1977 Porsche 911

Coupe

6 - Cyl.

Manual

91117201603

Gasoline

1977 Porsche 911S, VIN #91117201603, 01/77, 61,500 miles. Please take a good look at this beautiful classic 1977 Porsche 911S. As you look around the internet you will not find a better deal for your money. I drive this vehicle to many car shows and weekly drive ins, and this car gets the serious looks. I also attend the monthly Houston Coffee and Cars get togethers. This car definitely holds its own with the looks of other Porsche, Ferrari, Lamborghini, American classics, and other European classics worth many times it's value. The car was recently photographed by Houston’s best Porsche dealership. This summer the car took second place in two major regional car shows in the Houston area. It’s also a great driver - I feel comfortable driving it a couple hundred miles at a time, and I’ve done so many times driving to various car shows and rod runs throughout central and south Texas. Guards Red paint with Tan interior. Very desirable combination. The car really stands out. Fiberglass RSR front and rear bumpers – very well installed, very tight, perfect color match with perfect rubber seals in-between panels. Fiberglass RS Ducktail with rubber tie-downs – perfect paint match inside lid and out. 2009 Brand new paint, clear-coated, perfectly buffed out with about 30 coats of wax. 2008 and 2009 The interior is in excellent shape including carpet, seats, dash and instruments. The seats and dash have been re-upholstered. Brand new Coco mats – never been used. They accent the car great. New front windshield, excellent side and rear glass. Only driver side glass has a few slight scratches. 2.7 Liter flat-6 air-cooled with factory oil cooler. Runs fantastic, sounds fantastic, looks fantastic. MSD 6AL-2 digital ignition system with built-in rev limiter. Currently set at 6400 rpm. 2009 Pertronix II Dwell controlled electronic distributor pickup. 2010 Automatic dwell tuning over 5,000 rpm. Between the digital ignition and the distributor pickup, the motor actually tunes its self as the rpm goes from 3,000 up. I get excellent power and gas mileage on the highway and city. 8mm Clewett Engineering Ignition Wires, with new cap, rotor, spark plugs and valve cover dust caps. Intake and Exhaust valve adjustment in the past 2,500 miles. All oil lines are in excellent shape. Super clean motor from topside and underside. Any dry or cracked lines were replaced. Rebuilt motor with receipts, 1997 with proper reinforced head studs. About 10,000 miles on rebuilt motor. Many Porsche tech forums mention that rebuilt 2.7's are capable of lasting for an easy 100,000+ without any problems. Even at 6,000+ rpm the motor is smooth and very well balanced. New transmission mounts. 2010 New motor mounts. 2010 Converted to double 3-barrel downdraft Zenith/Solex carburetors – each Rebuilt with receipts. Recently installed (2010) brand new jets perfectly matched to these carbs. Not only does it run great, but it looks like the classic rally cars of the late 60’s and early 70’s. People just stop and stare at this engine. It has a true nastalgic appearance of a race Porsche engine. It’s super clean! My friends joke with me about needing to clean it, becuse they know they could eat off of it. Widened rear fenders to accommodate 18 rims with brand new wide speed rated tires. The fenders are 4.5 inches wider in the rear than stock. Fender work completed by a very high end shop specializing in exotic sport cars. Aluminum wheel spacers front and back appropriate for proper stance and apperance. Front fenders were also rolled in order to eliminate the posibility of any tire rubbing. This car has an excellent stance and holds the road very well. Looks great from the back, front and side too. 80% tread on front speed rated tires. Excellent wear all around. Rebuilt shift linkage from front stick shift to transmission. Upgraded 11-blade cooling fan, clear coated and kept perfectly clean. New rebuilt alternator, new belt, pulley and correct number of washers in installation. The car charges and cools perfect. Turbo finned valve covers downside. All new valve cover gaskets with new lock washer nuts - top and bottom. Two new drive axels with 4 brand new CV joints. Hardened steel fasteners at transmission housing and wheel hub. New front wheel bearings (inner and outer race). 2010 New clutch. 2008 Front and rear drilled brake rotors, Bi-metallic pads. 2010. Looks excellent, works excellent. Front aluminum upper torsion sway bar. 2009 High power halogen headlights. 2009 All lights, blinkers and running lights work. Dash too. Stainless steel collectors – Early 70's style. Highly desirable! Worth $1200. Eliminates the issue of heat build up in the exhuast system common to mid to late 70's Porsches. Secondary fuel pump (rear of car) w/ fuel pressure regulator and gauge. 2009 All dash gauges work including the clock that keeps perfect time – sometimes it slows a bit in weather under 40 degrees. Very nice Blaukpuant radio, with CD player. New sensors - oil pressure and oil temp. 2009 New cam chain oil lines. 2009 New front Boge strut inserts and new rear shocks. 2010 Bump steering kit. New rear torsion bar arm bushings. 2009 New European style tail lights and new rear Porsche reflector. 2009 Brand new rear tires. 2009 About 1,000 miles on the rears. 18 inch Porsche black powder coated rims (4) worth $1500. Oil change in the past 500 miles. This engine never overheats even in 100 degree humid weather. Highest oil temp ever read was 205. Normally reads 170-180 - even at 95+ degrees. Always garaged, very well taken care of. This car never sees rain. You will find zero rust. 1977 was the first year for Porsche to have the body galvanized. This car is not washed with water, it's dusted then dry washed similar to high dollar car show vehicles and then waxed. I clean it up every time it's taken out. It’s super clean inside and out. You will not find the presence of swirl marks or scratches in the paint due to normal hand washing and waxing. The Guards Red paint has a near perfect finish even at a few inches of distance, and under florescent light. Show car quality front to back. You will also find the finish to be super smooth. Rock solid body, drives straight as an arrow. To my knowledge never damaged. I know this car from front to back, and I am not aware of any body work to repaired damage. Sunroof works perfect to open and close. Battery cut-off switch installed for storage. Oil pan screen cleaned (When I opened, it was super clean! - but I wanted to make sure), new gaskets. 2010 FYI - Both the transmission and oil drain plugs have magnets in them. Both are super clean, free of even the slightest metal dust. Black headliner is in super shape. Included in sale are various books, framed dealer advertisements from 1977, framed Road and Track write ups and specs on the vehicle. These are nice for car shows, or even your garage wall. I have designed the R&T specs to fit in the pasanger window during car shows. Of course it’s a 33 year old car – so there are a few very minor things to be aware of: Car has to be stopped or rolling at one or two miles per hour in order to place into 1st gear. Read up – this is common in Porsche’s with the 915 tranny. Syncro might be starting to go. By recomondation, I am currently running SWEPCO 201 gear oil – and this has definitely made a significant difference. 2nd – 5th work great!! I can drive the car all day without grinding a gear 1st through 5th. I rebuilt the shift linkage to the transmission about a year ago, all new bushings and cups, however I may not have the coupling adjustment 100% correct. When I'm stoping I slip the transmission almost into 2nd, and then back up to 1st. This aligns the 1st gear syncro's 99% of the time. This was another recomondation from many Porsche tech forums. Front Control Arms might need new bushings. When driving into a driveway or different elevations – you can hear the torsion bars tapping on the inside of the control arms. Again - this is a common issue with 1970 - 1980 Porsches – just needs some new bushings. These can be picked up at Pelican Parts for under $50. If you look at Pelican parts tech articles – you will see that many people have successfully completed this job at home. If not your thing – take it to a good mechanic and have it fixed for a few hundred dollars. FYI - currently the car drives tight, turns on a dime and feels great – but I would replace these bushings over time. The engine has a tendency to lightly pop a little from rolling idle to acceleration. Not all the time. Excess fuel collects in the flat part of the exahust right below the cylinders, causing exhast pops. Another common Porsche issue (especially with the carbureted cars) I believe the left hand butterflies in the carbs need to be adjusted just a bit more. The engine idles perfect (900 to 1000 rpm), drives, accelerates, decelerates and cruises perfect – sounds like a healthy sewing machine. You won’t be dissatisfied with the performance. Watch the videos below. Pictures and Video: Note: The orange or light red color seen in these pictures is not present to the human eye – The red of this car is a very deep and rich Guards Red, but because of my digital camera and video camera – the orange and light reds become present. You can tell by the pictures which ones are truely correct and which ones are not. Attached are two videos: As you can see it drives and runs great. Clarity can be increased by changing the dpi from 240, 360 or 480. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1e0PibFj9eE&feature=related http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=66wiSEbv2DE I am a Porsche Club of America member. Sticker in the window. Thanks for looking over this really fun, excellent example of a classic mid 70’s Porsche. Please do not bid if you are not serious, and/or you don’t have the money. You must have a good ebay record. Notice I have a 100% buying and selling record. Shipping can be arranged – buyer pays for shipping. Follow all E-Bay rules and regulations when purchasing this vehicle. Winning bidder must pay within 3 days of auction end. A deposit of $500 must be made through paypal. I have the car for sale locally, so I have the right to remove it at anytime. If you are local feel free to come inspect the car in person and see how nice it truly is. I have very positive feedback, so bid with confidence. Thanks for looking, and Good Luck!!!! On Sep-02-10 at 21:53:18 PDT, seller added the following information: I’ve had many potential bidders ask me some good questions – a significant amount of people are looking at this great classic car and have also tagged it in their watch status. I hope these will answer your questions: Do you know its history before you bought it? Answer; originally purchased and titled in Colorado. Not sure – might have been a European delivery and then shipped to the USA? Then the guy who rebuilt the motor lived in California, I purchased it from a gentleman in Kansas who works on Porsches (911’s and 914’s). Four owners including myself. I have a clear title, car is registered and inspected. It titles as a classic, and can be insured as a classic. Any oil/other fluid drips, leaks, etc. Answer; It leaks about 1 or 2 drops of oil after I’ve driven it. Sometimes it does not drip at all. My floor drip pan is very clean. Other than that. No leaks. It does not burn oil. In one year I’ve changed the oil once, about 500 miles ago – but never had to add much, maybe a ½ a cup in 2500 to 3000 miles? It’s amazingly sealed and tight for a Porsche. Does the popping sound manifest itself at any time other than accelerating from idle in 1st? Answer; No. If you listen to the video – you will not recognize a single pop. It only pops when it’s in between gears, coasting – just as you press the gas to accelerate again. In fact only if you lightly accelerate. Good solid accelerations do not create any popping. I have the carbs a bit too rich/lean or the butterflies are just a bit to open or closed. It’s pretty minor. Is there damage to the torsion bar where the control arms have rubbed it? Answer; Not to my knowledge. I recently adjusted the front torsion bars – and they have nice solid spring to them. Just needs new rubber bushings. I could be the front ball joints – but I don’t think so. It feels tight to drive and corner. Pelican.com has a great tech site – and everything I’ve read leads to the bushings. I recommend replacing them – it will be worth your time/money. How long have you owned the car? Answer; One year and one month – I think I want to get back to an American classic V8 – perhaps a Corvette or another Mustang. I love this car – everyone thinks I’m crazy, just as they did with my previous classic car project. I’m moving on to the next project. I like doing this. Looks like you had several things done in 2010 - just wondering why you didn't have the popping and the bushing issues fixed then. Answer: Time and money – I’ve been working on as many things as I can. I don’t have a proper lift to do the front control arms right now. In fact, I just recently narrowed down the front end noise to this problem. I thought it was the struts/install so I pulled them – but they are fine. I only drive it 10 to 50 miles a week too. Not the highest priority. Who works on the car? Local shop? Answer: Me. I’ve owned a 1969 Ford Mustang Fastback a few years back, restored it to show quality – sold it, and moved on to this project. This car looked great when I purchased it, and the price was okay – but I’m pretty particular – and love bringing these cars to a “wow” status. I also like things to work and run correctly – so thus all the electronic and mechanical, and aesthetic work. I use to own a 1979 Porsche Targa back in the 90’s. Worked on that one too. I spend many hours, to include research on all my work. Lot’s or recourses. I also have good friends who are in the import part business and I’ve had some good advice from them too. It’s my hobby and I’m pretty good at it. Very rarely do I have someone work on my car – I’ve found typically – not always – I do better work, and it cost less. Who did the body work? Answer: A brand new shop around the corner from me who was just sold to a big national chain. The owner did very nice work. High end work for some of his high dollar clients. The original paint job was done in Kansas by the previous owner – not sure? It took some work to clean up the typical car wash damage, but I have this paint looking amazing. Honestly better than any new car on a lot. The pictures do not do it justice. You will love the paint, and the quality work. Every panel fits nicely. If you did not know any better – you would not believe it’s at 33 year old Porsche. Do you have the original books/owners manual? Answer: No books or manuals. I wish. It’s not that kind of car (high end collector). You can find good quality duplicates of these on ebay. Do you have receipts/records from the engine rebuild? Answer: Yes – I have tons of receipts going back to 1997. I have three owners worth of receipts. I will ship all of this with the car. Literally – a binders worth of receipts. The right tailpipe is touching the rear bumper (the left one looks like it has plenty of clearance). Is it? Answer: Not touching - I took off the RS pipes and sold them – to loud. Police officers gave me the eye. I reinstalled the original muffler, slightly modified for better, deeper sound. Nothing touches the bumper. There is no heat damage to any part of the bumper. The bumper is super clean, super shiny, super smooth. Keep in mind this has the best stainless steel heat collectors. These things cost some serious cash – and worth every penny. Originally fuel injected. Answer: Yes - The previous owner switched to carbs - Not sure why – but I love it! Its old school, cool to drive, cool to look at, and I like the way it looks and sounds. Makes the engine look clean and clutter free too. What was the original Buy It Now price? Answer; $25,500. It’s also listed locally. On Sep-06-10 at 06:56:16 PDT, seller added the following information: There are many dozens of you who are watching this classic Porsche to end in auction this evening! Special notice on the last day of bidding: I took the car out Saturday for my monthly 75 mile trip to Houston Coffee and Cars. A beautiful morning and the Porsche ran absolutely fabulous!! This car is so fun to drive, the sound it makes is like music, and hundreds of people looked her over. When I returned I carefully listened to the creaking in the front end, and now I’m not so sure it’s the control arm bushings. It might be as simple as the ball joints. They are older, they feel dry and there is no way to put grease in them. I want to make sure the buyer of this Porsche is super pleased. For the highest bidder/final buyer who takes this auction up over $18,000, I will throw in the following parts valued at $421. I will purchase/order the parts this week and place them in the car for your delivery, or mail them to you. Ball Joint (2), Control arm bushing (4), Sway bar bushing (2), and Tie Rod end (2). http://www.imcparts.net/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/FullImageView?imageName=91134104901.jpg http://www.imcparts.net/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/FullImageView?imageName=90134142102.jpg http://www.imcparts.net/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/FullImageView?imageName=91134732204.jpg http://www.imcparts.net/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/FullImageView?imageName=91134379203.jpg Don't miss out on this great car and good luck!