trimmed at one time, or cut out, but they have both been replaced, most likely at the time of restoration. The paint is almost 40 years old, and really nice for the age. It is a single stage, and most likely was done in laquer. All the sheet metal is really nice, and pretty darned straight. Doors shut nice, and it's solid and tight - they have that 'just right' sound when you shut them. The paint is actually a two tone - and is a blue and a greenish blue. You have to look really close to notice that - you can see the two colors best in the close-up of the dash. The floors are all nice, and original metal. No signs of rust in them. Subrails are in place. The rear fenderwells have been replaced. I think that the car was a channeled hot rod at one time (maybe the 40s'50's) and the fenderwells cut out, and it either had exhaust or tailights in the rear panel - I don't know this for sure, but that's my conclusion - this roadster has had a pretty interesting life, if only it could talk - maybe it saw time on the lakes way back when, who knows. The nickel is all in decent shape, and aged nicely for a just right patina. A vintage Silvertown Safety League ornament resides in the 'grille' area, and has for nearly 40 years, though the original one went away - this was a tough one to figure out and then find! This is a well thought out and executed car, not just tossed together. This car has not been detailed, or fluffed for these pictures - it's just how it's kept, all the time, and all I did was dust it off. I could have detailed the chassis better when the car was built, as it's all painted, and clean underneath the near 40 years of grime, but I wanted to leave it that way to emphasize 'the look' of a genuine lakes racer, as it could have been back in 'the day'. The first trip out with the car I went to a Goodguys show in Puyallup Washington - the car got a pick out of about 2700 cars, and was pictured in the Gazette from that event. Kirk the editor of the Gazette also used many detail pics of the car through the event coverage in the magazine. I was blown away - I wasn't sure many people would 'get it', but they really did. It has won trophies in every show it's been in - and is always recieved well. It surprises me how well the car is accepted, even by younger kids that usually dig the ricers. It's definitely a one of a car Model A built from a Super rare early AR roadster. You will note that I have added a VIN plate (which Model A's don't usually have) that has the serial number on it. The title is clean and clear and in hand, with no brands or liens whatsoever. The car was built to drive, and enjoy, not for the floor of a car show, or museum. Is it the cheapest you will find? No. Is it one of the most solid and the most honest old cars out there? Yes. It's not perfect, but is a super solid car, and is a wonderful driver - that will turn many heads, win trophies in local car shows, and give the new owner years of pride of ownership, thousands of thumbs up, and an enjoyment that nothing but a classic car will bring you. Own it, enjoy it - show it!! You'll never lose a penny if you treat it right - better than stocks and bonds (especially in today's market!), and more fun than money in the bank. Yes - opportunity IS knocking. As the soda ads used to say - It's the Real Thing!!! Thank you for looking and bidding!! Now for the nitty gritty: DO NOT BID IF YOU DO NOT INTEND TO PAY! Your bid is a contract and will be treated as such. If you have zero or negative feedback - please contact us first. We reserve the right to cancel bids to those who don't adhere to this request. If you need to get permission of any sort to buy - PLEASE GET IT FIRST. Excuses such as - I had the money now I dont, My spouse doesn't like the color, Gee I got sick as soon as I won the bid in the last 30 seconds of the auction, Oops I hit buy it now by mistake, My kid bid not me, My attorney says etc etc will not be tolerated or excused. PLEASE think before you biid! A 500.00 deposit is required within 72 hours of auction close, the balance in full due within 10 days of auction close. Paypal will not be accepted on any part of the auction unless agreed upon in advance, other than the deposit. Payment is by bank wire, cashiers check or cash. No overpayment scams please. If paid by any form of check - check will clear bank before vehicle leaves it's present location. Winning this auction does not qualify you to fly in and inspect the vehicle then decide IF you want it, or to renegotiate. The vehicle is available for inspection by appointment, so if you aren't sure - come see it first! Shipping is at the expense of the winning bidder. Vehicle must be picked up near McMinnvile, Oregon. This car is 82 or more years old, and so is sold as is. We have possession of and guarantee a free and clear title to the vehicle, with no brands or anything of that sort. Vehicle is titled in Oregon as a 1928 Ford RD, just as it should be. The license plate does not come with the car, nor does the HAMB tag, rabbits feet, and the club plaque on the front. Vehicle is sold as is with no warranty either expressed or implied. Vehicle is being purchased from the car's owner, not Houseofhotrod, and the bill of sale will be from them. We will help you arrange shipping any way we can, winning bidder pays for all shipping charges. We have recently been using a service called Uship at www.uship.com which is a spot where you can insert a shipping request, and shippers will bid to do your shipping - these shippers are rated on feedback just like eBay rates their sellers. Pretty cool. We will help with shipping any way we can. Sorry if we sound snotty here - we just want to communicate that we take our eBay seriously - all we really ask is that you do the same!! This makes it much easier for those of YOU who are also serious about bidding and buying. I have bought many vehicles here and understand your concerns - we've been there! PLEASE ask questions if you have them - I will do my best to answer honestly and quickly. Thank you for looking and bidding. Summary of My Selling Policies Payment Paypal ships fastest, but checks and money orders are acceptable also. Checks will be held until they clear. Certain auctions will not qualify for Paypal purchases, but will be noted as such. Large items will be paid with Cashiers checks or wire transfer. Again - this will be noted in auction. Fees No state taxes in Oregon. Your state may require a tax be paid, but I do not collect it. Never a handling fee unless stated. Shipping I ship worldwide unless stated in auction. some larger auctions will be restricted to US bidding ONLY due to the high instances of fraud, and non paying bidders. sorry not picking on you, just speaking from previous experience. I will ship via source that is most convenient for YOU. Method will most always be listed along with shipping costs - but they will vary based on location shipped to. Buyer pays all shipping unless otherwise noted! Delivery Items ship next day if possible, unless weekends/holidays prohibit. I will ship when the funds are available - items will be held in all cases until paid in full. Refunds & Returns Items are sold as is. I provide a good description in my listing of the condition of the item. If unsure - ask questions or if possible view the item on appointment basis, even if you plan to bid in the last minutes/seconds of the auction. I sell a lot of items for others, therefore do not own them. I will most always specify as such. Winning an auction does NOT qualify you to be able to fly in, and decide if you want item and or renegotiate. Contact Me The best contact method is via email, certain auctions will list my cell #. I answer emails within 24 hours, usually much faster, unless I am out of town which is rarely if I have an auction in progress. BID WITH CONFIDENCE Read my policies on my SquareTrade Seal stwithpolicies SquareTrade ©

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